October 17, 1805
William Clark
This morning after the Luner observations, the old chief came down, and several men
with dogs to sell & womin with fish &c. the Dogs we purchased the fish not
good.
I took 2 men and Set out in a Small Canoe with a view to go as high up the Columbia
river as the 1st forks which the Indians made Signs was but a Short distance, I set out at
2 oClock firs course was N. 83o W 6 miles to the lower point of a Island
on the lard. Side, passed an Island in the middle of the river at 5 miles, at the head of
which is a rapid not bad at this rapid 3 Lodges of mats on the lard emenc quantites
of dried fish, then West 4 miles to the Lower point of an Island on the Stard. Side, 2
lodges of Indians large and built of mats-- passed 3 verry large mat lodges at 2
mile on the Stard Side large Scaffols of fish drying at every lodge, and piles of Salmon
lying. the Squars engaged prepareing them for the Scaffol-- a Squar gave me a
dried Salmon from those lodes on the Island an Indian Showed me the mouth of the
river which falls in below a high hill on the Lard. N. 80o W. 8 miles from the
Island. [The Yakima River. "Tape-tett" on Clark's map, meeting the
Columbia at modern Richland, Washington. The name taptat refers to a Yakima village
on the Yakima River, near Prosser, Washington.] The river bending <Star>
Lard.-- This river is remarkably Clear and Crouded with Salmon in maney places, I
observe in assending great numbers of Salmon dead on the shores, floating on the
water and in the Bottom which can be seen at the debth of 20 feet. the cause of the
emence numbers of dead salmon I can't account for [This was the end of the annual
salmon migration up the rivers from the sea; the fish were dying after having laid and
fertilized their eggs. They were probably either coho (silver) salmon, Onorhynchus
kisutch, or sockeye (blue-backed) salmon, O. nerka both of which are fall
breeders.] So it is I must have seen 3 or 400 dead and maney living the
Indians, I believe make us[e] of the [illegible, crossed out]
fish which is not long dead as, I Struck one nearly dead and left him floating, Some
Indians in a canoe behind took the fish on board his canoe
The bottoms on the <west> South Side as high as the Tarcouche tesse [See
September 10, 1805.] is from 1 to 2 miles wide, back of the bottoms rises to
hilly countrey, the Plain is low on the North & Easte for a great distance no
wood to be Seen in any direction.
The Tarcouche tesse bears South of West, the Columbia N W above range of hills on the
West Parrelel a range of mountains to the East which appears to run nearly North
& South distance not more than 50 miles-- [The Horse Heaven Hills to the west
and the Blue Mountains to the east. See October 15, 1805.] I returned to
the point at Dusk followed by three canoes of Indians 20 in number-- I killed a Fowl
of the Pheasent kind as large as a <Small> turkey. [The first specimen of
Sage Grouse, a species new to science which they had seen earlier (June 5 and August 12,
1805), which Lewis describes more fully on March 2, 1806.] The length from
his Beeck to the end of its tail 2 feet 6 3/4 Inches, from the extremity of its wings
across 3 feet 6 Inches. the tail feathers 13 Inches long, feeds on grass hoppers,
and the Seed of wild Isoop [Big Sagebrush]
Those Indians are orderly, badly dressed in the Same fashions of those above except the
women who wore Short Shirts and a flap over them 22 Fishing houses of Mats robes of
Deer, Goat & Beaver.
October 17, 1805
William Clark
A fair morning made the above observations during which time the principal Chief
came down with Several of his principal men and Smoked with us. Several men and
woman offered Dogs and fish to Sell, we purchased all the dogs we could, the fish being
out of Season and dieing in great numbers in the river, we did not think proper to use
them, Send out Hunters to Shute the Prarie Cock a large fowl which I have only Seen on
this river; Several of which I have killed, they are the Size of a Small turkey, of the
pheasant kind, one I killed on the water edge to day measured from the Beek to the end of
the toe 2 feet 6 & 3/4 Inches; from the extremities of its wings 3 feet 6 inches; the
tale feathers is 13 inches Long; they feed on grasshoppers and the Seed of the wild plant
which is also peculiar to this river and the upper aprts of the Missoury somewhat
remsembling the whins-- [Whins refers to gorse, furze, and other prickly, thorny
shrubs. It is the "wild Isoop" of the other entry (big sagebrush).
Since sagebrush was new to the Corp they used a variety of terms to identify it.]
Capt. Lewis took a vocabelary of the Language of those people who call themselves So
kulk, and also one of the language of a nation resideing on a Westerly fork of the
Columbia which mouthes a fiew miles above this place who Call themselves Chim na pum
Some fiew of this nation reside with the So kulks nation, Their language
differ but little from either the Sokulks or the Cho-pun-nish (or pierced nose )
nation which inhabit the Koskoskia river and Lewis's R below. ["Lewis's
R" appears to have replaced some erased words.]
