August 02, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather was fair and wind from
N. W. finding that the river still boar to the south I determined to pass it if
possible to shorten our rout this we effected about five miles above our camp of
last evening by wading it. [Lewis crossed the Jefferson River somewhere between
the present towns of Cardwell and Whitehall, MT.] found the current very
rappid about 90 yards wide and waist deep this is the first time that I ever dared
to make the attempt to wade the river, tho' there are many places between this and the
three forks where I presume it might be attempted with equal success. the valley
though which our rout of this [day] lay and through which the river winds
it's meandering course is a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that on the
verge of the river. the land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a black or dark
yellow loam, [The bottomlands, being well watered, produce a soil with a fairly
well-developed humus horizon here. The uplands, being drier, develop a thin soil having a
yellow or buff color.] and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2 feet high.
the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the bases of two ranges
of mountains which ly parallel to the river and which terminate <it's> the width of
the vally. the tops of these mountains were yet partially covered with snow while we
in the valley. were suffocated nearly with the intense heat of the midday sun. the
nights are so could that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. we
found a great courants, two kinds of which were red, others yellow deep purple and black,
also black goosburies and service buries now ripe and in full perfection, we feasted
suptuously on our wild fruit particularly the yellow courant and the deep purple
servicebury which I found to be excellent the courrant grows very much like the red
currant common to the gardens in the atlantic states tho' the leaf is somewhat different
and the growth taller. the service burry grows on a smaller bush and differs from
ours only in colour and the superior excellence of it's flavor and size, it is of a deep
purple. [The two kinds of red currants are problematic since there is only one
species of red-fruited, unarmed, currant which grows in the area, Squaw, or Western Red,
Currant, Ribes cereum inebrians. The yellow, deep purple currant refers to Golden
Currant, R. aureum, with its yellow and purple fruits in the same populaltion as
described earlier. The black Currant is possibly R. americanum, which is also
known from the same area. The Red Currant of Eastern gardens is R. rubrium. The
Serviceberry is Amelanchier alnifolia.] this day we saw an
abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number of the tracks of Elk; of the
former we killed two. we continued our rout along this valley which is from six to
eight Miles wide untill sun set when we encamped for the night on the river bank having
traveled about 24 miles. [In the vicinity of Waterloo, MT.] I feel
myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition and <have> do not <but little>
doubt <but I> being able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.
August 02, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the [day] was fair and
wind from N.W. finding hat the river still boar to the South I determined to pass it
if possible in order to shorten our rout; this we effected by wading the river about 5
miles above our encampment of the last evening. we found the current very rapid
waist deep and about 90 yd. wide bottom smooth pebble with a small mixture of course
gravel. this is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho' there are
many places between this and the forks where I presume it might be attempted with equal
success. The vally allong whch we passed today, and through which the river winds it's
meandering course is from 6 to 8 miles wide and consists of a beautifull level plain with
but little timber and that confined to the verge of the river; the land is tolerably
fertile, and is either black or a dark yellow loam, covered with grass from 9 inches to 2
feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the bases of
two ranges of high mountains, which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of
the plalins. the tips of these mountains are yet covered partially with snow, while
we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the intense heat of the midday sun; the nights
are so cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. soon
after passing the river this morning Sergt. Gass lost my tommahawk in the thick brush and
we were unable to find it, I regret the loss of this usefull implement, however accedents
will happen in the best families, and I consoled myself with the recollection that it was
not the only one we had with us. the bones of the buffaloe and their excrement of an
old date are to be met with in every part of this valley but we have long since lost all
hope of meting with that animal in these mountains. we met with great quantities of
currants today, two species of which were red, others yellow, deep perple and black; also
black goosberies and serviceberies now ripe and in great perfection. we feasted
sumptuously on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow currant and the deep perple
serviceberries, which I found to be excellent. the serviceberry grows on a small
bush and differs from ours only in colour size and superior excellence of it's flavour.
it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way we saw an abundance of deer Antelopes,
of the former we killed 2. we also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear. no recent
appearance of Indians. the Indians in this part of the country appear to construct
their lodges with the willow boughs and brush; they are small of a conic figure and have a
small aperture on one side through which they enter. we continued our rout up this
valley on the Lard. side of the river untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the
Lard. bank of the river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a good
stock of venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel myself perfectly recovered
of my indisposition, and do not doubt being able to pursue my rout tomorrow with the same
comfort I ahve done today.-- we saw some very large beaver dams today in the bottoms
of the river several of which wer five feet high and overflowed several acres of land;
these dams are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely interwoven that
they resist the water perfectly. the base of this work is thick and rises nearly
perpendicularly on the lower side while the upper side or that within the dam is gently
sloped. the brush appear to be laid in no regular order yet acquires a strength by
the irrecularity with which they are placed by the beavor that it would puzzle the
enginuity of man to give them.
Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity of the current
was such that his progress was slow, in short it required the utmost exertion of the men
to get on, nor could they resist this current by any other means than that of the cord and
pole. in the course of the day they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, [Prairie
Dogs, Cynomys ludovicianus.] saw a number of beaver dams and the
inhabitants of them, many young ducks both of the Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing
duck, gees, several rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk; [The
fishing duck is either the female Red-Breasted Merganser, Mergus serrator, or the
female Common Merganser, M. merganser. The black woodpecker is Lewis's
Woodpecker, Melanerpes lewis. See descriptions at July 20, 1805 and May 27,
1806.] they found the river much crouded with islands both large and small
and passed a small creek on Stard. side which we call birth Creek. [Named
after Clark's 35th. birthday, on August 1: Later known as Whitetail Creek which passes the
town of Whitehall, MT.] Capt. Clark discovers a tumor rising on the inner side of
his ankle this evening which was painfull to him. they incamped in a level bottom on
the Lard. Side.-- [A little below Big Pipestone (Panther) Creek.]
Courses and distances travelled by Capt. Clark August 2nd 1805.
| S. 80o W. |
3/4 |
to a Stard. bend |
| S. 30o W. |
1/4 |
to a Lard. bend |
| West-- |
1/4 |
to a bayou in the Lard. bend |
| North-- |
1/2 |
to a Stard. bend passing a riffle and 2 small Islds. |
| S. 30o W. |
3/4 |
to a Lard. bend passing an Island |
| N. 45o W. |
1/2 |
to a Stard. bend passing a Bayou Lard. side |
| West-- |
2 |
to an Island, passing two points on the Lard. side 2 Islands and
sevral bayous on Lard. the valley from 6 to 10 mls. wide |
| South-- |
1 1/8 |
to a Lard. bend |
| N. 45o W. |
1/4 |
to a Stard. bend being the Lard. side of an Isld. |
| S. 40o W. |
1/8 |
along the Stard. bend of the Island. |
| S. 60o E. |
1/4 |
to a Lard. bend passing the upper point of the Island on the Stard. side. |
| S. 45o W. |
1/2 |
in the Lard. bend |
| N. 10o W. |
3/4 |
in the Stard. bend passing a bayou |
| N. 80o W. |
1/4 |
to a Stard. bend, being the Lard. side of an Island |
| S. 30o W. |
3/4 |
to a Lard. bend passing the Island. |
| North-- |
1/4 |
to a Stard. bend. |
| S. 45o W. |
1 |
to the mouths of three bayous in a Stard bend |
| S 30o E. |
1/2 |
to a Lard. bend |
| S. 50 W. |
1/8 |
in the Lard. bend |
| N. 20o W. |
1/2 |
to a bayou in a Stard. bend |
| S. 20o W. |
1 2 |
to a Lard. bend |
| N. 45o W. |
1/4 |
to a low bluff in a Stard. bend. |
| S. 45o W |
1/8 |
along the Lard. bend passing a bayou on Stard. side |
| S. 20o E. |
1/2 |
to a Lard. bend |
| S. 50o W. |
1/4 |
to the lower point of an Island |
| West-- |
1/4 |
to a Lard. bend at a bayou, passing a bayou on the Stard. side and the
Island. <to a bayou> |
| S. 60o E. |
1/2 |
to a Lard. bend passing an Island. |
| S. 45o W. |
1/4 |
to a bayou on the Stard. side in a bend. |
| South |
1/4 |
to a lard. bend. |
| S. 60o W. |
1/2 |
to a Stard. bend, at the entrance of a bayou, [Birth Cr.]
