October 25, 1805
William Clark
A Cold morning, we deturmined to attempt the Chanel after Brackfast i took
down all the party below the bad places with a load & one Canoe passed
well, a 2d passed well I had men on the Shore with ropes to throw in in Case
any acidence happened at the Whirl &c-- the Inds on the rocks veiwing us
the 3rd Canoe nearly filled with water we got her Safe to Shore.
The last Canoe Came over well which to me was truly gratifying
Set out and had not passed 2 mils before 3 Canoes run against a rock in the
river with great force no damg. <at> met with a 2d Chief of the
nation from hunting, we Smoked with him and his party and gave a medal of The Small Size
& Set out passed great numbers of rocks, good water and Came to at a high
<bluff> point of rocks below the mouth of a Creek which falls in on the Lard Side
and head up towards the high Snow mountain to the S W. This Creek
["Que-nett Creek" on Clark's map; now Mill Creek, flowing into the Columbia at
The Dalles, Oregon. The name Quenett likely comes from the Upper Chinookan word for
"Chinook salmon".] is 20 yards wide and has Some beaver Signs at its
mouth river about 1/2 a mile wide and Crouded with Sea otters, & drum was Seen
this evening we took possession of a high Point of rocks to defend our Selves
in Case the threts of those Indians below Should be put in execution against us.
Sent out Some hunters to look if any Signs of game, one man killed a Small deer
& Several others Seen I killed a goose, and Suped haritly on venison &
goose. Camped on the rock [This rock they later called "Fort Camp"
or "Fort Rock Camp" at the mouth of Mill Creek, at the Present town of The
Dalles, Oregon. Here they camped October 25-28, 1805 and April 15-18, 1806.]
guard under the hill.
Courses from the upper rapids
| West |
2 |
miles passing a Lard. point of Land and a Stard. point & 3 Lodges
a deep bason to the Stard. to a pt of rocks, above a Chanel |
| S. 70o W. |
2 |
miles to a rock Island in the middle of the river at a bad rapid &
whols, passed thro a narrow bad Chanel 45 yds wide for 1/4 of a miles. [Little
Narrows.] a Lodge below on Stard. Side halted to look out |
| S. 50o W. |
2 |
miles to a rock at the head of a narrow Chanel, a deep bason to the Stard.
on which a village of 21 Lodges-- passed a large rock Island in the middle of the
river. The Channel nearest the Lard Side |
| S. 34o W |
3 |
miles thro a narrow Swift bad Chanel from 50 to 100 yards wide, [The
Long Narrows.] of Swels Whorls & bad places a verry bad place at 1
mile, a rock in the midl. at 2 miles to a rock above a Deep bason to the Stard. Side above
the rock |
| S. 20o W. |
2 |
miles to a high Rock Passed thro a narrow Channel on the Std.
Side of a rock in the middle of the Chanel |
| N. 60o W |
1 |
mile to a bend, passed a bason to the Lard Side, and large ruged rocks on
both sides |
| S. 60o W. |
4 |
miles to large Creek a lard. bend under a timbered bottoms & the first
timber we have Seen near the river for a long distance Pine & white oake |
October 25, 1805
William Clark
a cool morning Capt Lewis and my Self walked down to See the place the
Indians pointed out as the worst place in passing through the gut, which we found
difficuelt of passing without great danger, but as the portage was impractiable with our
large Canoes, we Concluded to Make a portage of our most valuable articles and run the
canoes thro accordingly on our return divided the party Some to take over the
Canoes, and others to take our Stores across a portage of a mile to a place on the Chanel
below this bad whorl & Suck, with Some others I had fixed on the Chanel with roapes to
throw out to any who Should unfortunately meet with difficuelty in passing through; great
numbers of Indians viewing us from the high rocks under which we had to pass, the 3 firt
Canoes passed thro very well, the 4th nearly filled with water, the last passed through by
takeing in a little water, <we> thus Safely below what I conceved to be the worst
part of this Chanel, felt my Self extreamly gratified and pleased. we loaded
the Canoes & Set out, and had not proceeded, more than two miles before the
unfortunate Canoe which filled crossing the bad place above, run against a rock and was in
great danger of being lost, This Chanel is through a hard rough black rock, from 50--100
yards wide. Swelling and boiling in a most tremendious maner Several plades on which the
Indians inform me they take the Salmon as fast as they wish; we passed through a deep
bason to the Stard Side of 1 miles below which the River narrows and divided by a rock
The Curent we found quit jentle, here we met with our two old chiefs who had
been to a village below to Smoke a friendly pipe, and at this place they met the Cheif
& party from the village above [Likely from the "Echelute," or
Wishram village above the Long Narrows, but possibly from the "Eneeshurs" above
Celilo Falls. See October 22 & 24, 1805.] on his return from hunting all of
whome were then crossing over their horses, we landed to Smoke a pipe with this Chief
whome we found to be a bold pleasing looking man of about 50 years of age dressd. in a war
jacket a cap Legins & mockersons. he gave us Some meat of which he had but
little and informed us he in his rout met with a war party of Snake Indians from the great
river of the S. E. which falls in a few miles above and had a fight. e gave