I took two men in a Small Canoe and assended the Columbia river 10 miles to an Island
near the Stard. Shore on which two large Mat Lodges of Indians were drying Salmon, (as
they informed me by Signs for the purpose of food and fuel, & I do not think at all
improbable that those people make use of Dried fish as fuel,[)] The
number of dead Salmon on the Shores & floating in the river is incrediable to Say and
at this Season they have only to collect the fish Split them open and dry them on their
Scoffolds on which they have great numbers, how far they have to raft their timber they
make their Scaffolds of I could not learn; but there is no timber of any Sort except Small
willow bushes in Sight in any direction-- from this Island the natives showed me the
enterance of a large Westerly fork which they Call Tapetett at about 8 miles distant, the
evening being late I deturmined to return to the forks, at which place I reached at Dark.
from the point up the Columbia River is N. 83o W. 6 miles to the lower
point of an Island near the Lard. Side passed a Island in the middle of the river at
5 miles at the hea of which is a rapid, not dangerous on the Lard Side opposit to
this rapid is a fishing place 3 Mat Lodges, and great quants. of Salmon on Scaffolds
drying. Saw great numbers of Dead Salmon on the Shores and floating in the water,
great numbers of Indians on the banks viewing me and 18 canoes accompanied me from the
point-- The Waters of this river is Clear, and a Salmon may be Seen at the deabth of
15 or 20 feet. West 4 miles to the lower point of a large Island near the Stard.
Side at 2 Lodges, passed three large lodges on the Stard Side near which great number of
Salmon was drying on Scaffolds one of those Mat lodges I entered found it crouded
with men women and children and near the enterance of those houses I saw maney Squars
engaged Splitting and drying Salmon. I was furnished with a mat to Sit on, and one
man Set about prepareing me Something to eate, first he brought in a piece of a Drift log
of pine and with a wedge of the elks horn, and a malet of Stone curioesly Carved he Split
the log into Small pieces and Lay'd it open on the fire on which he put round Stones, a
woman handed him a basket of water and a large Salmon about half Dried, when the Stones
were hot he put them into the basket of water with the fish which was Soon Sufficently
boiled for use. it was then taken out put on a platter of rushes neetly made, and
Set before me they boiled a Salmon for each of the men with me, dureing those
preperations, I Smoked with those about me who Chose to Smoke which was but fiew, this
being a custom those people are but little accustomed to and only Smok thro form.
after eateing the boiled fish which was delicious, I Set out & halted or came too on
the Island at the two Lodges. Several fish was given to me, in return for Which I
gave Small pieces of ribbond from those Lodges the natives Showed me the mouth of Tap teel
River about 8 miles above on the west Side this western fork appers to beare nearly
West, The main Columbia river N W.-- a range of high land to the S W and parralal to
the river and at the distance of 2 miles on the Lard. Side, the countrey low on the Stard.
Side, and all coverd. with a weed or plant about 2 & three feet high and resembles the
whins. I can proceive a range of mountains to the East which appears to bare N.
& South distant about 50 or 60 miles. no wood to be Seen in any
derection-- On my return I was followd. by 3 canoes in which there was 20
Indians I shot a large Prairie Cock Several Grouse, Ducks and fish. on my
return found Great Numbr. of the nativs with Capt Lewis, men all employd in dressing ther
Skins mending their clothes and putting ther arms in the best order the latter being
always a matter of attention with us. The Dress of those natives differ but little
from those on the Koskoskia and Lewis's ["Lewis's" appears to replace
another erased word.] Rivers, except the women who dress verry different in as
much as those above ware long leather Shirts which highly ornimented with beeds Shells
&c. &c. and those on the main Columbia river only ware a truss or pece of leather
tied around them at their hips and drawn tite between ther legs and fastened before So as
barly to hide those parts which are So Sacredly hid and Scured by our women. Those
women are more inclined to Copulency than any we have yet Seen, with low Stature broad
faces, heads flatened <the eyes back> and the forward compressed so as to form a
Streight line from the nose to the Crown of the head, [These tribes placed infants
in a special cradleboard with an angled board compressing the forehead; in some cases a
tight headband was apparently used instead. Later, Clark sketched the headboard
apparatus and examples of the results. The effect on the soft skull of the child was the
shape noted by Clark, the head becoming pointed. Many whites applied the term
"flathead" to those who practiced head deformation, although the Indians
themselves apparently reserved the term for tribes in the interior who left their heads
naturally "flat" on top. The deformed head shape was considered a mark of
distinction, beauty, and superior status. Slaves were not allowed to deform the
heads of their children.] their eyes are of a Duskey black, their hair of a corse
black without orniments of any kind braded as above,
The orniments of each Sects are Similar, Such as large blue & white beeds, either
pendant from their ears or encircling their necks, or wrists & arms they also
ware bracelets of Brass, Coper & horn, and trinkets of Shells, fish bones and curious
feathers. Their garments Consists of a short Shirt of leather and a roabe of the
Skins of Deer or the Antilope but fiew of them ware Shirts all have Short robes.
