August 04, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E. about 4 Miles when we passed a
bould runing creek about 12 yards wide the water could and remarkably clear, we then
changed our courseto S.E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar nearly E leaving
the valley which we had pursued for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3
miles we passed a handsome little river which passes through this valley; it is about 30
yaards wide affords a considerable quantity of water and I believe it may be navigated
some miles. I then changed my rout to S.W. passed a high plain which lyes between
the vallies and returned to the S. valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about
45 yards wide which I waideg and then continued my rout down to it's junction with the
river just mentioned, and from thence to the entrance of the creek which falls in about 2
miles below; still continuing my rout down this stream about three miles further and about
2 M. below our encampment of the last evening this river forms a junction with a
river 50 yards wide which comes from the N.W. and falling into the S. valley runs parralel
with the middle fork about 12 miles this is a bould rappid & clear stream it's
bed so broken and obstructed by gravel bars and Islands that it appeeared to me impossible
to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3ds as
much water as this rappid stream, it's cours so far as I dan observe it is about S. W. and
it appears to be navigable; its water is much warmer than that of the rappid fork and
somewhat turbid, from which I concluded that it had it's source at a greater distance in
the mountains and passed through an opener country than the other. [He had arrived
at the "Forks of the Jefferson." Ruby River (Lewis and Clark's Philanthropy
River) comes in from the east to join the Beaverhead (which they called the Jefferson),
forming the Jefferson River. A few miles downstream the Big Hole River (their Wisdom
River) joins the Jefferson from the west. Between the two junctions is the present town of
Twin Bridges, MT.] under this impression I wrote a note to Capt. Clark
recommending his taking the middle fork provided he should arrove at this place before my
return which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at
the forks of the river and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison we
killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard. side of the N.W. fork, determining
to pursue it untill 12 oC. the next day and then pass over to the middle fork and return
to their junction or untill I met Capt. Clark. we encamped this evening near the
point where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about 20
miles.-- [He camped on the Big Hole River, above the mouth of present Nez Perce
Creek.]
August 04, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E. by E. 4 M. when we pased a bold
runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water of which was clear and very cold. it appears to
be formed by four dranes from the snowey mountains to our left. after passing this
creek we changed our direction to S.E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar E
leaving the valley we had pursued for the two peceeding days. at the distance of 3
Ms. we passed a handsome little river which neanders through this valley; it is about 30
yds wide, affords a considerable quantity of water and appears as if it might be navigated
some miles. the currant is not rapid nor the water very clear; the banks are low and
the bed formed of stone and gravel. [The Ruby River has a steep gradient and has
its source in the mountains. It is joined by numerous short tributaries that carry
rocks down to it during their peak runoff. Like most streams in this area, the stream bed
is composed primarily of rounded stones of various size.] I now changed my
rout to S.W. passed a high plain which lies betwen the valleies and returned to the
South valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yds. wide gravley bottom
gentle currant waist deep and water of a whitish blue tinge. this stream we waded
and continued our rout down it to the entrance of the river just mentioned about 3/4 of a
mile. still continuing down we passed the entrance of the creek about 2 miles lower
down; and at the distance of three miles further arrived at it's junction with a river 50
yds. wide which Comes from the S.W. and falling into the South valley runs parallel with
the middle fork about 12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment
of the last evening was about 1 1/2 miles above the entrance of this large river on Stard.
this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so much broken and obstructed by
gravley bars and it's waters so much subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly
impossible to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3
rds as much water as this stream. it's course so far as I can observe it is about
S.W., and from the opening of the valley I beleive it still bears more to the West above
it may be safely navigated. it's water is much warmer then the rapid fork and
it's water more turbid; from which I conjecture that it has it's sources at a greater
distance in the mountains and passes through an opener country than the other. under
this impression I wrote a note to Capt Clark, recommending his taking the middle fork
provided he should arrive at this place before my return, which I expect will be the day
after tomorrow. this not I left on a pole at the forks of the river, and having
refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison which we killed this morning we
continued our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard. side, resolving to pursue this stream
untill noon tomorrow and then pass over to the middle fork and come down it to their
junction or untill I meet Capt Clark. I have seen no recent Indian sign in the
course of my rout as yet. Charbono complains much of his leg, and is the cause of
considerable detention to us. we encamped on the river bank near the place at which
it leaves the valley and enters the mountain having traveled about 23 miles. we saw
some Antelopes deer Crains, gees, and ducks of the two species common to this country.
the summer duck has ceased to appear, nor do I beleive it is an inhabitant of this
part of the country. the timber &c is as heretofore tho' there is more in this valley
on the rapid fork than we have seen in the sme extent on the river since we entered this
valley. the Indians appear on some parts of the river to have distroyed a great
proportion of the little timber which there is by seting fire to the bottoms. This
morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent two hunters ahead to kill some meat.
at 8 A.M. he arrived at my camp of the 2ed inst. where he breakfasted; here he
found a note which I had left for him at that place informing him of the occurences of my
rout &c. the river continued to be crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly.
these shoals or riffles succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred yards; at
those places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the stone there not being water
enough to float them, and betwen the riffles the current is so strong that they are
compelled to have cecourse to the cord; and being unable to walk on the shore for the
brush wade in the river along the shore and hawl them by the cord; this has increased the
pain and labour extreemly; their feet soon get tender and soar by wading and walking over
the stones. these are also so slipry that they frequently get severe falls. being
constantly wet soon makes them feble also. there hunters killed 2 deer today and some gees
and ducks wer killed by those who navigated the canoes. they saw deer antelopes
Crains beaver Otter &c. Capt. Clark's ancle became so painfull to him that he
was unable to walk.-- This evening they encamped on the Stard. side in a bottom of
cottonwood timber all much fatiegued. [Clark's camp was in the vicinity of present
Silver Star, MT.]
