October 21, 1805
William Clark
a verry Cold morning we Set out early wind from the S W. we Could not
Cook brakfast before we embarked as usial for the want of wood or Something to burn.--
| South |
3 |
miles to a Lard Bend |
| S 55o W. |
17 |
miles to a Lard Bend below a bad rapid high ruged rock Passed a Small
Island at 2 1/2 miles one at 4 miles, in th middle of the river, at Smome Swift water
an Indn Camp of 8 Lodges on the Std. Side opsd. th Lower point where we Brackfast,
and bought Some fine fish & Pounded rotes. people well disposed passed a
rapid at 10 miles. Rocks out in the water passed a Stard. point & a Strd. point
at 15 [miles] passed 5 Lodges of Indians, & 2 Lodges Some distance above on
Std. |
| N. 45o W. |
4 |
miles to a Stard. bend passd. the lower pt. of the isd. at 1 mile
and 2 Lodges of fishers below on the Stard Side, the rocks on th Lard. appear as if Sliped
from the Clifts under which they are passed emence rocks in differt. parts of the
river which were large and too noumerous to notice. Fowl of all kinds more plentiful than
above passed a verry bad rapid at 2 miles, this rapid is Crouded with Islands of bad
rocks dificuelt & crooked passage 2 Lodges of Indains below on Std. Side.
I Saw Some fiew Small Pine on the tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollers |
| S. 60o W. |
5 |
miles to the Stard. Bend. passed maney ruged black rocks in
diffierent parts of the river, and a bad rapid at 2 miles & river narrow Several
Canoes loaded with Indians (Pierce noses) came to See us-- <To> at the expiration of
this course a river falls in on the Lard. 40 yds. wide Islands of rocks in every direction
in the river & rapids |
| S. 53o W. |
13 |
miles to upr. point of a rocky Island 80 feet high a rapid above
passed the little river rapid thro narrow channels between the rocks 4 Lodges
of Indians on the Stard. Side opposit, a round toped mountain imediately in front and is
the one we have been going towards & which bore S. W. from the 2d course below the
Forks-- passed the lower point of an Island on the Stard. at 2 miles landed at
5 Lodges of Pierced noses Indians at 4 miles where we encamped and purchased a little wood
to boil our Dogs & fish, those Indians are the <inhabitents> relations of the
falls below, fortunately for us the night was worm. |
|
42 |
|
22d Octr. Course Continued |
| [In Clarks journal there is the number "33" by the
total of "42" representing the actual miles traveled that day, that is, four
instead of thirteen on the last course.] |
fine water for 7 miles passed a rapid of rocks neaerly across
above which at 6 miles passed 6 Lodges Std., at 9 miles passed a Bad rapid,
& Lodges of Indians on Std. Side 20 piles [one word illegible] of
fish on an Island drying, Several Indains in Canoes fishing in Canos & gigs &c.
Collins made some excellent beer of the Pasheco quar mash bread of roots which
was verry good. obliged to purchase wood at a high rate. [Above this sentence in
Clarks journal is a sketch map showing the camp of October 21, 1805, and the return camp
of April 21, 1806 (misidentified as April 23). The entrances of the John Day and
Deschutes rivers are also shown, but the streams are not named.]
last night we could not collect more dry willows the only fuel, than was barely Suffi[ci]ent
to cook Supper, and not a sufficency to cook brackfast this morning,
October 21, 1805
William Clark
A verry cool mmorning wind from the S. W. we Set out verry early and proceeded
on, last night we could not Collect more dry willows the only fuel, than was barely
Suffient to cook Supper, and not a Sufficency to cook brackfast this morning, passd. a
Small Island at 5 1/2 miles a large one 8 miles in the middle of the river, Some rapid
water at the head and Eight Lodges of nativs opposit its Lower point on the Stard. Side,
we came too at those lodges, bought some wood and brackfast. Those people recived us
with great kindness, and examined us with much attention, their employments custom Dress
and appearance Similar to those above; Speak the Same language, [Referred to as
"Met-cow-wes" on Clark's map and in entries on the return journey on April 24,
1806, they may have been the Methows, although those spoke a Salishan language, not the
Shahaptian of the people upstream. They lived between the present towns of Rossevelt
and Blalock, Washington. The Shahaptian term mitxaw designates a
Salish-speaking group closely associated with the Columbia and Okanagan rivers.]
here we Saw two Scarlet and a blue cloth blanket, also a Salors Jacket The
Dress of the men of this tribe only a Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, and that of the
womn is a Short piece of Dressed Skin which fall from the neck So as to Civer the front of
the body as low as the waste, a Short robe, which is of one Deer or antilope Skin, and a
flap, around their waste and Drawn tite between their legs as before described, their
orniments are but fiew, and worn as those above.
