June 03, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
On the point formed by the junction of Maria's river and the Missouri, Observed equal
altds. of the Sun with Sextant.
Altd. at the time of observation 65o 12' --"
Observed Meridian Altd. of Sun's L.L. with Octant by the back observation 56o
6'
Latitude deduced from this observation 47o 24' 12.8"
Observed time and distance of Sun's and Moon's nearest limbs with Sextant Sun West.
This morning early we passed over and formed a camp on the point formed by the junction
of the two large rivers. [The party remained at this location until June 12, 1805.
This site is believed to have been on an island below the present mouth of the Marias,
southeast of the town of Loma, Montana.] here in the course of the day I
continued my observations as are above stated. An interesting question was now to be
determined; which of these rivers was the Missouri, or that river which the Minnetares
call Amahte Arz zha or Missouri, and which they had discribed to us as approaching very
near to the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of the season, two
months of the traveling season having now elapsed, and to ascend such stream to the rocky
Mountain or perhaps much further before we could inform ourselves whether it did approach
the Columbia or not, and then be obliged to return and take the other stream would not
only loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the party that it
might defeat the expedition altogether. convinced we were that the utmost
circumspection and caution was necessary in deciding on the stream to be taken. to
this end an investigation of both streams was the first thing to be done; to learn their
widths, debths, comparitive rappidity of their courants and thence the comparitive bodies
of water furnished by each; accordingly we dispatched two light canoes with three men in
each up those streams; [Sergeant Pryor went up the Marias while Sergeant Gass
ascended the Missouri. Whitehouse reports he was a member of the latter party.]
we also sent out several small parties by land with instructions to penetrate the
country as far as they conveniently can permitting themselves time to return this evening
and indeavour if possible to discover the distant bearing of those rivers by ascending the
rising grounds. between the time of my A.M. and meridian Capt. C & myself
stroled out to the top of the hights in the fork of these rivers from whence we had an
extensive and most inchanting view; the country in every derection around us was one vast
plain in which innumerable herds of Buffalow were seen attended by their shepperds the
wolves; the solatary antelope which now had their young were distributed over it's face;
some herds of Elk were also seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground, the weather
was pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty mountains which we supposed to
be a continuation of the S. Mountains, streaching themselves from S.E. to N.W. terminating
abbrubtly about S. West from us; these were partially covered with snow; behind these
Mountains and at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of mountains appeared to
strech across the country in the same direction with the others, reaching from West, to
the N of N.W., where their snowey tops lost themselves beneath the horizon.
this last range was perfectly covered with snow. [The Highwood Mountains likely
made up the first range with the Little Belt and Big Belt ranges in the distance.]
the direction of the rivers could be seen but little way, soon loosing the break of their
channels, to our view, in the common plain. on our return to camp we boar a
little to the left and discovered a handsome little river [The Teton River, called
the Tansey River by the Captains, after the plant found along its banks; See June 6, 1805. It is a tributary of the Marias River.]
falling into the N. fork on Lard. side about 1 1/2 ms. above our camp. this
little river has as much timber in it's bottom ass either of the larger streams.
there are a great number of prickley pears in these plains; the Choke cherry
grows here in abundance both in the river bottoms and in the steep ravenes along the river
bluffs. saw the yellow and red courants, not yet ripe; also the goosberry which
begins to ripen; the wild rose which grows here in great abundance in the bottoms of all
these rivers is now in full bloom, and adds not a little to the bea[u]ty
of the cenery. we took the width of the two rivers, found the left hand or S. fork
372 yards and the N. fork 200. The noth fork is deeper than the other but it's
courant not so swift; it's waters run in ths same boiling and roling manner which has
uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout it's whole course so far; it's waters are
of a whitish brown colour very thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri;
while the South fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid but with a smoth unriffled
surface it's bottom composed of round and flat smooth stones like most rivers issuing from
a mountainous country. the bed of the N. fork composed of some gravel but
principally mud; in short the air & character of this river is so precisely that of
the missouri below that the party with very few exceptions have already pronounced the N.
