August 13, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
We set out very early on the Indian road which still led us through an open broken
country in a westerly direction. a deep valley appeared to our left at the base of a high
range of mountains which extended from S.E. to N.W. [The Lemhi Range and the
valley of the Lemhi River or Lewis's River] having their sides better clad with
pine timber than we had been accustomed to see the mountains and their tops were also
partially covered with snow. at the distance of five miles the road after leading us down
a long decending valley for 2 Ms. brought us to a large creek about 10 yds. wide; [Possibly
Pattee Creek] this we passed and on rising the hill beyond it had a view of
a handsome little valley to our left of about a mile in width through which from the
appearance of timber I conjectured that a river passed. I saw near the creek some bushes
of the white maple [Rocky Mountain Maple, Acer glabrium], the
<small> shumate [Either Skunkbush Sumac, Rhus trilobata or Poison
Ivy, R. radicans] of the small species with the winged rib, and a
species of honeysuckle much in it's growth and leaf like the small honeysuckle of the
Missouri only reather larger and bears a globular berry as large as a garden pea and as
white as wax [Common Snowberry, Symphoricarpos albus] this
berry is formed of a thin smooth pellicle which envellopes a soft white musilagenous
substance in which there are several small brown seed irregularly scattered or intermixed
without any sell or perceptable membranous covering.-- we had proceeded about four miles
through a wavy plain parallel to the valley or river bottom when at the distance of about
a mile we saw two women, a man and some dogs on an eminence immediately before us. they
appeared to vew us with attention and two of them after a few minutes set down as if to
wait our arrival we continued our usual pace towards them. when we had arrived
within half a mile of them I directed the party to halt and leaving my pack and rifle I
took the flag which I unfurled and avanced singly towards them the women soon disappeared
behind the hill, the man continued untill I arrived within a hundred yards of him and then
likewise absconded. tho' I frequently repeated the word tab-ba-bone sufficiently
loud for him to have heard it. I now haistened to the top of the hill where they had stood
but could see nothing of them. the dogs were less shye than their masters they came about
me pretty close I therefore thought of tying a handkerchief about one of their
necks with some beads and other trinkets and then let them loose to surch their fugitive
owners thinking by this means to convince them of our pacific disposition towards them but
the dogs would not suffer me to take hold of them; they also soon disappeared. I now made
a signal fror the men to come on, they joined me and we pursued the back tarck of these
Indians which lead us along the same road which we had been traveling. the
road was dusty and appeared to have been much traveled lately both by men and horses.
these praries are very poor the soil is of a light yellow clay, intermixed with small
smooth gravel, and produces little else but prickly pears, and bearded grass about 3
inches high . the prickley are of three species that with a broad leaf common to the
missouri; that of a globular form also common to the upper pa[r]t of the
Missouri and more especially after it enters the Rocky Mountains, also a 3rd peculiar to
this country.[The three species of cacti in this region are Plains Prickly Pear;
Pink Pincushion Cactus, Coryphantha vivipara; and Brittle, or Little, Prickly
Pear, Opuntia fragilis.] it consists of small circular thick
leaves with a much greater number of thorns. these thorns are stronger and appear to be
barbed. the leaves grow from the margins of each other as in the broad leafed
pear of the missouri, but are so slightly attatched that when the thorn touches your
mockeron it adhears and brings with it the leaf covered in every direction with many
others. this is much the most troublesome plant of the three. we had not continued our
rout more than a mile when we were so fortunate as to meet with three female
savages. the short and steep ravines which we passed concealed us from each other
untill we arrived within 30 paces. a young woman immediately took to flight,
an Elderly woman and a girl of about 12 years old remained. I instantly laid
by my gun and advanced towards them. they appeared much allarmed but saw that we were to
near for them to escape by flight they therefore seated themselves on the ground, holding
down their heads as if reconciled to die which the[y] expected no doubt
would be their fate; I took the elderly woman by the hand and raised her up repeated the
word tab-ba-bone and strip up my shirt sleve to sew her my skin; to prove to her
the truth of the ascertion that I was a white man for my face and hads which have been
constantly exposed to the sun were quite as dark as their own. they appeared instantly
reconciled, and the men coming up I gave these women some beads a few mockerson awls some
pewter looking-glasses and a little paint. I directed Drewyer to request the old woman to
recall the young woman who had run off to some distance by this time fearing she might
allarm the camp before we approached and might so exasperate the natives that they would
perhaps attack us without enquiring who we were. [Without the presence of
Sacagawea or Charbonneau the translation was likely accomplished by sign language, of
which Drouillard was proficient. See August 14, 1805.] the old woman did as she
was requested and the fugitive soon returned almost out of breath. I bestoed an equvolent