Those people appears to live in a State of comparitive happiness: they take a greater
Share labor of the woman, than is common among Savage tribes, and as I am informd.
Content with one wife (as also those on the Ki moo e nim river) Those people
respect the aged with veneration, I observed an old woman in one of the Lodges which I
entered She was entirely blind as I was informed by Signs, had lived more than 100
winters, She occupied the best position in the house, and when She Spoke great attention
was paid to what She Said--. Those people as also those of the flat heads
which we had passed on the Koskoske and Lewis's [The replacement of
"Lewis's" for another erased word.] rivers are Subject to Sore eyes,
and many are blind of one and Some of both eyes. this misfortune must be owing to the
reflections of the Sun &c. on the waters in which they are continually fishing during
the Spring Summer & fall, & the Snows dureing the, winter Seasons, in this open
countrey where the eye has no rest. [These disorders may have been due to
trachoma, gonorrhea, and possibly glaucoma.] I have observed amongst those, as
well in all other tribes which I have passed on these waters who live on fish maney of
different sectes who have lost their teeth about middle age, Some have their teeth worn to
the gums, perticelar those of the upper jaw, and the tribes generally have had bad teeth
the cause of it I cannot account sand attachd. to the
roots & the method they have of useing the dried Salmon, which is mearly worming it
and eating the rine & scales with the flesh of the fish, no doubt contributes to it.
The Houses or Lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia river is of large mats made of
rushes, Those houses are from 15 to 60 feet in length generally of an Obling Squar form,
Suported by poles on forks in the iner Side, Six feet high, the top is covered also with
mats leaveing a Seperation in the whole length of about 12 or 15 inches wide, left for the
purpose of admitting light and for the Smok of the fire to pass which is made in the
middle of the house.-- The roughfs are nearly flat, which proves to me that rains
are not common in this open Countrey
Those people appeare of a mild disposition and friendly disposed-- They have in
their huts independant of their nets gigs & fishing tackling each bows &
large quivers of arrows on which they use flint Spikes. Theire ammusements are
Similar to those of the Missouri. they are not beggerley and receive what is given
them with much joy.
I saw but fiew horses they appeared make but little use of those animals
principally useing Canoes for their uses of procureing food &c.
October 17, 1805
Patrick Gass
We remained here all day for the purpose of taking an observation. We got a number of
dogs from the natives. Salmon are very plenty but poor and dying, and therefore not fit
for provisions. In the plains are a great many hares and a number of fowls, between the
size of a pheasant and turkey, called heath hens or grous. We killed a great many of these
fowls which are very good eating. The small river, which we called Flathead and afterwards
Clarke's river is a branch of the Great Columbia, and running a northwest course, falls
into it a considerable distance above this place; we therefore never passed the mouth of
that river.
The Columbia here is 860 yards wide, and the Ki-moo-ee-nem [Snake River]
(called Lewis's river from its junction with the Koos-Koos-ke) [Clearwater River]
475 yards. They are both very low at this place. Our course since we took water has been a
few degrees south of west: here the Columbia turns to the east of south.
October 17, 1805
John Ordway
a clear pleasant morning. we delay here this day for our officers to take
observations &C. the natives Stole a large ax from us last night. we
bought Several more dogs from them as we can git no other meat to eat, &C.
a number of the savages have red and blew cloth, but no buffalow Robes among
them. the River which we came down looses its name and is now Called Kimo e
num [Snake River] the North fork which is the largest is Called the
Calumbia River. Capt. Clark and 2 men went up it abt. three miles to the Indian
lodges. they Saw a great quantity of Sammon in the R. they giged a verry large
Sammon. they Saw a great number lay dead on the Shores which the Indians hade
giged. a great number of large fowls in the praries a Size alrger than haith [heath]
hens. [Sage grouse, Centrocercus urophasianus] Some
of the men killed Several of them. our officers took down Some of the language
found these to be of the flat head nation but another tribe. our
officers gave Some of the principal men meddles & flags and Some other Small articles
these Savages are verry poor but peacable. Some of them naked and Some have dressed Elk
and Deer Skins with the hair on. Some fiew rabit Skins also. they have a
number of horses among them. their grave yards are picketed in.
and the place about these forks is verry pleasant-- and Smooth &C--
October 17, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear pleasant morning. we delay here to day for our officers to take
observations &c. the natives Sold us a nomber more dogs and fresh Sammon &c.
these Savages have but verry fiew buffalow Robes, but are dressed in deer & Elk
Skins. the deer Skins are dressed with the hair on and Sowed together in robes.