fork to be the Missouri; myself and Capt. C. not quite so precipitate have not yet decided
but if we were to give our opinions I believe we should be in the minority, certain it is
that the North fork gives the colouring matter and character which is retained from hence
to the gulph of Mexico. I am confident that this river rises in and passes a great
distance through an open plain country I expect that it has some of it's
souces on the Eastern side of the rocky mountain South of the Saskashawan, but that it
dose not penetrate the first range of these Mountains and that much the greater part of
it's sources are in a northwardly direction towards the lower and middle parts of the
Saskashawan in the open plains. convinced I am that if it penetrated the Rocky
Mountains to any great distance it's waters would be clearer unless it should run an
immence distance indeed after leaving those mountains through these level plains in order
to acquire it's turbid hue. what astonishes us a little is that the Indians who appeared
to be so well acquainted with the geography of this country should not have mentioned this
river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the river that scolds at all others, as
they call it if there is in reallity such an one, ought agreeably to their account, to
have fallen in a considerable distance below, and on the other hand if this righthand or
N. fork be the Missouri I am equally astonished at their not mentioning the S. fork which
they must have passed in order to get to those large falls which they mention on the
Missouri. thus have our cogitating faculties been busily employed all day.
Those who have remained at camp today have been busily engaged in dressing skins for
cloathing, notwithstanding that many of them have their feet so mangled and bruised with
the stones and rough ground over which they passed barefoot, that they can scarcely walk
or stand; at least it is with great pain they do either. for some days past they were
unable to wear their mockersons; they have fallen off considerably, but notwithstanding
the difficulties past, or those which seem now to mennace us, they still remain perfectly
cheerfull. In the evening the parties whom we had sent out returned agreeably to
instructions. The parties who had been sent up the rivers in canoes informed that
they ascended some distance and had then left their canoes and walked up the rivers a
considerable distance further barely leaving themselves time to return; the North fork was
not so rappid as the other and afforded the easienst navigation of course; Six feet
appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch and 5 feet that of the N. Their
accounts were by no means satisfactory nor did the information we acquired bring us nigher
to the decision of our question or determine us which stream to take. Sergt. Pryor
hand [had] ascended the N. fork and had taken the following courses and
distances--vis--
| S. 60o W. |
2 |
mes. to some timber on the Lard. side |
| West |
2 |
to a point on the Stard. side, passing the entrance of a river at 1/2 m.
on Lard. side which was 60 yards wide and three feet deep boald. court. |
| N. 50o W. |
3 |
to a point on Lard. side |
| S. 80o W. |
3 |
to a point on Lard side.-- thence the river bares to the N of West
leaving a high hill to the Stard.-- |
| Sergt. Gass ascended the South
fork and took the following courses (viz.) |
| S. 30 W. |
1 |
mes. to a point Lard. passing three Islands. |
| South |
1 |
to the Lard. point of an Island |
| S. 60o E. |
2 |
to a tree on the Stard. side |
| N. 50o E |
1 |
to on object in a bank Lard. side opst. to the lower point of an Island. |
| S. 70o E |
1/2 |
to a tree on the Lard. side passing an Island |
| S. 10o E |
1 |
m. thence the general cource S 30 W. 5 mes. or as far as he could discover
the direction of the river. |
Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up the South fork
about 7 mes. on a streight course somewhat N of W. and that there the little river which
discharges itself into the North fork just above us, was within 100 yards of the S. fork;
that they came down this little river and found it a boald runing stream of about 40 yds.
wide containg much timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed
cottonwood [Narrowleaf Cottonwood, Populus angustifolia. See June 12, 1805 for a detailed description by Lewis. Clark calls
this tree the "cotton willow" in his entries of June 17,
1805 and July 16, 1805.] with some birch [Water,
or River, Birch, Betula occidentalis, new to science.] and box alder
undrgrowth willows rosebushes currents &c. they saw a great number of Elk
on this river and some beaver. Those accounts being by no means satisfactory as to
the fundamental point; Capt. C. and yself concluded to set out early the next morning with
a small party each, and ascend these rivers untill we could perfectly satisfy ourselves of
the one, which it would be most expedient for us to take on our main journey to the
Pacific. accordingly it was agreed that I should ascend the right hand fork
and he the left. I gave orders to Sergt. Pryor Drewyer, Shields, Windsor, Cruzatte
and La Page to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in the morning. Capt.
