June 04, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
This morning early Capt. C. departed, and at the same time I passed the wright hand
fork opposite to our camp below a small Island; from hence I steered N. 30 W. 4 1/2 to a
cammanding eminence; here I took the follown bearings of the mountains which were in view.
[See Clark's entry of June 8, 1805.] The
North Mountains [The Bears Paw Mountains.] appear to change their
direction from that of being parallel with the Missouri turning to the North and
terminating abruptly; their termineation bearing N. 48o E distant by estimate
30 mes. The South Mountains [The Highwood Mountains.] appear to
turn to the S. also terminating abrubtly, their extremity bearing S. 8 W. distant 25 mes.
The Barn Mountain [Square Butte, east of the Highwood Mountains and south
of Geraldine, Montana.], a lofty mountain so called from it's resemblance to the
roof of a large Barn, is a seperate Mountain and appears reather to the wright of and
retreating from the extremity of the S. mts; this boar S. 38 W. distant 35 ms. The
North fork which I am now ascending lies to my left and appeaers to make a considerable
bend to the N.W. on it's Western border a range of hills about 10 mes. long
appear to lye parallel with the river and from hence bear N. 60o W.
to the N. of this range of hills an Elivated point of the river bluff on it's
Lard. side boar N. 72o W. distant 12 mes. to this last object I now
directed my course through a high level dry open plain. the whole country in fact
appears to be one continued plain to the foot of the mountains or as far as the eye can
reach; the soil appears dark rich and fertile yet the grass is by no means as high nor
dose it look so luxurient as I should have expected, it is short just sufficient to
conceal the ground. great abundance of prickly pears which are extreemly
troublesome; as the thorns very readily perce the foot through the Mockerson; they are so
numerous that it requires one half of the traveler's attention to avoid them
In these plains I observed great numbers of the brown Curloos, a small
species of curloo or plover of a brown colour about the size of the common snipe and not
unlike it in form with a long celindric curved and pointed beak; it's wings are
proportionately long and the tail short; in the act of liteing this bird lets itself down
by an extention of it's wings without motion holding their points very much together above
it's back, in this rispect differing ascentially from any bird I ever observed. [Possibly
either the Long-Billed Curlew or the Eskimo Curlew, Numenius borealis.]
a number of sparrows also of three distinct species I observed.
also a small bird which in action resembles the lark [McCown's
Longspur, Calcarius mccownii, new to science.], it is about the size of
a large sparrow of a dark brown colour with some white fathers in the tail; this bird or
that which I take to be the male rises into the air about 60 feet and supporting itself in
the air with a brisk motion of the wings sings very sweetly, has several shrill soft notes
reather of the plaintive order which it frequently repeats and varies, after remaining
stationary about a minute in his aireal station he descends obliquely occasionly pausing
and accomnying his decension with a note something like twit twit twit; on the ground he
is silent. thirty or forty of these birds will be stationed in the air at a
time in view, these larks as I shall call them ad much to the gayety and cheerfullness of
the scene. All those birds are now seting and laying their eggs in the plains; their
little nests are to be seen in great abundance as we pass. there are meriads
of small grasshoppers in these plains which no doubt furnish the principal aliment of this
numerous progeny of the feathered creation. after walking about eight miles I
grew thisty and there being no water in the plains I changed my direction and boar
obliquely in towards the river, on my arrival at which about 3 mes. below the point of
observation, we discovered two deer at feed at some distance near the river; I here halted
the party and sent Drewyer to kill one of them for breakfast; this excellent hunter so[o]n
exceded his orders by killing of them both; they proved to be two Mule Bucks in fine
order; we soon kindled a fire cooked and made a heaerty meal. it was not yet
twelve when we arrived at the river and I was anxious to take the Meridian Altd. of the
sun but the clouds prevented my obtaining the observation. after refreshing
ourselves we proceded up the river to the extremity of the first course, from whence the
river boar on it's general course N. 15o W. 2 M. to a bluff point on Stard.
here Drewyer killed four other deer of the common kind; we skined them and
hung up a part of the meat and the skins as we did also of the first, and took as much of
the meat as we thought would answer for our suppers and proceeded N. 30 W. 2 m. to the
entrance of a Large creek on Lard. side [Sheep Coulee] the
part of the river we have passed is from 40 to 60 yds wide, is deep, has falling banks,
the courant strong, the water terbid and in short has every appearance of the missouri b[e]low
except as to size. it's bottoms narrow but well timbered. Salts coal and
other mineral appearances as usual; the bluffs principally of dark brown, yellow and some
white clay; some freestone also appears in places. The river now boar N. 20o
E. 12 mes. to a bluff on Lard. At the commencement of this course we ascended the
hills which are about 200 feet high, and passed through the plains about 3 m. but finding
the dry ravines so steep and numerous we determined to return to the river and travel
through it's bottoms and along the foot and sides of the bluffs, accordingly we again
reached the river about 4 miles from the commencement of the last course and encamped a
small distanc above on the Stard. side in a bend among the willow bushes which defended us
from the wind which blew hard from the N.W. it rained this evening and wet us
to the skin; the air was extremely could. just before we encamped Drewyer
fired at a large brown bar across the river and wounded him badly but it was too late to
pursue him. killed a braro and a beaver, also at the place of our encampment,
a very fine Mule deer. we saw a great number of Buffaloe, Elk, wolves and
foxes today. the river bottoms form one emence garden of roses, now in full
bloe.
June 04, 1805
William Clark
Capt. Lewis & my Self each with a Small party of men Set out early--
those who accompanied Capt Lewis were G. Drewyer Serjt. Pryor, J Shields, P.
