May 27, 1805
John Ordway
the wind blew hard from the S.W. which detained us untill about 10 oClock at which time
we Set out & proceeded on. passed a Small necked Island on the Lard. Side
immediately above the timber in which we Camped the river is verry Shoaley and
the bad places are verry numerous.-- at the mouth of every dreen the rocks is
thrown Some distance in the river which causes the riffles. this day is verry
warm. we Saw only a fiew herds of Big horned animel on the hills, & 2 Elk,
one of which we killed. we Camped at 2 ded top trees in the Larboard Side. [Near
McGarry Bar.] the river is generally about 200 yards wide & current
very Swift to day, and has a verry prosperous falls in all its course it
roses a little. Came 14 miles to day.--
May 27, 1805
Patrick Gass
We have now got into a country which presents little to our view, but scenes of
barrenness and desolation; and see no encouraging prospects that it will terminate. Having
proceeded (by the course of this river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may
therefore not be improper to make two or three general observations respecting the country
we have passed.
From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Platte, a distance of more than six
hundred miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with a sufficient quantity of
timber; in many places very rich, and the country pleasant and beautiful.
From the confluence of the river Platte with the Missouri to the Sterile desert we
lately entered, a distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles the soil is less rich, and
except in the bottoms, the land of an inferior quality; but may in general be called good
second rate land. The country is rather hilly than level, though not mountainous, rocky or
stony. The hills in their unsheltered state are much exposed to be washed by heavy rains.
This kind of country and soil which has fallen under our observation in our progress up
the Missouri, extends it is understood, to a great distance on both sides of the river.
Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cotton wood and willows are frequent
in the bottoms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely without timber, and consists
of large prairies or plains the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass
is generally short on these immense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are
decorated with blossoms and flowers of various colours. The views from the hills are
interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with their hills and vales, stretching away in
lessening wavy ridges, until by their distance they fade from the sight; large rivers and
streams in their rapid course, winding in various meanders; groves of cotton wood and
willow along the waters intersecting the landscapes in different directions, dividing them
into various forms, at length appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon; these
enlivened with the buffaloe, elk, deer, and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon
the plains or pursue their prey are the prominent objects, which compose the extensive
prospects presented to the view and strike the attention of the beholder.
The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in general not large and during high
water mostly overflowed.
There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in other parts of the contry.
Those along that river do not generally follow its windings but cut oof points of land and
pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made by the bufaloe and other
animals; some of the buffaloe roads are at least ten feet wide. We did not embark
this morning until 8 o'clock. The day was fine, but the wind ahead. We had difficult
water, and passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld; nothing but barren
mountains on both sides of the river, as far as our view could extend. The bed of the
river is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some places; but these are chiefly of
earth. We went thirteen miles and encamped in a bottom, just large enough for the purpose,
and made out to get enough of drift wood to cook with.
May 27, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
pleasant weather. the wind high from the N.W. about 10 oC. we Set off and
proceeded on with the towing lines. the current verry Swift.
passed a great nomber of rapid places. passed verry high Steep mountains and
Clifts Steep precipices. [They were traveling through the Missouri River Breaks.]
these mountains appear to be a desert part of the country. they wash by rains,
but a little rain in this part. no diews like other parts but barron broken
rich Soil but too much of a desert to be inhabited, or cultivated. Some Spots of
pitch & Spruce pine. [Douglas Fir, Pseudotsuga menziesii.]
the game is Scarcer than it has been. no grass nor timber for them to live in, but
what Ibex or Mountain Sheep, Elk deer &c live on what little grass their is in the
vallies and narrow plains on river, which is covered with wild hysop rose bush & Some
grass. Some different kinds of mint along the Shore. [Field Mint, Mentha
arvenis.] Saw mussel Shells also. the Shore is Stoney &
gravvelly. no falling in banks but the creeks drive the earth and gravvel in Some
distance in the river which causes the most of the hard riffles, which we have had all day
and had to double man our perogues to git them over Safe. one mountain ram or Ibex
killed to day. we Came 13 mes today, and Camped at an old Indian Camp on the
S. Side [of] River [Near later McGarry Bar.]
we are 800 & 10 miles from the Mandans, 2415 [from the mouth of the Missouri?]
May 27, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning pleasant weather, but the wind high, from the Northwest, about 10 o'Clock
A.M. we set out, and proceeded on our Voyage, towing the Craft, the current of the /River
running very Swift. We passed a number of rapid places, Steep mountains, Clifts and
precipices.-- This place appear'd to be a desert Country,-- The hills washing
by the Rains, No dews fall here, and it seldom Rains, The Soil is rich, but has the
appearance of being too much a desert, ever to be Inhabited. The Game become scarcer
here, than they have been for some time past, owing to their being no Grass, or Timber'd
land for them to live in.-- no Trees to be seen here, but a few Pitch pine
& Spruce.-- The Ibex, Elk & deer, being in the Valleys, & narrow plains
below this on the ?River.-- Those Valleys and plains are covered with wild hysop,
Rose bushes, and some Grass.-- some different kinds of wild mint grow along
the Shore of the River, and Mussles are to be found in great abundance.-- The land
along the Shore is Stoney, & Gravelly; and no falling in banks.-- The water that
comes in here from the Creeks, runs so strong that it drives the Stones, and gravel, some
distance into the River; which causes most of the hard Riffles, that we passed this day.--
And we had to Man our Crafts doubly in order to get them over Safe.-- One of
our party kill'd a Mountain Sheep (Ibex,) this day; We came too and encamp'd where we
found an old Indian Camp on the South side of the River, we are now 800 Miles above the
Mandan Nation & 2,415 Miles from the mouth of the Mesouri River
[The date of the following tables is unknown, however Whitehouse does provide
the latitude of the Marias River where the expedition arrived on June 2, 1805.]