Clark also selected Reubin & Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass, Shannon and his black man
York, to accompany him. we agreed to go up those rivers one day and a halfs march or
further if it should appear necessry to ssatisfy us more fully of the point in question.
the hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today. the
evening proved cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and gave the men a dram,
and made all matters ready for an early departure in the morning. I had now my sack
and blanket happerst in readiness to swing on my back, which is the first time in my life
that I had ever prepared a burthen of this kind, and I am fully convinced that it will not
be the last. I take my Octant with me also, this I confide La Page.
June 03, 1805
William Clark
we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the two rivers, and dispatched a Canoe
& three men up each river to examine and find if possible which is the most probable
branch, the left fork which is the largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians do not mention
any river falling in on the right in this aprt of the Missouri, The Scolding river, if
there is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to their accts. we also
dispatched men in different dircts. by land, to a mountain Covered with Snow to the South
& other up each river-- Capt. Lewis and my elf walked out & assended the
hill in the point obsdrved a leavel open Countrey to the foot of the mountains which lye
South of this, also a River which falls into the Right hand fork about 1 1/2 miles above
its mouth on the Lard. Side this little river discharges a great deal of water
& contains as much Cotton timber in its bottoms as either of the others we
saw Buffalow & antelopes &c. wild Cheries, red & yellow burries,
Goose berries &c. abound in the river bottoms, prickley pares on the high
plains, we had a meridian altitude and the Lattd. produced was 47o 24' 12"
N. the after part of the day proved Cloudy, we measured each river and found the one
to Right hand 200 yards wide of water & the Left hand fork 372 yards wide &
rapid-- the right hand fork falling the other at a Stand and Clear, the right
fork and the river which fall into it is Coloured & a little muddey. Several men
Complain of their feet being Sore in waling in the Sand & their being Cut by the
Stones They to be Sure have a bad time of it obliged to walk on Shore &
haul the rope and 9/10 of their time bear footed, in the evening late the Canoes returned
and the men informed us that they had ascended Some miles by water & left their Canoes
& walked on land the greater part of the day, their accounts by no means Satisfactory,
Serjt. Pryor assended the right hand fork and took the following Courses, &c
| S. 60o W. |
2 |
to a timber on the Lard Side |
| West |
2 |
to a point on the Stard. Side passd. a River LS. 60 yds. wide
3 feet deep |
| N. 50o W |
3 |
to a point on the Lard Side |
| S. 80o W |
3 |
to a point on the Larrd. Side thence the river bears to the N.
of west leaveing a Knob to the right-- |
| Serjt. Gass assended the left
hand fork and took the following Courses viz. |
| S. 30o W. |
1 |
m to a pt. L.S. pass 2 Isds. |
| South |
1 |
mile to a Lard. point of an Island |
| S. 60o E. |
2 |
m. to a tree on the Starboard Side |
| N. 50o E |
1 |
m. to an object in the bank Lard. Side opsd. the Lower point of an Island |
| S. 70o E |
1 1/2 |
m: to a tree on the Lard. Side passing an Island Genl. cours
from there S. 30o W for 5 miles |
| S. 10o E. |
1 |
mile then S.W.-- |
Joseph & Rubin Fields went up the left fork 7 miles on a direct line at which
place, the Small river which falls into the right hand fork approaches within 100 yards of
the South fork, they Came down the Small river which is a bold Stream Covered with Elk
& Some beaver, its bottoms Covered with wood, as the Information given by those
parties respecting the rivers did not Satisfy us as to the main & principal branch
Capt. Lewis & my Self deturmined to go up each of those rivers one Day & a half
with a view to Satisfy ourselves which of the two was the principal Stream and best
calculate for us to assend-- The hunters Killed 2 buffalow, 6 Elk & Several deer
to day we refreshed our party with a dram &c. Cloudy
evining.--
June 03, 1805
John Ordway
we formed a Camp [Below the mouth of the Marias River where the expedition
remained until June 12, 1805.] on the point in the junction of the two rivers,
& two canoes & 3 men were dispached up each river to examine and find it possable
which is the most probable branch.[Pryor and his men went up the Marias while Gass
with a party went up the Missouri.] the left fork which is the
largest we are doubtful of. the Indians do not mention any river falling in on
the right in this part of the Missourie. The Scolding river, if their is Such a one
Should have fallen in below agreeable to their accts. men were dispached also
in different directions by land, to a mountain covred with Snow to the South.