we got from those people a fiew pounded rotes [roots] fish and Acorns
of the white oake, those Acorns they make use of as food, [raw & roasted] and
inform us they precure them of the nativs who live near the falls below which place they
all describe by the term Timm-- [The Chinookan term tmm is derived from
the Chinook jargon, meaning "(river) falls."] at 2 miles lower
passed a rapid, large rocks Stringing into the river of large Size, opposit to this rapid
on the Stard. Shore is Situated two Lodges of the nativs drying fish here
we halted a foew minits to examine the rapid before we entered it which was our constant
Custom, and at all that was verry dangerous put out all who Could not Swim to walk around,
after passing this rapid we proceeded on passed anoothe rapid at 5 miles lower down, above
this rapid on <the Stard. Side> five Lodges of Indians fish &c. [These
two groups of lodges are located near the mouth of present Rock Creek, shown entering from
the north in the upper right hand corner of Clark's map. This was the location of a
Umatilla village named k ami tp ("opening through the canyon where light
penetrates"). The location marked the downriver boundary of the Umatilla
Indians where over one hundred persons lived. It was a popular area because wood was
plentiful. Extensive archaeological work has been done on the opposite (Oregon ) shore in
this area.] above this rapid maney large rocks on each Side at Some distance from
Shore, one mile passed an Island Close to the Stard. Side, below which is two
Lodges of nativs, a little below is a bad rapid which is bad crouded with hugh rocks
S attered in every Direction which renders the pasage verry Difficuelt a little
above this rapid on the Lard. Side emence piles of rocks appears as if Sliped from Clifts
under which they lay, passed great numbers of rocks in every direction Scattered in the
river 5 Lodges a little below on the Stard. Side, and one lodge on an Island near
the Stard. Shore opposit to which is a verry bad rapid, thro which we found much
dificuelty in passing, the river is Crouded with rocks in every direction, after passing
this dificult rapid to the mouth of a Small river on the Larboaard Side 40 yards wide
descharges but little water at this time, and appears to take its Sourse in the Open
plains to the S. E. [The John Day River, Oregon. It is "River de
Page" and "River La Page" on Clark's map, after member Jean Baptiste
LePage.] from this place I proceved Some fiew Small pines on the tops of
the high hills and bushes in the hollars. imediately above & below this little
river comences a rapid which is crouded with large rocks in every direction, the pasage
both crooked and dificuelt, we halted at a Lodge to examine those noumerous Islands of
rock which apd. to extend maney miles below,--. great numbs. of Indians came in
Canoes to View us at this place, after passing this rapid which we accomplished without
loss; <we passed> winding through between the hugh rocks for about 2 miles--.
(from this rapid the Conocil mountain is S. W. which the Indians inform me is not
fare to the left of the great falls; this I call the Timm or falls mountain it is
high and the top is covered with Snow) [Mt. Hood; see October 18, 1805.]
imediately below the last rapids there is four Lodges of Indains on the Stard.
Side, proceeded on about two miles lower ande landed and encamped near five
Lodges of nativs, drying fish those are the relations of those at the Great
falls, they are pore and have but little wood which they bring up the river from the
falls as they Say, we purchased a little wood to cook our Dog meat and fish; those
people did not recive us at first with the same cordiality of those above, they appeare to
be the Same nation Speak the Same language with a little curruption of maney words
Dress and fish in the Same way, ["Wah-how-pum" on Clark's map.
A small Shahaptian-language group living near the mouth of Olive Creek in Klickitat
County, Washington.] all of whome have pierced noses and the men when Dressed
ware a long taper'd piece of Shell or beed put through the nose-- [The shell
belongs to a marine mollusk of the genus Dentaliium, resembling a miniature
elephant tusk, much used by tribes as far east as the Great Plains for decoration.]
this part of the river is furnished with fine Springs which either rise high up the
Sides of the hills or <out> on the bottom near the river and run into the river.
the hills are high and rugid a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on them either
Small pine or Scrubey white oke.
The probable reason of the Indians residing on the Stard. Side of this as well as the
waters of Lewis's River [The phrase "waters of Lewis's" appears to have
been substituted for some erased words.] is their fear of the Snake Indians
who reside, as they nativs Say on a great river to the South, [Possibly the
Deschutes River or John Day River; These "Snakes" are probably Northern
Paiutes.] and are at ware with those tribes, <our to> one of the Old Chiefs
who accompanies us pointed out a place on the lard. Side where they had a great battle,
not maney years ago, in which maney were killed on both Sides--, one of our party J.
Collins presented us with Some verry good beer made of the
Pa-shi-co-quar-mash bread, which bread is the remains of what was laid in as [a
part of our] Stores of Provisions, at the first flat heads or Cho-pun-nish Nation
at the head of the Kosskoske river which by being frequently wet molded &
sowered &c. we made 33 miles to day. [Camp was in the vicinity of the present
John Day Dam.]
October 21, 1805
Patrick Gass
We continued our voyage at an early hour, and had a fine morning. At 10, we came to the
lodges of some of the natives, and halted with them about 2 hours. Here we got some bread,
make of a small white root, which grows in this part of the country. We saw among them
some small robes made of skins of grey squirrels, some racoon skins, and acorns, which are
signs of a timbered country not far distant. Having proceeded on again, we passed several
more lodges of Indians; and through two very rocky rapid parts of the river with great
difficulty. We went 32 miles and encamped at some Indian lodges, where we procured wood
from the natives to cook with.