| Remarks of Different places-- |
|
| Latd of |
the Gasnage |
38 |
15 |
57 |
N |
| Do |
Gran zoe-- |
39 |
16 |
23 |
N |
| Do |
rock pole |
38 |
16 |
00 |
N |
| Do |
the two Cherottors |
38 1/2 |
19 |
00 |
N |
| Do |
Decough |
38 |
31 |
13 |
N |
|
River plate |
41 |
17 |
00 |
|
| Do |
Camp of the Brareow on |
|
|
|
|
|
Council Bluffs-- |
41 |
17 |
00 |
|
|
| From River Duboise-- |
|
| To |
St. Charles-- |
21 |
Miles |
by |
water |
| " |
Gasconade-- |
104 |
" |
" |
-- |
| Unto |
the Osage River |
138 |
" |
" |
" |
| " |
Mine River |
201 |
" |
-- |
-- |
| 2 |
Charottoes Rivers |
226-- |
|
|
|
| " |
Old village of Misuries |
246-- |
|
|
|
| " |
Grand River |
254-- |
|
|
|
| " |
Kanzies River |
366-- |
|
|
|
| 2nd |
Old Village of Kanzies-- |
433-- |
|
|
|
| " |
Nodoway River |
481-- |
|
|
|
| " |
Grand Na, Mahawr |
511-- |
|
|
|
| " |
Bald pated prarie |
570-- |
|
|
|
| Moute of plate River |
632-- |
|
|
|
Council Bluffs-- |
682-- |
|
|
|
Little Scioux
River |
766-- |
|
|
|
| Mahars Village |
870-- |
|
|
|
| The Mouth of the Big Souix River-- |
880-- |
|
|
|
| The Mouth of the River Jacque-- |
970-- |
|
|
|
| Grand Calumet Bluffs-- |
980-- |
|
|
|
| the River of rapid water-- |
1020-- |
|
|
|
| Ceeder Island-- |
1090-- |
|
|
|
| River White R-- |
1142-- |
|
|
|
| To the Island in the Big bend or
Grand detorture of the Missouri River |
1183-- |
|
|
|
| round the Bend 30 miles-- |
1213-- |
|
|
|
| To the Ceeder Island above the Big
Bend-- |
1235-- |
|
|
|
| To the Mouth of the Teton River-- |
1275-- |
|
|
|
| To the 1st Village of Rickierees-- |
1480-- |
1430 |
|
|
| To Mouth of the River Bullette-- |
1505-- |
|
|
|
| River Chiss-Che-tar above the old
village of Mandans |
1550-- |
|
|
|
| Fort Mandans on the N. Side-- |
1600 1/2 |
|
|
|
| |
Latudes of the
Different Remarkable Places |
| |
|
|
|
|
| on the Missourie River of St. Charles-- |
38 |
54 |
39 |
N |
| Gasconade-- |
38 |
44 |
35 |
|
| Mo of the Osage River |
38 |
32 |
6 |
|
| mo of the Grand River |
38 |
47 |
54 9/10 |
|
| mo of the Kanzies River |
39 |
5 |
25 |
|
| 12 ms. above Dimond Isl. |
39 |
9 |
38 |
|
| 3 ms. below the {crossed out} 2nd Old Village of
Kanzies |
39 |
25 |
42 |
|
| mo. of the Nordaway-- |
39 |
39 |
22 |
|
| mo of Na mahaw-- |
39 |
55 |
56 |
|
| Good Isld.-- |
40 |
20 |
12 |
|
| Bald Pated Prarie |
40 |
27 |
6 |
|
| white Catfish Camp-- |
41 |
3 |
19 |
|
| Council Bluff- |
41 |
17 |
00 |
|
| Mo of Stone River or the little Sioux |
41 |
42 |
34 |
|
| On the South Side whare the late King of the
Mahars |
42 |
1 |
3 |
N |
| Fish Camp Neer the Mahars Village August 14th
1804 |
42 |
13 |
41 |
|
| Septmb. 1 Calimet Bluffs opsite the Sues
<Village> Lidges whare we met the Nation of the Sues |
42 |
53 |
13-- |
|
| Ceeder Island Louesells Fort-- |
44 |
11 |
33-- |
|
| the Mouth of the Chien /River-- |
44 |
19 |
36-- |
|
| Mouth of the Water-hoo river |
45 |
39 |
5-- |
|
| the Mouth of the River bullette-- |
46 |
29 |
00-- |
|
| Fort Mandans on N. Side-- |
47 |
21 |
00-- |
|
| at the forks of Mariah-- |
47 |
24 |
12-- |
|
|