& others up each river. the Captains walked out & assended the hill in
the point, they observed a level Country to the foot of the mountains which lye South of
this, also a River [Teton River, a tributary of the Marias, which the captains
called the Tansey River.] which falls into the Right hand fork about 1 1/2 miles
above its mouth on the Larboard Side. this little river descharges a great
deal of water & contains as much cotton timber in its bottoms as either of the
others. they Saw buffalow & antilopes wild Cherries red & yallow
berrys, Goose berrys &.C. abound in the river bottoms. prickley pairs on
the high plains. the Capts. had a meridian altitude and the Latitude produced
was 47o 24' 12" North. the after part of the day proved
Cloudy. Capt Clark measured each river & found the one to the Right hand 186
yards wide of water, & the left hand fork 372 yards wide and rapid. the
right hand fork falling the other at a Stand, and clear. the right fork and
the river which fall into it is couloured & a little muddy. Several of the party
complain of their feet being Sore by walking in the Sand, & their being cut by the
Stones we to be Sure have a hard time of it oblidged to walk on Shore &
hawl the rope and 9/10 of their time barefooted-- in the evening the parties
all returned to Camp had been about 15 miles up each river, but could
not dtermine which would be our most probable branch for our Course &C.
our officers are not Satisfied in their minds which River will be best to for us to take.
So they determine to leave the crafts & the most of the men here & go one day
& a half up each river with a Small party to find out which will be the most probable
River for us to take &.C. the hunters killed 4 buffalow 3 Elk 3 beaver
& Several Deer our officers Gave Each man a Dram.--
[Beginnng with this date Ordway ceases copying Clark's journal. Part of his
material, however, is from the captain.]
June 03, 1805
Patrick Gass
We crossed over to the point between the two rivers and encamped there. [Below
the mouth of the Marias River. They remained at this location until June 12.]
The commanding oficers could not determine which of these rivers or branches, it
was proper to take; and therefore concluded to send a small party up each of them.
Myself and two men went up the South branch, and a serjeant and two more up the North. [Sergeant
Pryor and Private Whitehouse were two members of this party.] The parties
went up the two branches about 15 miles. We found the South branch rapid with a
great many islands and the general course South West. The other party reported the
North branch as less rapid, and not so deep as the other. The North branch is 186
yards wide and the South 372 yards. The water of the South branch is clear, and that
of the North muddy. About a mile and an half up the point from the confluence, a
handsome small river falls into the North branch, called Rose river. [Teton river,
a tributary of Marias River; it was also referred to as the Tansey River after a plant
found growing on its banks.] Its water is muddy, and the current
rapid. Captain Lewis took a meridian altitude at the point, which gave 47o
24 12 North latitude. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke were not yet satisfied with
respect to the proper river to ascend.
June 03, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a fair morning. we delayed untill 8 oClock then moved our Camp over to the
point between the two rivers. [Below the mouth of the Marias River, where they
remained until June 12 for the purpose of determining which branch was the Missouri.]
two Small canoes were unloaded and a Sergeant and 2 men I was one of
them Sent in each up the 2 rivers [Whitehouse went up the Missouri with the party
that included Sergeant Gass while Sergeant Pryor and his party went up the Marias.]
to See what discoveries they could make. Some men went out a hunting also.
