October 19, 1805
William Clark
The Great Chief 2d Chief and a Chief of a band below Came and Smoked with us we
gave a Meadal a String of Wampom & handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel--lep-pit
[Evidence suggests that Yelleppit was chief of the Walula (or Walla Walla) tribe,
although some evidence suggests that he was a Cayuse leader named Ollicutt known to fur
traders in the area a few years later. In the 1890s a Jefferson peace medal was discovered
on an island (possibly Goat Island) at the mouth of the Walla Walla River; it may be the
one given to Yelleppit at this time or on the party's return trip in 1806. It is
part of the Oregon Historical Society collection.] The 2d Chief we gave a String
of Wampom, his name is [blank] The 3d who lives below a String of
Wampom his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to Stay untill 12 we excused
our Selves and Set out at 9 oClock
Course
| S W. |
14 |
miles to a rock in a Lard. resembling a hat [Hat Rock sits prominently in
Hat Rock State Park] just below a rapid at the lower Point of an Island in the Midl: of
the river 7 Lodges and opposit the head of one on the Stard. Side 5 Lodges passed an
Island at 8 miles 6 miles long close to Lard Side no water on lard. a Small
one opsd. and at the lower point no water lard. passed an Isld. in middle at 8
miles on which 5 Indian Lodges, deserted at the end of this course a bad rockey
<rapid> place plenty of water rocks in the river.-- passed a Stard.
point at 4 miles country a little lower |
| S. 80o W. |
7 |
miles to a Point of rocks on the Stard. bend passed the island on
Std. Side at 1 mile passed a verry bad rapid Above the end of this Course 2 miles in
lenth with Several Small Islands in it & Banks of Mussle Shels in the rapids.
here the lower Countrey Commences-- Saw a high mountain covered with snow West
this we Suppose to be Mt. <Hood> St Helens [Probably not Mt. St.
Helens, which would not be visible from their location, but Mt. Adams, east of the main
Cascade Range in Washington.] in dist. |
| S. 70o W. |
12 |
Miles to a passed 20 Lodge of Indians Scattered allong the Stard.
Side drying fish & Pricley pare (to Burn in winter) I went on Shore in a Small Canoe a
head, landed at the first 5 Lodges, found the Indains much ritened, all got in to their
lodges and when I went in found Some hainging down their heads, Some Crying and others in
great agitation, I took all by the hand, and distributed a few Small articles which I
chanced to have in my Pockets and Smoked with them which expelled their fears, Soon after
the Canoes landed & we all Smoked and were friendly. I gave a String of Wampom
to the Principal man, we dined on dryed Salmon & Set out. I am confident that I
could have tomahawked every Indian here. The Language is the Sam as those above,
those Lodges can turn out <250> 350 men. [These people were Umatillas, or
perhaps Cayuses, living near present Plymouth, Washington, opposite the mouth of the
Umatilla River, which the captains did not notice on the outbound journey.]
I shot a Crain [Probably a Sandhill Crane, See July 21 & 29, 1805.] &
2 ducks and opposit to a Lodge on the Stard. Side, one mile below a rapid. a Single
Mountn. bears S. W. from the Muscle Shell rapid. |
| S. W. |
3 |
miles to a few <bushes> willow Trees on the Lard. Side below the
lower pt. of an Isd. Ld. opposit 24 Lodges of Indians Indians fishing. here we came
too and camped, 19 of them on the Stard. Side & 5 on an Island in the middle of the
river, about 100 Inds. come over Some brought wood and we gave Smoke to all which
they were pleased at |
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36 |
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P. Crusat played on the Violin which pleased and astonished those reches
who are badly clad, 3/4 with robes not half large enough to cover them, they are homeley
high Cheeks, and but fiew orniments. I suped on the Crane which I killed to day.
October 19, 1805
William Clark
The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs, and a Chief of Band below
presented themselves to us verry early this morning. we Smokedd with them, enformed
them as we had all others above as well as we Could by Signs of our friendly intentions
towards our red children Perticular those who opened their ears to our Councils.
we gave a Medal, a Handercheif & a String of Wompom to Yelleppit and a
String of wompom to each of the others Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian,
with a dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches in high and well
perpotiond. he requested us to delay untill the Middle of the day, that his people
might Come down and See us, we excused our Selves and promised to Stay with him one or 2
days on our return which appeared to Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians Came down in
Canoes to view us before we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. we proceeded
on passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles in lenth opposit to the
lower point of which two Isds. are situated on one of which five Lodges <of Indians>
vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper point of this Island Swift water.
a Short distance below passed two Islands; one near the middle of the river on
which is Seven lodges of Indians drying fish, [The six-mile-long island may be
Techumtas Island, while that referred to as having five lodges may be later Sheep Island.]
at our approach they hid themselves in their Lodges and not one was to be seen untill we
pased, they then Came out in greater numbers than is common in Lodges of their Size, it is
probable that, the inhabitants of the 5 Lodges above had in a fright left their lodges and
decended to this place to defend them Selves if attackted there being a bad rapid opposit
the Island thro which we had to pass prevented our landing on this Island and pasifying
those people, about four miles below this fritened Island we arrived at the head of a
verry bad rapid, [In the area of presend day McNary Dam. "Muscle Shell
rapid" on Clark's map.] we came too on the lard Side to view the rapid
abefore we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared to be close under the oppd.
Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard
Side, with the 2 Chiefs the interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to
prcede down on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles in length
I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high clift about 200 feet
above the water from the top of which is a leavel plain extending up the river and off for
a great extent, at this place the Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and
affords a pros[pect?] of the river and countrey below for great extent
both to the right and left; from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence hight
covered with Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by Vancouver, as Seen from
the mouth of the Columbia River, from the Course which it bears which is West I
take it to be Mt. St. Helens, destant <about 120> 156 miles arange of
mountains in the Derection crossing, a conacal mountain S. W. toped with Snow This
rapid I observed as I passed opposit to it to be verry bad interseped with high rock and
Small rockey Islands, here I observed banks of Muscle Shells banked up in the river in
Several places, I Delayed at the foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the Canoes which I
could See met with much dificuelty in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side
Maney places the men were obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over
Sholes-- while Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain which was
flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of Lodges on the opposit
Side at Some distance below and Several Indians on the opposit bank passing up to where
Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes, others I Saw on a knob nearly opposit to me at which
place they delayed but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they
could run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of us, I deturmined to
take the little Canoe which was with me and proceed with the three men in it to the
Lodges, on my approach not one person was to be Seen except three men off in the plains,
and they Sheared off as I aproached near the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which
was at no great distance from each other, Saw no person the enteranc or Dores
of the Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of which they were built a mat, I
approached one with a pipe in my hand entered a lodge which was the nearest to me found 32
persons men, women and a few children Setting permiscuisly in the Lodg, in the greatest
agutation, Some crying and ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave
my hand to them all and made Signs of my friendly dispotion and offered the men my pipe to
Smok and distributed a fiew Small artiles which I had in my pockets,--this measure
passified those distressed people verry much, I then Sent one man into each lodge and
entered a Second myself the inhabitants of which I found more fritened than those of the
first lodge I destributed Sundrey Small articles amongst them, and Smoked with the
men, I then entered the third 4th & fifth Lodge which I found Somewhat passified, the
three men, Drewer Jo. & R. fields, haveing useed everey means in their power to
convince them of our friendly disposition to them, I then <formd> Set my Self on a
rock and made Signs to the men to come and Smoke with me not one Come out untill the
Canoes arrived with <Some five Came out of each Lodge and Set by me and Smoked
Capt Lewis at> the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud, and as was their Custom to all we
had passed the Indians came out & Set by me and Smoked They said we came from
the clouds &c. &c. <which the> and were not men &c &c. this time
Capt. Lewis came down with the Canoes rear in which the Indian, as Soon as they Saw the
Squar wife of the interperter <wife> they pointed to her and informed those who
continued yet in the Same position I first found them, they imediately all came out and
appeared to assume new life, the sight of This Indian woman, wife to one of our interprs.
confirmed those people of our friendly intentions, as no woman ever accompanies a war
party of Indians in this quarter-- Capt Lewis joined us and we Smoked with those
people in the greatest friendship, dureing which time one of our Old Chiefs informed them
who we were from whence we Came and where we were going giveing them a friendly account of
us, those people do not Speak prosisely the Same language of those above but understand
them, I Saw Several Horses and persons on hors back in the plains maney of the men womin
and children Came up from the Lodges below; all of them appeared pleased to See us, we
traded some fiew articles for fish and berries, Dined, and proceeded on passed a
Smallrapid and 15 Lodges below the five, and Encamped below an Island Close under the Lard
Side, [Possibly between Irrigon and Boardman. The island could be Blalock Island.