which is rapid and 30 yds. wide |
| S. 45o E. |
1/8 |
along the Stard. bend |
| East |
1/8 |
to a Lard. bend |
| South |
1/2 |
to the mouth of a bayou in a Stard. bend |
| S. 70o W. |
3/4 |
to a Stard. bend |
| South |
1/4 |
to a high bottom in a Stard. bend. |
| S. 70o E. |
1/2 |
to a Lard. bend, where they encamped for the night in a smooth plain. |
Miles |
17 |
|
August 02, 1805
William Clark
a fine day Set out early the river has much the Same kind of banks Chanel
current &c. as it had in the last vallie, I walked out this morning on Shore & Saw
Several rattle Snakes in the plain, the wind from the S W we proceeded on with
great dificuelty from the rapidity of the current & rapids, abt. 15 miles and Encaped
on the Lard Side, saw a large Gangue of Elk at Sunset to the S W. passed a Small
Creek on the Stard Side [ML?: called birth Creek] and maney
large and Small Islands, Saw a number of young Ducks as we have also Seen everry Day, Some
geese-- I saw a Black woodpeckers-- I have either got my foot bitten by Some
Poisonous insect or a tumer is riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is painfull
August 02, 1805
John Ordway
a fine pleasant morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on. The River is now
Small crooked Shallow and rapid. passed bottoms covered with cotton Timber. Saw
abundance of beaver lodges & sign Some trees newly cut down by them. Saw
pond where they damed up the water one dam above another which is curious to behold.
passed a high bank in which was villages of bank Swallows passed large
beautiful bottom praries on each Side and botoms of timber &C. Saw Several old Indian
Camps on S. Side. Some of the high hills look black with pine timber and Solid
rocks&C. the day warm. we proceeded on. passed a nomber of Islands,
and bottoms covd. with cotton & birch timber. passed Smooth prarie. Saw Several
grey Eagles &C [Golden Eagle, Aquila chrysaetos]. we
Came 14 3/4 miles to day and Camped [Below Big Pipestone Creek, the party's
Panther Creek] on the edge of a Smooth plain on L. Side. Saw a gang of Elk back
under the hills the country in general back from the river is broken and
mountaineous.--
August 02, 1805
Patrick Gass
The morning was fine and we went on at sunrise, proceeded 4 or 5 miles and crossed the
river. In the middle of the day it was very warm in the valley, and at night very cold; so
much so that two blankets were scarce a sufficient covering. On each side of the valley
there is a high range of mountains, which run nearly parallel, with some spots of snow on
their tops. We killed a deer; went about 24 miles and encamped on the south side.
August 02, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a fine pleasant morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on.
the River is now Small crooked Shallow and rapid. passed bottoms of cotton
timber &c. Saw abundance of beaver Sign, trees a foot over which had newly
been cut down. Saw a pond which was made by the beaver damming up the water as in ma[n]y
places. passed a high bank in which was a vilalge of what is called bank
Swallows. high hills a little back from the River on each Side of the
River. considerable of pine on them, & covered with Short
grass. I have a pain in my Shoulder. ww proceeded on passed large
beautiful bottom prarie on each Side, & bottoms of timber, Saw a nomber of old Indian
Camps. the beaver houses are verry pleanty & ponds where they
resort. the day warm. we proceeded on passed a
nomber of Islands and bottoms. the River Shallow and rapid. passed Smoth
praries &c. Saw 2 grey Eagles [Golden Eagle, Aquila chrysaetos]
which had nests on the top of dry trees. Came 14 3/4 miles this day &
Camped [Below Big Pipestone Creek, the party's Panther Creek] on a Smoth
plain on L. Side. Saw a gang of Elk back under the hills. the
country back from the River is broken & Mountainous.
August 02, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning we had fine & pleasant weather, we set out early & proceeded on
our Voyage. We found the River getting very narrow, crooked, shallow &
rapid, We passed some rich bottoms of Cotton Timber, where we saw abundance of signs of
Beaver, & trees that had been cut down by these animals lately, many of which measur'd
a fot over, & a pond which was made by the beaver daming up the Water, We also passed
a bank which was very high, nd had a vast number of Swallows nests in them. This
bank lay a small distance back from the River, on each side of it, & had a consierable
quantity of Pine trees growing on them & short grass.-- We proceeded on and
passed a large beautiful bottom, and Priaries lying on both sides of the River, and some
large bottoms of timbered land. We saw in those bottoms, a number of Indian Camps
which appear'd to have been built some time, & plenty of Houses built by the beaver,
& a large ond where those animals resort to, We continued on, & saw a number of
small Islands & bottoms, The River getting more shallow; Some level Priaries lying on
both sides of the River.-- In the afternoon we saw 2 large Grey Eagles, whose nests
we saw on the tops of high Trees which were dead.-- We came 14 3/4 miles this day,
& encamped on a smooth plain lying on the South side of the River, where we saw a Gang
of Elk, back of our Camp under some hills.-- The Country this day lying back from
the River, is broken, and Mountaineous.--
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