October 23, 1805
William Clark
Took the Canoes over the Portage on the Lard. Side with much difficuelty, description
on another Paper [Possibly a reference to the entry in Codex H for this day.]
one Canoe got loose & cought by the Indians which we were obliged to pay. our
old Chiefs over herd the Indians from below say they would try to kill us &
informed us of it, we have all the arm examined and put in order, all th Inds leave us
early, Great numbers of flees on the Lard Side-- Shot a Sea Oter [The Sea
Otter, Enhydra lutris, never leaves salt water. They had evidently observed
the harbor seal, Phoca vitulina richardii, a species new to science. The captains
later corrected this error, See February 23, 1806.] which I did not get, Great
Numbers about those rapids we purchased 8 dogs, Small & fat for our party to
eate, the Indians not verry fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of
dogs for food Exchanged our Small canoe for a large & very new one built
for riding the waves obsd Merdn. altd. 66o 27' 30 Latd. prodsd. 45o
42' 57 3/10" North [The observation appears to be in Lewis's hand.]
October 23, 1805
William Clark
a fine morning, I with the greater part of the men Crossed in the Canoes to opposit
Side above the falls and hauled them across the portage of 457 yards which is on the Lard.
Side and certainly the best side to pass the canoes I then decended through a narrow
chanel of about 150 yards wide forming a kind of half circle in it course of a mile to a
pitch of 8 feet in which the chanel is divided by 2 large rocks at this place we
were obliged to let the Canoes down by Strong ropes of Elk Skin which we had for the
purpose, one Canoe in passing this place got loose by the Cords breaking, and was caught
by the Indians below. I accomplished this necessary business and landed Safe with
all the Canoes at our Camp below the falls by 3 oClock P. M. nearly covered with flees
which were So thick amongst the Straw and fish Skins at the upper part of the portage at
which place the nativs had been Camped not long Since; that every man of the party was
obliged to Strip naked dureing the time of takeing over the canoes, that they might have
an oppertunity of brushing the flees of[f] their legs and bodies--
Great numbers of Sea Otters in the river below the falls, I Shot one in
the narrow chanel to day which I could not get. Great numbers of Indians visit us
both from above and below--. one of the old Chiefs who had accompanied us from the
head of the river, informed us that he herd the Indians Say that the nation below intended
to kill us, we examined all the arms &c. complete the amunition to 100 rounds.
The nativs leave us earlyer this evening than usial, which gives a Shadow of
Confirmation to the information of our Old Chief, as we are at all times & places on
our guard, are under no greater apprehention than is common.
we purchased 8 Small fat dogs for the party to eate the nativs not being
fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of Dog meat for food, the flesh
of which the most of the party have become fond of from the habits of useing it for Some
time past. The Altitude of this day 66o 27' 30" gave for Latd. 45o
42' 57 3/10 N.
I observed on the beach near the Indian Lodges two Canoes butifull of different Shape
& Size to what we had Seen above wide in the middle and tapering to each end, on the
bow curious figures were Cut in the wood &c. Capt. Lewis went up to the Lodges
to See those Canoes and exchanged our Smallest Canoe for one of them by giveing a Hatchet
& few trinkets to the owner who informed that he purchased it of a white man below for
a horse, these Canoes are neeter made than any I have ever Seen and Calculated to ride the
waves, and carry emence burthens, they are dug thin and are suported by cross pieces of
about 1 inch diamuter tied with Strong bark thro' holes in the Sides. [The
Chinookan peoples of the lower Columbia and Northwest Coast were master canoe-builders, a
skill which helped them immeasurably in coping with their environment. See February
1, 1806.] our two old Chiefs appeared verry uneasy this evening.
October 23, 1805
Patrick Gass
A Pleasant day. At 9 o'clock in the forenoon all hands, but three left to keep camp,
went up and took the canoes over to the south side; as the natives said that was the best
side of the river to take them down. Here we had to drag them 450 yards round the first
pitch which is 20 feet perpendicular. We then put them into the water and let them down
the rest of the way by cords. The whole height of the falls [Celilo Falls in
Klickitat County] is 37 feet 8 inches, in a distance of 1200 yards. In the
evening we got all our canoes safe down to the encampment on the north side. The natives
are very numerous about these falls, as it is a great fishing place in the spring of the
year. The country on both sides of the river here is high, and the bluffs rocky. Captain
Lewis had an observation, which made the latitude of this place 45o 42 57. 3.
We got several dogs from these Indians, which we find strong wholesome diet. The high
water mark below the falls is 48 feet, and above only 10 feet four inches from the surface
of the water: so that in high water there is nothing but a rapid, and the salmon can pass
up without difficulty. The reason of this rise in the water below the falls is, that for
three miles down, the river is so confined by rocks (being not more than 70 yards wide)
that it cannot discharge the water, as fast as it comes over the falls, unitl what is
deficient in breadth is made up in depth. About the great pitch the appearance of the
place is terrifying, with vast rocks, and the river below the pitch, foaming through
different channels.