There are several sites in this area of Plymouth, Washington, which are possible locations
for the numerous lodges noted by Clark.] nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island
near the middle of the river, and the Main Stard Shor. Soon after we landed which
was at a fiew willow trees about 100 Indians Came from the different Lodges, and a number
of them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked with all of them, and two of our Party
Peter Crusat & Gibson played on the violin which delighted them greatly, we
gave to the principal man a String of wompon treated them kindly for which they appeared
greatfull, This Tribe can raise about 350 men their Dress are Similar to those at
the fork except their robes are Smaller and do not reach lower than the waste and 3/4 of
them have scercely any robes at all, the women have only a Small pece of a robe which
Covers their Sholders neck and reaching down behind to their wastes, with a tite piece of
leather about the waste, the brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high
Cheeks flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they are all employed in fishing
and drying fish of which they have great quantites on their Scaffolds, their habits
customs &c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck that was the Crain afforded us a
good Supper. The Indians continued all night at our fires
this day we made 36 miles
October 19, 1805
Patrick Gass
The morning was clear and pleasant, with some white frost. A number of the natives came
to our camp, and our Commanding Officers presented one of them with a medal [Yellepit,
chief of the Walla Wallas] and other small articles. At 8 o'clock we proceeded
on; passed some islands and bad rapids, but no accident happened. We also passed a great
many Indian camps. In the whole country around there are only level plains, except a few
hills on some parts of the river. We went 36 miles and halted opposite a large Indian camp
[ probably Umatilla]; and about thirty-six canoe loads of them came over
to see us; some of whom remained all night; but we could not have much conversation with
them as we did not understand their language. They are clothed much in the same manner
with those at the forks above. The custom prevails among these Indians of burying all the
property of the deceased, with the body. Amongst these savages when any of them die, his
baskets, bags, clothing, horses and other property are all interred: even his canoe is
split into pieces and set up round his grave.
October 19, 1805
John Ordway
a clear cold morning. the natives brought us Some pounded Sammon.
about 7 oClock A M we Set out proceeded on passed high clifts of rocks on each
Side of the River. the natives are verry numrous. our officers
gave one [Yelleppit, chief of the Walula, Walla Walla, Indians] a meddle
and Some other small articles. this morning passd. Several Small
villages the Savages all hid themselves in their flag loges untill we passed
them. the Indians are numerous along the River. the villages near each
other and great quantitys of Sammon drying. we passed over Several rapids which are
common in this River. we discovred a verry high round mountain [Probably
Mt. Adams] a long distance down the River which appears to have Snow on the top
of it. we came 36 miles this day and Camped [Between Irrigon &
Boardman, Oregon] on the South Side an Indian village on the opposite
Shore a nomber of the natives came over the River in their Small canoes to see
us. when any of these Savages dye they bury them and all their property with them
and picket in their grave yard. even their canoes are put around them.--
October 19, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear cold morning. we took an eairly breakfast. the
Natives came to See us in their canoes. brought us Some fish which had been
roasted and pounded up fine and made up in balls, which eat verry well. about 7 oC.
A m. we Set out and proceeded on down the R. passed high clifts of rocks on each
Side passd. over Several rockey rapids. our officers gave one
[Yelleppit, chief of the Walula Indians.] of the Natives we left this morning a
meddel. we passed Several Islands on which was Indian fishing Camps. the
natives all hid themselves in their flag lodges when they Saw us comming. the
Indians are numberous the camps near each other along the Shores the River
pleasant only at the rapid which are common we passd. over Several today but no
exident hapened. the Country around level plains except Some hills & clifts
along the Shores. we discovred a high hill or mountn [Clark saw Mt. Adams
this day. The previous day he noticed Mt. Hood.] a long distance down the River
which appears to have Snow on it we <came> went 36 miles this day and Camped [Possibly
on Blalock Island, between Irrogon and Boardman.] opposite a large Indian Camp on
the South side. a great nomber of the natives [Most likely Umatilla or
Cayuse Indians living in the vicinity of Plymouth.] come over in their canos to
see us. when any of these natives die they deposite all their property with them.
we Saw one of their grave yards do day, even a canoe was Split up peaces and Set up
around the yard Several other art. also.
October 19, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning was clear & cold, We took an early breakfast, the Natives still
continuing to visit us, bringing with them some Salmon, which they had roasted &
poundee fine & made up into Balls, which eat very well; About 7 oClock A.M. We
proceeded on down the Columbia River, We passed by Clifts of rocks, lying on each side of
the River, & also rockey rapids. We passed by several Islands, on which were
Indian fishing Camps. The natives all hid themselves (on these Islands on seeing
us,) in their Flag lodges. We now begin to find the Indians very numerous, and their
Camps lay near each other along the Shores on both sides of the River, We found the day
pleasant & the Navigation of the River easy, excepting at the Rapids several of which
we passed over this day, without any accident happening.--
The Country as we passed along is level plains, and along some part of the Shores are
some hills & Clifts. We discovered a high hill or mountain laying a long
distance down the River which appears to hav Snow on it.-- We came 36 Miles this
day, & encamped opposite to a large Indian Camp, which lay on the South side of the
River. A number of the Natives came over to see us, & behaved very friendly.--
These Indians have a custom among them, that when any of them die, they deposit all
their property with them.-- We saw one of their grave Yards this day, & even to
a canoe, that belonged to the deceased person; was split up into pieces, and set up around
the grave Yard
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