Crusat J. B. de Page, R. Winser, went up the N. side of the N. fork. those who
accompanied me were Serjt. Gass Jos; & Ruben Fields G. Shannon & my black man
York, and we Set out to examine the South fork, our first Course was S. 25o W.
7 miles to the S. fork at a Spring, at which place the little river which falls into the
N. fork is 100 yards distant only Seperated from the South fork by a narrow ridge. [This
"narrow ridge" which separates the Teton River from the Missouri was later
called Cracon du Nez by French boatmen which translates as "bridge of the nose."
Today it is called Vimy Ridge.] our course from thence S. 20o
W. 8 miles to the river at an Island where we dined below a Small river falls in on the S
E Side which heads in a mountain to the S. E about 20 miles. [Snow River on
Clark's map. Later Shonkin Creek.] North of this place about 4 miles the
little river brakes thro' a high ridge into the open Leavel plain thro which we have
passd. from the point, this plalin is covered with low grass & prickley pear, emence
number of Prarie dogs or barking Squirel are thro this plain-- after eating we
proceeded on N. 45o W. Struck the river at 3 miles 5, 9 & 13 miles at
which place we encamped in an old Indian lodge made of Stiks and bark ["my
old camp" on two of Clark's maps and "W. Cs Camp 4 June" on a third. This
last does not agree with the other two which are probably correct. The camp was located
approximately 1 1/2 miles upstream from present Carter Ferry, Montana.] at
the river near our camp we saw two white Bear, one of them was nearly catching Joseph
Fields who could not fire, as his gun was wet the bear was So near that it
struck his foot, and we were not in a Situation to give him assistance, a Clift of rocks
Seperated us the bear got allarmed at our Shot & yells & took [to]
the river.-- Some rain all the afternoon Saw Several Ganues of Buffalow
at a distance in the open plains on each Side, Saw Mule deer antilopes & wolves--
The river is rapid & Closely himed on one or the other Side with high bluffs,
Crouded with Islands & graveley bars Containing but a Small quantity of timber on its
bottoms & none on the high land.
June 04, 1805
John Ordway
Capt. Lewis and 6 men Set out to go up the right hand fork. [Clark listed the
men in each of the detachments in his entry for this day. Ordway remained behind
with the main party.] Capt Clark & 5 more Set out at the Same
time to go up the left hand fork in order to go one day & a halfs march up the River
and see if they can find out which will be our best River to proceed on. Some of the
men at Camp killed 2 faun Elk near the point for their Skins to dress. the day
proved Cloudy. 2 men who had been from Camp a hunting returned towards
evening. had killed one Elk & a Deer & Set traps for beaver &C.
a fiew drops of rain towards evening & high cold wind from the North.
June 04, 1805
Patrick Gass
Captain Lewis with six [Including Pryor, Drouillard, Shields, Cruzatte, Jean
Baptiste LePage and Windsor.] men went up the North Branch, to see if they could
find any certain marks to determine whether that was the Missouri or not; and Captain
Clarke myself and four others [The two Fields brothers, Shannon and York.]
went up the South branch, for the same purpose with regard to that branch. About
eight miles above the confluence, the South branch and the small river which falls into
the North branch, are not more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and close on
the bank of the South branch is a beautiful spring where we refreshed ourselves with a
good drink of grog [Grog is mixture of Rum and water. This site is where the Teton
and Missouri rivers approach near one another. This site is also referred to as "Grog
Spring".]; and proceeded on through the high plains. Here nothing
grows but prickly pears[Plains Prickly Pear, Opuntia polyacantha.],
which are in abundance, and some short grass. We sent on about thirty miles and
found the river still extending in a South West direction. We saw a mountain [Highwood
Mountain.] to the South about 20 miles off, which appeared to run East and West,
and some spots on it resembling snow. In the evening we went towards the river to
encamp, where one of the men [Joseph Fields] having got down to a small
point of woods on the bank, before the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he-bear,
and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards from him, but the bank there was so
steep we could not get down to his assistance: we, however, fired at the animal from the
place where we stood and he went off without injuring the man. Having got down we
all encamped in an old Indian lodge for the night. [One or two miles upstream from
Carter Ferry.]
June 04, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
Capt. Lewis & 6 men [Lewis, Pryor, Drouillard, Shields, Cruzatte, and
LePage.] Set out to go up the Right hand fork. Capt. Clark & 5 more [Clark,
Gass, the Fields brothers, Shannon, and York.] Set out to go up the left hand
fork. they intend to go about one day & a halfs walk up the rivers & See what
discoveries they can make. Some of the men at camp killed 2 faun Elk close by the
camp for the Skins, to dress. the day proved cloudy. a fiew drops
of rain towards evening, & high cold wind from the N.E. 2 men who had been
from camp a hunting returned had killed an Elk & a Deer, & had Set 2 traps for
beaver. cloudy all day.--
June 04, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
We remained this day at the place, we encamped at Yesterday; in the forks of the
Rivers, The weather was Cloudy, Captain Lewis and Six hunters, set out to go up the North
fork of the River; and Captain Clark and five hunters, also set out to go up the South
fork, they intend going about One & a half days Journey up each River, in Order to
make discoveries, and to ascertain our right Course, and to determine which of those forks
was the Mesouri River, Some of the Men at our Camp killed 2 fawn Elk near it; those Fawn
Skins, we prepar'd to dress, to make moccasins, towards Evening the Wind rose from the
North east, and was Cold, Two of our Men that had went hunting from our Camp, returned.
They had killed an Elk, and one deer.--and had set 2 Traps to catch beaver.--
|