October 24, 1805
William Clark
a fine morning the Indians approached us with caution. our 2
old Chiefs deturmin to return home, Saying they were at war with Indians below and they
would kill them we pursuaded them to Stay 2 nights longer with us, with a view
to make a peace with those Indians below as well as to have them with us dureing our Delay
with this tribe. Capt Lewis went to view the falls I Set out with the
party at 9 oClock a m at 2 1/2 miles passed a rock which makes from the Stard
Side 4 Lodges above 1 below and Confined the river in a narrow channel of about 45 yards
[The Short, or Little, Narrows, with the Long Narrows, constitute The Dalles of the
Columbia, located above the present town of The Dalles, Oregon. Formerly a major obstacle
to navigation, they are now inundated by The Dalles Dam. Clark drew a detailed
sketch map of the narrows. The four lodges are believed in the area of Browns Island, but
the precise location is still unknown. Some dispute exists in that Browns Island is too
far downstream in relation to Clark's map.] this continued for about 1/4 of a
mile & widened to about 200 yards, in those narrows the water was agitated in a most
Shocking manner boils swells & whorl pools, we passed with great risque It being
impossible to make a portage of the canoes, about 2 miles lower passed a verry Bad place
between 2 rocks one large & in the middle of the river here our Canoes
took in Some water, I put all the men who Could not Swim on Shore; & Sent a fiew
articles Such as guns & papers, and landed at a village of 20 houses on the Stard Side
in a Deep bason where the river apprd. to be blocked up with emence rocks [The
camped in the vicinity of Horsethief Lake State Park. The Indians were Wishram-Wasco
Chinookans whom Lewis and Clark called Echelutes.] I walked down and
examined the pass found it narrow, and one verry bad place a little <below> in the
narrows I pursued this Chanel which is from 50 to 100 yards wide and Swels and
boils with a most Tremendeous manner; prosued this channel [The Long Narrows.]
5 ms & returned found Capt Lewis & a Chief from below with maney of
his men on a visit to us, one of our Party Pete Crusat played on the violin which
pleased the savage, the men danced, Great numbers of Sea Orter Pole Cats about those
fishories. the houses of those Indians are 20 feet Square and Sunk 8 feet
under ground & Covered with bark with a Small door round at top rose about 18 Inches
above ground, to keep out the Snow I saw 107 parcels of fish Stacked, and
great quantities in the houses
October 24, 1805
William Clark
The morning fare after a beautifull night, the nativs approached us this morning with
great caution. our two old chiefs expressed a desire to return to their band
from this place, Saying "that they Could be of no further Service to us, as their
nation extended no further down the river than those falls, [They could no longer
understand the language of those Indians below the falls. Thus, the two Nez Perce chiefs
were unable to serve as interpreters. The region of The Dalles was the dividing line
between Chinookan-language speakers down stream and Shahaptian-language speakers
upstream.] and as the nation below had expressed hostile intentions against us,
would Certainly kill them; perticularly as They had been at war with each other;"
we requested them to Stay with us two nights longer, and we would See the
nation below and make a peace between them, they replied they "were anxious to return
and See our horses" we insisted on their Staying with us two nights longer to which
they agreed; our views were to detain those Chiefs with us untill we Should pass the next
falls, which we were told was verry bad, and at no great distance below, that they night
inform us of any designs of the nativs, and if possible to bring about a peace between
them and the tribes below.
The first pitch of this falls is 20 feet perpendicular, then passing thro' a narrow
Chanel for 1 mile to a rapid of about 18 feet fall below which the water has no
perceptable fall but verry rapid See Sketch No. 1. It may be proper
here to remark that from Some obstruction below, the cause of which we have not yet
learned, the water in high fluds (which are in the Spirng) rise <neearly> below
these falls nearly to a leavel with the water above the falls; the marks of which can be
plainly trac'd around the falls. at that Stage of the water the Salmon must pass up
which abounds in Such great numbers above-- below those falls are Salmon trout and
great numbers of the heads of a Species of trout Smaller than the Salmon. Those fish
they catch out of the Salmon Season, and are at this time in the act of burrying those
which they had drid for winter food. the mode of buring those fish is in holes
of various Sizes, lined with Straw on which they lay fish Skins in which they inclose the
fish which is laid verry close, and then Covered with earth of about 12 or 15 inches
thick. Capt Lewis and three men crossed the river and on the opposit Side to view the
falls which he had not yet taken a full view of-- At 9 oClock a. m. I Set out with the
party and proceeded on down a rpid Stream of about 400 yards wide at 2 1/2
miles the river widened into a large bason to the Stard. Side on which there is five
Lodges of Indians. here a tremendious <heigh> black rock Presented
itself high and Steep appering to choke up the river nor could I See where the wate passed
further than the Current was drawn with great velocity to the Lard Side of this rock at
which place I heard a great roreing. I landed at the Lodges and the natives went
with me to the top of this rock which makes from the Stard. Side; from the top of which I
could See the dificuelties we had to pass for Several miles below; at this place the water
of this great river is compressed into a Chanel between two rocks not exceeding forty
five yards wide and continues for a 1/4 of a mile when it again widens to 200 yards
and continues this width for about 2 miles when it is again intersepted by rocks.