their is 3 Islands in the mo. left hand river, which is the largest &
Swiftest river. Some men went out towards a mountain covred with Snow [The
Highwood Mountains.] to the South of this place. the Captains walked
out on the high hills in the point they observed a level country to the
foot of the mountain which lay South of this also a River which falls in
to the right hand fork [Teton River, a tributary of the Marias; they also called
it Tansey River, after a plant growing on its banks.] about 1 1/2 miles up from
the mouth on the Lard Side. This little River discharges a great deal of water &
contains as much cotton timber as either of the others. they Saw buffalow
& antilopes, wild cherries red & yallow berrys goose berrys, &c. abound in the
river bottoms, prickley pairs on the high plains the Captains had a
Meridian altitude & the Latitude produced was 47o 24" 12" North,
the after part of the day proved cloudy. Capt. Clark measured the each River &
found the one to the right hand to be 186 yards wide of water <& rapid> and the
left hand fork 372 yards wide & rapid, the right hand fork falling the other at a
Stand & clear. the right hand fork & the river which fall into it is
couloured, and a little muddy. Several of the party complain of their feet being
Sore by their walking in the Sand & cut by the Stones. we to be Sure have
a hard time of it oblidged to walk on Shore & haul the towing line and 9/10 of the
time barefooted. in the evening the men all returned had been about 15 miles
up each river but could not determine which was the Missourie, nor which would be our best
course. our officers & all the men differ in their opinions which river to
take. we expect the right hand fork would take us too far to the North, the left
hand fork we expect heads in the mountains. however the officers conclude to
leave the party here, and go by land with a Small party up each river, in order to find
out which will be the best for us to take. the hunters
killed 4 buffaloe 3 Elk 3 beaver & deer &c. the Capts. Gave each man a
dram of ardent Spirits.-- I killed 2 Elk myself to day, as I was up the left
fork as a Spye.--
June 03, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
This morning we had fine and clear weather, we remained at our Camp untill 8 oClock
A.M. when we removed over to a point lying between the Two Rivers, Two of our Crafts were
unloaded, and a Serjeant and two Men embark'd in each of them, in Order to go up each of
these Rivers to make discoveries; some Men were also sent out a hunting, & to make
discoveries likewise; and some others of the party, went out towards a mountain covered
with snow; lying to the Southward of the confluence of those 2 Rivers, 3 Islands lying in
the River which lay the most Southermost, The River which lays to the Southward-most, is
by far the largest & Swiftest running River.--
Our Captains went out to some high hills, which lay in the point of those two Rivers,
in Order to have a view of the Country, and make discoveries, They found that it was a
level country to the foot of a mountains lying South of this place, and a River which fell
into the North fork of these two Rivers, and that about One & a half Miles up from the
Mouth of the Fork of the River lying most northerly, on the South side of that fork, that
this little river emptied itself into it, and discharged a great quantity of water, and
was equally covered on both sides of that River with Cotton wood Trees, which is the same
with the forks of both these great Rivers; they likewise saw Buffalo, & antelopes in
great plenty, and found Wild cherries, red and Yellow berrys, Goose berries in abundance;
and prickly pears growing on the high plains.-- Our officers took an Observation
here with their Mathematical Instruments, and found the Latitude to be 47o 24'
12s North, the afternoon of this day was Cloudy.-- Captain Clark measured the width
of each those Rivers, and found the North fork of the River measured 186 Yards of water;
and the South fork measured 372 Yards of the same, & running rapidly, the Water in the
North fork of the River falling; and that of the South at a stand, & clear, The right
hand or North fork and the small River that empties itself into it Colour'd, and a little
muddy.-- Our party was complaining of their feet being very Sore Occssion'd by their
walking in the sand & cut by the stones in towing our Crafts, a greater part of them
being fatiauged & bare foot-- but still determin'd to prosecute the Voyage under ev'ry
difficulty.-- In the evening the Men that were sent out on discovery, and the
hunters returned.-- they reported that they had been fifteen Miles, up each of
those Rivers, but they could not determine, which was the Mesouri River,-- or
which would be our best course to take, a Council was held by our Officers, and the
opinion of our Men were all taken; but they differ'd in their Oppinions, and were at a
loss which /River to take, We expected that the right hand or North fork, Would take us
too far to the Northward, and that the left hand or South fork, head in the Mountains.--
The Officers came to a conclusion to leave the party here, and go with our hunters
by land, up each River, in order to find out which will be our best course to pursue; in
order to facilitate our Voyage.-- The Hunters killed this day 4 Buffalo, 3 Elk, 8
Beaver, and some few Deer.-- and one of the party that went up the South fork
of the River on discovery, killed 2 Elk, the Game of all kinds being plenty on both these
Rivers. Our Officers in the Evening gave each of the party a dram of Ardent spirits
|