October 23, 1805
John Ordway
a clear pleasant morning. about 8 oClock Capt. Clark went with the most of the
party and took all the canoes across the River and halled them about a quarter of a mile
over the rocks past a perpinticular fall of 22 feet and put them in a verry rapid channel
below. this protage has been used by the natives takeing their Small canoes round and
close below the great falls is a large fishery in the Spring of the year and the flies at
this time are verry numerous and trouble us verry much as the ground is covred with them
we got the canoes all in the channel below the big fall then the best
Swimmers went on board and took them through the whorl pools a little more than half a
mile then came to two more pitches of abt. three feet each we let the canoes
down by ropes. one of them broke loose from us and went over Safe and was taken up
by the natives below. towards evening we got the canoes all Safe down to camp
without dammage--
The Latitude at this place which is called the grand falls of the Columbia River is
taken aby Capt. Lewis is 45o 42' 57.3' North. the hight of the particular
falls in all is 37 feet eight Inches, and has a large rock Island in the midst of them and
look Shocking the water divided in several channels by the rocks. Some of the cooks
at camp bought several fat dogs this day. in the evening one of our chiefs Signed to us
that the natives had a sisign to kill us in the night. So we prepared for them &C--
October 23, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear pleasant morning. we took an eairly breakfast in order to undertake
gitting the canoes by the falls. about 8 oClock A m. we all went with Capt Clark and
took the canoes across the River, then halled them round a perpinticular pitch of 21 feet.
we halled all canoes round the high rocks about a quarter of a mile then put htem
in the water again. this portage has been frequented by the natives halling their
canoes round, and it is a great fishery with them in the Spring. and the flees [Fleas
belong to the family Pulicidae, but these may in fact be human body lice, Pediculus
humanus. See Clark's entry of October 26, 1805.] are now verry thick, the
ground covd. with them. they troubled us verry much this day. we got the canoes all
in the River below the great falls of 22 feet perpinticular then went on board again and
ran verry rapid through the whorl pools a little better than a half a mile then came
to 2 little falls of about 3 feet each we let the canoes down by ropes one of
them got away from us from the Lower Shoot and was taken up by the Indians below.
towards evening we got all the canoes Safe down to Camp. the Latitude at this place which
is called the grand falls of the Columbia River is 45o 42' 57'.3. the
hight of the falls is in all 37 feet 8 Inches, and has a large Rock Island in them and
look Shocking, but are ordinary looking. Some of the Sick men at Camp bought Several
fat dogs this day. in the evening one of our chief[s] Signed to us
that the Savages had a design to kill us in the night, which put us on our guard.
but we were not afraid of them for we think we can drive three times our nomber.--
October 23, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning we had Clear pleasant Weather, We took an early breakfast, in order to get
the Canoes from where we left them Yesterday; About 8 o'Clock A.M. the greatest part of
our Men, set out with Captain Clark and went up to the head of the falls, where we took
our Canoes to the opposite <shore,> side of the River & hawled them out on the
Shore.--
The party then hawled the Canoes, round a perpendicular fall of 21 feet, and also round
high rocks for about a quarter of a Mile distance and then put them in the Water again.
This portage is frequently used by the Natives as in hawling their Canoes round
& is a great fishery & used by the Natives as such, in the spring of the Year.
we found at this place innumerable Quantities of fleas, the ground being cover'd
with them, & they were very troublesome. the place where we put our Canoes last
into the Water, lies below a fall of 22 feet perpendicular. The Men embark'd on
board the Canoes again, and went with great rapidity through the Rocks in a narrow Channel
of the River and crossed a whirl pool, which was better than a half Mile across & came
to where lay 2 little falls of about 3 feet each. They then let the Canoes down
through those falls by Ropes. One of our Canoes got away from the Men was was
letting her down at the lower Shoot; & was taken up by some of the Natives, just below
where we left our baggage &ca. Towards evening we got all our Canoes safe down
to our Camp. These falls in called the Grand falls of Columbia River, and lies in
Latitude 45o 42' 57 3/10S North, the heighth of them as before mentioned is
altogether 37 feet 8 Inches, and has a large Island of rock, lying in the middle of them,
& has a terrifying appearance to pass through. We have some of our Men this day
sick at our Camp; owing to fataigue, manner of living, Water &ca. Our party that
were left at the Camp purchased several dogs from the Natives. In the Evening on of
the Indian Chiefs, that descended the River with us; made signs to us, & let us know,
that the Indians who are at our Camp, had formed a design to kill us in the night.
We kept up a strong guard all night, but they did not attempt to put their plan into
execution.--
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