This obstruction in the river accounts for the water in high floods riseing to Such a hite
at the last falls. The whole of the Current of this great river must at all Stages
passs thro' this narrow chanel of 45 yards wide. as the portage of our canoes
over this high rock would be impossible with our Strength, and the only danger in passing
thro those narrows was the whorls and Swills arriseing from the Compression of the water,
and which I thought (as also our principal watermen Peter Crusat) by good Stearing
we could pass down Safe, accordingly I deturmined to pass through this place
notwithstanding the horrid appearance of this agitated gut Swelling, boilinlg &
whorling in every direction (which from the top of the rock did not appear as bad as when
I was in it;[)] however we passed Safe to the astonishment of all
the Inds: of the last Lodges who viewed us from the top of the rock. passed
one Lodge below this rock and halted on the Stard. Side to view a verry bad place, the
Current divided by 2 Islands of rocks the lower of them large and in the middle of the
river, this place being verry badd I Sent by land all the men who could not Swim and Such
articles as was most valuable to us Such as papers Gunds & amunition, and proceeded
down with the Canoes two at a time to a village of 20 wood housies in a Deep bend to the
Stard. Side below which a rugid black rock about <the> 20 feet hiter <of> than
the Common high fluds of the river with Several dry Chanels which appeared to Choke the
river up quite across; this I took to be the 2d falls or the place the nativs above call timm,
The nativs of this village reived me verry kindly, one of whome envited me into his house,
which I found to be large and comodious, and the first wooden houses in which Indians have
lived Since we left those in the vicinty of the Illinois, they are scattered permiscuisly
on a elivated Situation near a mound of about 30 feet above the Common leavel, which mound
has Some remains of houses and has every appearance of being artificial-- those
houses are about the Same Shape Size and form 20 feet <Square> wide and 30 feet long
with one Dore raised 18 Inches above ground, <which> they are 29 1/2 inches high
& 14 wide, forming in a half Circle above [Clark made a drawing of the shape
of the door.] those houses were Sunk into the earth Six feet, the
roofs of them was Supported by a ridge pole resting on three Strong pieces of Split timber
thro' one of which the dore was cut <on which> that and the walls <which> the
top of which was just above ground Suported a certain number of Spars which are Covered
with the Bark of the white Ceadar, or Arber Vitea; and the whole attached and
Secured by the fibers of the Cedar. the eaves at or near the earth, the gable ends
and Side walls are Secured with Split boards which is Seported on iner Side with Strong
ieces of timber under the eves &c. to keep those pieces errect & the earth
from without pressing in the boards, Suported by Strong posts at the Corners to which
those poles were attached to give aditional Strength, Small openings were left above the
ground, for the purpose, as I conjectured, of descargeing Their arrows at a besiegeing
enimey; Light is admited Thro an opening at top which also Serves for the Smoke to pass
through. one half of those houses is apropriated for the Storeing away Dried
& pounded fish which is the principal food The other part next the dore is
the part occupied by the nativs who have beds raised on either Side, with a fire place in
the center of this Space each house appeared to be occupied by about three families; that
part which is apropriated for fish was crouded with that article, and a fiew baskets of
burries-- I dispatched a Sufficent number of the good Swimers back for the 2
canoes above the last rapid and with 2 men walked down three miles to examine the river
Over a bed of rocks, which the water at verry high fluds passes over, on those rocks I Saw
Several large Scaffols on which the Indians dry fish; as this is out of Season the poles
on which they dry those fish are tied up verry Securely in large bundles and put upon the
Scafolds, I counted 107 <Scaff> Stacks of dried pounded fish in different places on
those rocks which must have contained 10,000 w. of neet fish, The evening being late I
could not examine the river to my Satisfaction, the Chanel is narrow and compressed for
about 2 miles, when it widens into a deep bason to the Stard. Side, & again contracts
into a narrow chanel divided by a rock I returned through a rockey open
countrey infested with pole-cats to the village where I met with Capt. Lewis the two old
Chiefs who accompanied us & the party & canoes who had all arived Safe; the Canoes
haveing taken in Some water at the last rapids. here we formed a Camp near the
Village, The principal Chief from the nation below with Several of his men visited us, and
afforded a favourable oppertunity of bringing about a Piece and good understanding between
this chief and his people and the two Chiefs who accompanied us which we have the
Satisfaction to Say we have accomplished, as we have every reason to believe and that
those two bands or nations are and will be on the most friendly terms with each other.
gave this Great Chief a Medal and Some other articles, of which he was much
pleased, Peter Crusant played on the violin and the men danced which delighted
the nativs, who Shew every civility towards us. we Smoked with those people untill
late at night, when every one retired to rest.