this Chief a Medal, &c. a parting Smoke with our two faithful friends the Chiefs who
accompanied us from the head of the river, (who had purchased a horse each with 2 robes
and intended to return on horse back) we proceeded on down the water fine,
rocks in every derection for a fiew miles when the river widens and becoms a butifull
jentle Stream of about half a mile wide, Great numbers of the Sea Orter [Possibly
Seals.] about those narrows and both below and above. we Came too,
under a high point of rocks on the Lard. Side below a creek of 20 yards wide and much
water, as it was necessary to make Some Selestial observations we formed our Camp on the
top of a high point of rocks, which forms a kind of <artif> fortification in the
Point between the river & Creek, with a boat guard, this Situation we Concieve well
Calculated for defence, and Conveniant to hunt under the foots of the mountain to the West
& S. W. [The Cascade Range.] where timber of different kinds
grows, and appears to be handsom Coverts for the Deer, in oke woods, Sent out hunters to
examine for game G. D. [George Drouillard.] Killed a Small
Deer & other Saw much Sign, I killed a goose in the creek which was verry fat--
one of the guard saw a Drum fish [No species of drum fish are known
in the Columbia River. The identity of the fish is not possible to ascertain.] to
day as he Conceved our Situation well Calculated to defend <us> our
Selves from any designs of the natives, Should They be enclined to attack us.
This little Creek heads in the range of mountains which run S S W & N W for a long
distance on which is Scattering pine white Oake &c. The Pinical of the round
toped mountain which we Saw a Short distance below the forks of this river is S. 43o
W. of us and abt 37 miles, it is at this time toped with Snow we called this
the falls mountain or Timm mountain [Mt. Hood of Vancouver.]
The face of the Countrey, on both Side of the river above and about
the falls, is Steep ruged and rockey open and contain abut a Small preportion of erbage,
no timber a fiew bushes excepted, The nativs at the upper falls raft their timber down Towarnehooks
River & those at the narrows take theirs up the river to the lower part of the narrows
from this Creek, and Carry it over land 3 miles to their houses &c. at the
mouth of this creek Saw Some beaver Sign, and a Small wolf in a Snare Set in the willows
The Snars of which I saw Several made for to catch wolves, are made as
follows vz: a long pole which will Spring is made fast with bark to a willow, on the top
of this pole a String. [See January 15, 1806.]
October 25, 1805
Patrick Gass
We found there were bad rapids in the narrows and therefore carried over part of our
baggage by land, about three quarters of a mile; and then took the canoes over, one at a
time. In going over one of them filled with water, on account of which we were detained
three hours. The rapids continued 3 or 4 miles, when the river became more placid. At
night we came to a place where there is a considerable quantity of timber on the hills;
both oak and pine, and encamped at the mouth of a creek on the south side. The natives
about here are, or pretend to be, very uneasy, and say the Indians below will kill us. We
purchased from them a quantity of dried pounded fish, which they had prepared in that way
for sale. They have six scaffolds of a great size for the purpose of drying their fish on.
October 25, 1805
John Ordway
a fair morning. we carried some of our baggage by land about one mile past the
worst of the narrows. then took one canoe at a time down the narrows and whorl
pools. one of the canoes filled with water running through the narrows we got all
below and loaded the canoes we have now 16 bags of Sammon on board. about 3 oClock
P.M. we Set out and proceeded on the narrows continued about 2 miles and verry
rapid. 2 Small Islands of Sollid rock Stood in these narrows one of the cnoes
was near dashing in peaces by Strikeing hir bow against the upper point of one of them.
the River between these narrows and the great falls rises at high water 48 feet
perpenticular by its being confined by the different narrows. near the lower end of
the narrows we Saw a war party of Indians which had jest Swam the River to the Stard Side
with their horses. they had some venision &C with them. we halted a fiew
minutes and our officers Smoaked with them they gave us some bears oil and a little
venision and Some fresh fish. we went on 2 chiefs told us that their was a
nation below which they were at war with and they did not wish to go any further with us
so our officers Settled with them and they renturned back to their nation. we then
went on Saw Some drumm fish jumping in the River the River gitting Smoth. Saw
pine and oak tiamber near the Shores we cn Still See the round high mountain Some
distance a head yet. we Camped below the mouth of a creek [Mill Creek at the
town of The Dalles, Oregon, referred to as "Fort Camp" or Fort Rock Camp"
by the Corp.] on a point of rocks on the Lard. Side. the country timbered
back a little from the River.--
October 25, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear morning. we carrd. Some of our baggage about a mile, which took us below
the worst of the rapids, then took one canoe down the rapid and narrows where the whole
channel is confined in a narrow channel only about 25 yards wide. one of the canoes
nearly fi[lled] running through the rapids waves & whorl pools.