Some of them have red and blew cloath and a nomber of articles which came from Some
white people. They have Some horses. they Sign to us that their is deer and
Elk below this. we Saw an emence Site of fowls on the plain considerable la[r]ger
than the prarie or haith hens. Some of the party went out and killed 3 of them.
we now call the north fork as it is the largest the Columbian River, and the other
which we came down loose it name from Columba. and we call after the Indian name
kimoo-e-nem-- the columbia River is more Smooth and the current gentle the natives
have a great nomber of canoes, and fishing camps along the Shores. Capt. Clark and
two men went up the Columb. River in a canoe 3 or 4 miles to the Indian lodges
they aw a vast quantitys of live Sammon in the River they giged one which was
verry larg they Saw a great nomber lay dead on Shores.[Either coho salmon, Oncorhynchus
kisutch, sockeye salmon, O. nerka. They were dying after having laid and
fertilized their eggs.] Some of the men killed Several more haith hens [Moulton
suggests sage grouse, Centrocercus urophasianus.] most as large as
Turkeys. <our officers gav the chiefs> of these bands <which is not
greatly> like <the first> flat <heads we Saw but we Still call them. So
we cannot> find out what nation these are as yet, but our officers gave the principal
men meddles a flag and Some other Small articles &c. we bought in all 26
dogs from the natives this day. these Savages are peaceable but verry poor.
they have nothing of any account to trade. a nomber of them have not any
thing to cover their nakedness, but the greater part of them have dressed deer & Elk
Some rabit Skins &c. to cover themselves. Saw a nomber of horses on
the opposite Shore. we have late[ly] Seen a nomber of their grave
yards pickeded in &c
October 17, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
We had a clear pleasant morning. Our officers delayed this day here, in order to
ascertain the latitude of this place &ca. The Natives sold us several more dogs
&ca They had very few buffalo robes among them, & were cloathed in der &
Elk skins dressed with the hair on & sewed together, & made into Robes. Some
of these Indians had Red & blue Cloth & a number of articles that must have been
procured from some Civilized <people> nation. They also had some horses.
They made signs to us that there is deer & Elk below this place.-- We saw
an immense quantity of Fowls in the plains, they were considerable larger than the Priari
or heath hen. Some of our party went out with Guns & killed 3 of them.--
Our officers were of the opinion that the River shold lose its name at this place and that
the North fork being the largest should be called the Columbia River, ["Columbia"
is written over an erasure that is illegible."] & the South fork of the
River (or rather River) whichc we had descended, should be named Lewis's River or after
the name it bears among the Indians which is Ki-o-me-num River.-- The water in
Columbia [The word "Columbia" is again written over an illegible
erasure."] River (or North fork) is much smoother & the current more
gentle here than the Ki-o-me-num or Lewis's River. The Columbia River only bearing
the name up the North Fork, of these two rivers.-- The natives here had a great
number of Canoes, & fish Camps, along the shores, of both these Rivers.--
Captain Clark took a party of our Men, and went up the Columbia [The word
"Columbia" is for the third time written over an illegible erasure.]
River in a Canoe, between 3 & 4 Miles, to where these Indians had their lodges.
They saw vast quantities of live Salmon in that River. They gigged one of them which
was very large, They also saw a great number of Salmon which lay dead on the shores, Some
of our Men went out into the plains, & killed <some> several more of the Priari
or heath hens, which were nearly as large as a hen Turkey,-- & good
eating. Our party were all at a loss to know what Nation of Indians the Band which
we are among belong to. Our officers gave the principal Men among them Medals, a
Flag, & some other presents.-- We purchased 26 dogs from these Indians to eat,
The Indians that are among us, are handsome, we made &l light brown color'd sett of
Men, and are very peacable. They have not any thing to Trade amongst them with us,
but Salmon, Dogs & a few Elk skins. We saw a number of horses on the opposite
shore, and a number of their Grave Yards, which were picketed in. Our Officers took
a Meridinal Oservation, & found the Forks of these Two Rivers at their Confluence to
lay in Latitude 46o 15' 13 7/10S North.
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