October 21, 1805
John Ordway
a clear cold morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on as usal we
then halted at an Indian village where we bought a little wood and cooked breakfast.
bought Some pounded Sammon from the natives, and Some white root cakes which is
verry good. we Saw among them a number of fisher and rackoon Skins. [Fisher,
Martes pennanti; Raccoon, Procyon lotor] Some otter Skins
also. these Savages gave us any thing we asked them for, by our giving them any
Small artidle as we pleased, as if they were in fear of us. we proceeded on passed
River hills and cliffs of rocks on each side. passed over a number of bad rockey
rapids where the River is nearly filled with high dark couloured rocks the water
divided in narrow deep channels, bad whorl pools. passed several Islands and fishing
camps. Saw a great quantity of pounded Sammon Stacked up on the Shores. we Saw a
fiew Scattering pine on the hills. we came about 32 miles this day and Camped [Near
John Day Dam] at some Indian lodges close under high clifts of rocks on the Stard
Side a handsome Spring flowed out of the clifts. these Savages have a fiew Elk
and Deer Skins dressed with the hair on which they wear for covering. they have also
a fiew blue cloth blankets &C--
October 21, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear cold morning. we Set out eairly and proceeded on as usal, untill about 8
oClock at which time we halted at an Indian Camp where we bought Some wood and cooked
breakfast. bought Some pounded fish from the Natives and Some roots bread which was made
up in cakes in form of ginger bread and eat verry well. Saw a nomber of Rackoon
Skins also otter and fisher Skins &c. [Raccon, Procyon lotor; River
Otter, and Fisher, Martes pennanti.] they have us any thing we
asked for by our giving a Small article we pleased. we proceeded on passed clifts of
rocks and River hills on each Side passed over Several verry bad rockey rapids,
where the River was nearly filled with high rocks of a dark coulour, and the water divided
in narrow deep channels, where we ran through verry fast high waves and whorl pools
below. passd. Several Islands and fishing Camps where the natives had a large
quantity of pounded fish the best of their Sammon pounded up and put up in small Stacks
along the Shore for winter, & cover them with Straw and pile the Stone around them.
the Solid clifts continue on each Side. Saw a little Scattering pine timber
on the hills on each Side of the River. Some places the rocks are high and Steep.
we went about 32 miles and Camped [Near John Day Dam] at Some
Indian Camps on the Stard. Side. a handsom Spring run from a clift of rocks near our
Camp. we bought Some wood from the Natives to cookwith these natives appeer to
be mostly covd. in deer and Elk Some rabit & Squerrel Skins. they have Some blew
Cloth blankets &. we passed a Small River [John Day River. It was named
"River La Page" by the party for member Jean Baptiste Lepage. This last sentence
appears to be squeezed in between entries.] which came in on the Lard. Side
October 21, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
A clear cold morning. We set out early, and proceeded on as usual, untill about 8
oClock A.M. when we halted at an Indian Camp, lying on the River side, & bought some
wood, with which we cooked breakfast, We also purchased from those Indians some punded
fish, and root bread, made up in the form of ginger bread, which eat very well. We
also saw among these Indians, Raccoon, Otter, fisher & a number of other kinds of
small Skins, These Indians behaved very kind to us, they gave us any article that we asked
for which they had among them, by our giving them any small article ever so trifling we
pleased; & seemed very well pleased with us. We proceeded on down the River,
& passed Clifts of rocks, & hills, which lay near the river on both sides of it.
We also passed over several very bad rockey rapids, where the River was nearly
filled with Rocks, which were high & of a dark Colour, & the Water divided into
narrow Channels. We ran with our Canoes through those Channels very fast, the Waves
at the place run high, & whirl pools lay below the Rocks, which made it extreamly
dangerous for us to pass.-- We continued on, and passed several Islands &
fishing Camps, where the natives had large Quantities of ounded fish. The Natives
dry & pound the best of their fish which they put up in small stacks, along the River
shores for winter, & cover them over with Straw and pile Stones up high round them.--
The Solid clifts of rocks continue along each side of the River. We saw some
scattering pine trees growing on the hills on both sides of the River, & the Rocks are
steep & high-- We passed a small River which lay on the South side of the River
which we called Baptiste River & We came about 32 Miles this day & encamped
near some Indian Camps, which were Inhabited by a number of Indians; lying on the North
side of the River. We found near to our Camp, a handsome spring of water which ran
from under some Clifts of rocks. We purchased from those Indians some wood to Cook
with. These Natives were chiefly <covered> Cloathed with deer & Elk skins,
which they dress into leather. They had also some Rabbit, & squirrel skins among
them.-- We also saw with them blue Cloth & blankets, Our Course continues nearly
West.--
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