Courses and distances traveled by Capt. Clark and party. August 4th
1805.
| S. 45o W. |
5 |
on a direct course to a Lard. bend passing 4 bends on the Lard. side and
several bayous on either side. |
| S. 20o W. |
4 |
With the river to a bluff on the Lard. side, passing 3 bends on the Stard.
and two small Islands and 2 Bayous on Stard. side. |
| S. 60o W. |
6 |
with the river to an island, passing six circular bends on the Stard. and
several small bayous. encamped on stard. side in a bottom covered with cottonwood.-- |
Miles |
15 |
|
August 04, 1805
William Clark
a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and Brackfast at the Camp Capt Lewis
left yesterday morning, at this Camp he left a note informing that he discovered no fresh
Sign of Indians &c. The river continued to be crouded with Islands sholey rapid &
clear, I could not walk on Shore to day as my ankle was Sore from a tumer on that part.
the mothod we are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing & laborious in the
extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed each other every two or three
hundred yards and between the water rapid oblige to towe & walke on Stones the whole
day except when we have poleing men wet all day Sore feet &c. &c Murcury at
Sun rise 49 a. o,
August 04, 1805
John Ordway
a clear morning. we Set out at Sunrise one hunter Sent on a head to kill
some fresh meat for the party. proceeded on about 8 oC. A M. we found a note which
Capt. Lewis had left & his camp yesterday morning, letting us know that if he found no
Indians or fresh Sign by this evening he would return a fiew miles back & hunt till we
come up. we Saw a flock of goats in the high plains under the Mountains, on the top of
which is a little Snow & considerable of pine timber. the Mountains are makeing
near the River on each Side only a valley along the River which is pleasant, but the
Soil indifferent. we proceeded on came up with our hunter who killed 2 deer
the rapids continue. we have hard halling over them with the chord, and where
the Shore will not admit we have to waid in the water. Some of the Mountains near the
River has been burned by the natives Some time ago. the pine timber killed.
the cotten timber in Some of the R. bottoms killd. & dry also. not So much
timber along the River as below. We proceeded on killed a goose & a
duck they are pleanty on the River. we Came 15 miles this day and Camped on S.
Side at a bottom covd. with dry trees red willows [Red Osier Dogwood, Cornus
sericea] & rose bush which are verry thick. beaver ponds &
Sign pleanty.--&C.
August 04, 1805
Patrick Gass
At sunrise we continued our march, in a fine morning; went about 6 miles when we came
to a fork of the river; crossed the south branch and from a high knob discovered that the
river had forked below us, as we could see the timber on the north branch about 6 or 7
miles from the south and west branches. We therefore crossed to the north branch, and
finding it not navigable for our canoes, went down to the confluence and left a note for
Capt. Clarke directing him to take the left hand branch. We them went up the north branch
about 10 miles and encamped on it.
August 04, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear morning. we Set out at Sunrise. a hunter Sent on a head
to kill Some fresh meat for us to eat. proceeded on abt. 8oC. A. m. we Came to
Capt. Lewis camp of the 2 utl. he left a note letting us know he left this
place yesterday morning, and ment to go on untill this evening, & of they found no
fresh Sign of Indian, they would return back a fiew miles & hunt untill we came up.
we Saw Several Elk in a plalin on L. Side. proceeded on
our hunters killed 2 deer. the rapids bad as usal. we
are obledged to use the towing lines where ever the Shore will admit. Some of
the Mountains near the River on L. S. has been burned by the natives Some time ago.
The timber killed. not So much timber on the River as below.
proceeded on killed a goose and a duck.
they are pleanty on the River. we Came 15 miles this day
and Camped [Near Silver Star] at a bottoms covered with dry timber and
wild rose bush which is verry thick on S. side. the beaver ponds and Sign
pleanty &c.
August 04, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning we had clear cool weather; we set out at sun rise, having sent oone of our
hunters to go on, a head of us, in order to procure some fresh meat for our party.
we proceeded on, and about 8 o'Clock A. M. we came to where Captain Lewis had encamped the
2nd instant. he left a note, wherein he informed us, that he had left this
place Yesterday morning, and that he meant to go on untill this evening, & if he or
his party found no fresh sign of Indians, that they would return back a few Miles and
hunt, untill we came up. We saw several Elk, in a plain on the South side of
the River, We proceeded on, the Rapids being bad as usual, and we are obliged to make use
of the Tow Ropes, wherever the Shore will admit, some of the Mountains on the South side
of the River has had the Grass burned off from them, & the Timber killed on
them.-- The timber is not so plenty here, as it is some distnace below.
We proceeded on and saw plenty of Ducks & Geese in the River.
Our hunters that went out this morning killed 2 deer, which we took on board.
We encamped in the Evening at a bottom covered with dry timber, and wild rose
bushes in great pleanty on the South side of the River, where we saw ponds made by the
beaver in great abundance.
|