we got all the canoes down and loaded them. we have bought a large quantity
about 16 common bagss of punded Sammon Some white bread cramberies &c. about 3 oClock
we Set out and proceeded on down the narrows which lasted abt. 2 miles verry rapid
2 [The number "2" is overwritten an "a".]
Small Islands of Solid rocks Stood in the channel one of the canoes ran hir bow
aggainst the point and glanced off without Injury. the water on River between these
narrows and the falls, rises at high water 48 feet perpinticular by its being confined by
the different narrows. a little [below] or at the lower end of the
narrows we Saw a war party of Indians, with horses. they had deer & bear meat
with them the head chief had on a jacket that was made of Some kind of worked Splits
which would defend of the arrows. our Capts. gave him a meddle, then he gave our
Capts. Some bears oil and a fresh Sammon our 2 chiefs came to us and told us that
their was a nation below that which had a design to kill them and us So they left us
in order to return to their own village again.-- we then proceeded on about eight
miles the hils high Some pine and oak timbr. to be Seen the River got
Smooth. we Campd. [At the party's "Fort Camp" or "Fort Rock
Camp," at the mouth of Mill Creek at the town of The Dalles, where they stayed until
October 28.] on a high point of rocks little below the mouth of a creek on the
Lard. Side. timbered country hack from the River each Side. Saw drumm fish [This
fish is not identifiable; see Clark's entry for this day.] jump in Rivr.
October 25, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning clear & pleasant; Our Men that were well (all excpeting a Guard left
with our Canoes,) set off with the loading to a place, below the worst of the rapids;
about one Mile distance, which we carried on our backs, The party that were left with the
Canoes, took one of our Canoes down the rapids, and narrows of the River. The
channel of the river lays in a narrow place, not about 25 Yards wide, & with
difficulty they got through it. they then returned, & brought the remainde of
the Canoes to us, at the place where we had deposited our loading. One of the Canoes
nearly filled, in passing through the Rapid waves & whirlpools in the Rapids.--
We found an Indian village, laying below these falls, or rapids, <from whom> our
officers purchased from the Indians that resided in this Village 16 bags of punded Salmon;
some bread made out of Roots, Cranberries &ca. The whole of our party having
come to us below the rapids; we loaded our Canoes & About 3 o'Clock P.M. & we set
out, and proceeded on down through the rapids, which lasted about 2 Miles further &
the water running very Rapid, the whole way.-- We found 2 small Islands of solid
rock, which lay in the channel of the River in these Rapids. One of our Canoes run
her bow against the point of one of these Islands, & glanced off without receiving any
injury.-- The River between the falls & narrows at that place rises at high
water 48 feet perpendicular, which is occasion'd by the water being confined by the
different narrow places, & particularly at the lower end of them.-- We cam too,
at the lower end of these falls, and halted for a short time, at which place a Warr party
of Indians, came to us. These Indians were all on horse back, & had Deer &
bear meat with them. Our officers gave their Chief a medal, & he in return gave
them some Bears Oil & a fresh Salmon.-- This Warr party of Indians staid with us
but a short time. The Two Indian Chiefs who descended the River with us, told us by
signs, that there was a Nation of Indians, that resided on this River below us, who would
certainly kill them; & the whole of our party, and that they must leave us, in order
to return to their own Village again. These Indians left us at this place, after
taking a friendly leave. Our Officers gave them some presents & they left us
much pleased.-- The Chief or head Man that had been with us of the Warr party; wore
a curious kind of Jacket, This Jacket was made out of a kind of Splits, which were worked
in such a manner, as to defend him against the Arrows shot by his Enemies.-- We
proceeded on, & went about 8 Miles further down the River. The hills the whole
of this distance, were high on both sides of the River, and we samw some pine & Oak
timber, The River ran smooth all this way, We encamped near a high point of Rocks, a small
distance below the mouth of a creek, whichlay on the South side of the River; The country
laying a small distance bck, from where we are encamped, is cover'd with Timber.--
And the Land on both sides of the River, is barren land We saw a Number of sish
jumpin in the River from where we are encamped which we supposed to be Drum fish.--
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