October 24, 1805
Patrick Gass
We had a fine morning and proceeded on early; found the water very rapid below the
falls; and having gone 4 miles below the narrows, came to other narrows still more
confined and the rocks higher. At the head of these narrows we halted about 2 o'clock at a
great Indian village [The Dalles, theWishram village of Nixluidix on the north
side of the river and Wascoes lived on the south side of the river], and remained
there all night. We got fish and dogs from the natives, and some berries, different from
any we got before, some call them cranberries; whether of the real kind or not I am not
certain. In our way down to day we saw a great many sea otters swimming in the river, and
killed some, but could not get them as they sunk to the bottom. This village has better
lodges than any on the river above; one story of which is sunk under ground and lined with
flags mats: The upper part about 4 feet above ground is covered over with cedar bark, and
they are tolerably comfortable houses.
October 24, 1805
John Ordway
the natives did not attempt to trouble us last night. a clear pleasant morning.
we loaded the canoes and Set out about 9 oClock and proceeded on the current
rapid we went through a narrows [The Short, or Little, Narrows]
where the river is all confined in a narrow channel of about 20 yds and verry rapid and
bad whorl pools, and went on verry well towards evening we came to another narrows [The
Long Narrows, together with The Short Narrows constitute The Dalles of the Columbia River
near The Dalles, Oregon] we camped [Near Horsethief Lake State
Park, Washington] little above at an Indian village which was made half under the
surface of the ground and the upper part well formed and covred with white ceeder bark.
they are verry comfortable houses. we bought a number of fat dogs, crmbries
and white cakes of root bread. high prarie and barron hills near the River but
appears to be Some timber back from the River.
October 24, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear cool morning we loaded up and set out about 9 oClock and proceeded on
down. the current verry rapid. we went through a place wher the river was all
confined in a narrow channel of about 20 yds. wide high rocks on each Side the
current verry rapid and full of whorl pools we rain down verry fast, passed Several
fishing Camps. high barron land on each Side of the River. about 4 oClo P.m.
we went down a bad rapid where the River was cut in rockey Islad. &.c. a Short
distance below we came to another narro [The narrows are now inundated beneath the
waters of The Dalles Dam.] where the River is filled with high rocks.
we halted and Camped [In the vicinity of Horsethief Lake State Park.]
for the night at a village of Savages [Wishram-Wasco Chinookans.]
or red people, which have their houses in our form only they have them in the ground
except the roof which is covred with white ceeder bark Some hewn plank which are
verry nice comfortable houses their flag mats &c. we bought from them Some
cakes of white root bread and other kinds of cramberies [Probably American
cranberrybush, Viburnum trilobum, restricted to the Columbia gorge in this
region.] &c, we bought a nomber of fat dogs and Some wood for us to cook
with. their appears to be Some timber back from the River.
their has been white people tradeing among these Savages Saw one half white
child among them. Saw also a new copper tea kittle beeds copper and a nomber of
other articles which must have come from Some white trader. we had went only 7
miles this day. <this may>
October 24, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
We had a cool pleasant morning. We loaded our Canoes & set out about 9
o'Clock A.M. on our voyage; we found the current of the river running very rapid. We
proceeded on, and passed through a part of the River, which was confined in a narrow
channel of about 20 Yards wide; having high rocks on each side of it, the Current very
rapid, and a great many whirl pools. Our Canoes went with very great rapidity
through this place. We got through this dangerous place, without any accident
happening to us, & passed by several Indian fishing Camps, & high barren land
which lay on both sides of the River.-- About 4 o'Clock P.M. we went down a bad
rapid, where the River had made channels, in rockey Islands, & dangerous places; and a
short distance below that place, we came to a Narrow place in the River, where across the
River, was many high Rocks, & several rapid Channels running between them.-- We
halted above this Narrow, & encamped for the night at a Village Inhabited by Indians.
These Indians had their houses built, in the same form that we build our houses in
the United States with these exceptions, that they were built in the ground, & the
Roofs were made, of white Cedar bark, & neatly put on. They had also some of
them covered with hewn plank. They appeared to live comfortable, they had matts to
lay on, made out of flaggs & several other household utensials.-- We purchased
from them some Cakes of white Root bread; Cranberies, a number of fat dogs, Wood to cook
with, &ca. We saw some timber here, which grew a distance back from the River.--
We conclude that their must have been some white people among these Indians, as
they had among them, a new Copper Tea kettle, beads, small pieces of Copper & a number
of other articles We saw also a Child among them, which was a mix'd breed,
between a White Man & Indian Women. The fairness of its Skin, & rosey
colour, convinced us that it must have been the case, and we have no doubt, but that white
Men trade among them-- We came but 7 Miles this day & our Course was as usual
West,--
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