portion of trinket on her with the others. I now painted their tawny cheeks with some
vermillion which with this nation is emblematic of peace. after they had become composed I
informed them by signs that I wished them to conduct us to their camp that we wer anxious
to become acquainted with the chiefs and warriors of their nation. they readily obeyed and
we set out, still pursuing the road down the river. we had marched about 2 miles when we
met a party of about 60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in nearly full
speed, [Lewis had met the Lemhi Shoshones, a division of the Northern Shoshones of
the Rocky Mountains, known to the Great Plains tribes as "Snakes" or "Grass
Lodges." Unlike the Western Shoshones of the Great Basin, the Northern
Shoshones had acquired horses in the years after 1700 and had become buffalo hunters on
the plains. Therefore they were greatly influenced by plains culture. They had
been driven west of the Continental Divide by Blackfeet and other tribes. They were
still subject to raids west of the divide, and their hunts on the plains were attended
with great risk. Their meeting with Lewis was possibly their first direct contact
with whites, even though they possessed trade goods, including a few guns, that had come
to them from other Indians.] when they arrived I advanced towards them with the
flag leaving my gun with the party about 50 paces behid me. the chief and two others
who were a little in advance of the main body spoke to the women, and they informed them
who we were and exultingly shewed the presents which had been given them these
men then advanced and embraced me very affectionately in their way which is by puting
their left arm over you wright sholder clasping your back, while they apply their left
cheek to yours and frequently vociforate the word ah-hi-e, ah-hi-e that is, I
am much pleased, I am much rejoiced. bothe parties now advanced and we wer all carresed
and besmeared with their grease and paint till I was heartily tired of the national hug. I
now had the pipe lit and gave them smoke; they seated themselves in a circle around us and
pulled of[f] their mockersons before they would receive or smoke the
pipe. this is a custom among them as I afterwards learned indicative of a sacred
obligation of sincerity in their profession of friendship given by the act of receiving
and smoking the pipe of a stranger. or which is as much as to say that they wish they may
always go bearfoot if they are not sincere; a pretty heavy penalty if they are to march
throught the plains of their country. after smoking a few pipes with them I distributed
some trifles among them, with which they seemed much pleased particularly with the blue
beads and vermillion. I now informed the chief that the object of our visit was a friendly
one, that after we should reach his camp I would undertake to explain to him fully those
objects, who we wer, from whence we had come and wither we were going; that in the mean
time I did not care how soon we were in motion, as the sun was very warm and no water at
hand. they now put on their mockersons, and the principal chief Ca-me-ah-wait made
a short speach to the warriors. I gave him the flag which I informed him was an emblem of
peace among whitemen and now that it had been received by him it was to be respected as
the bond of union between us. I desired him to march on, which did and we followed him;
the dragoons moved on in squadron in our rear. after we had marched about a mile in this
order he halted them ang gave a second harang; after which six or eight of the young men
road forward to their encampment and no further regularity was observed in the order of
march. I afterwards understood that the Indians we had first seen this morning had
returned and allarmed the camp; these men had come out armed cap a pe [head to
foot, referring to knights in full armor] for action expecting to meet with their
enemies the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie whom they Call Pah-kees. they were armed with b[o]ws
arrow and Shield except three whom I observed with small pieces such as the N. W. Company
furnish the natives with which they had obtained from the Rocky Mountain Indians on the
yellow stone river with whom they are at peace. on our arrival at their encampmen [about
seven miles north of present Tendoy, Lemhi County, on the east bank of the Lemhi River]
on the river in a handsome level and fertile bottom at the distance of 4 Ms. from where we
had first met them they introduced us to a londge made of willow brush and an old leather
lodge which had been prepared for our reception by the young men which the chief had
dispatched for that purpose. Here we were seated on green boughs and the skins of
Antelopes. one of the warriors then pulled up the grass in the center of the lodge forming
a smal circle of about 2 feet in diameter the chief next produced his pipe and
native tobacco and began a long cerimony of the pipe when we were requested to take of[f]
our mockersons, the Chief having previously taken off his as well as all the warriors
present. this we complyed with; the Chief then lit his pipe at the fire kindled in this
little magic circle, and standing on the oposite side of the circle uttered a speach of
several minutes in length at the conclusion of which he pointed the stem to the four
cardinal points of the heavens first begining at the East and ending with the North.
he now presented the pipe to me as if desirous that I should smoke, but when I
reached my hand to receive it, he drew it back and repeated the same cremony three times,
after which he pointed the stem first to the heavens then to the center of the magic
circle smoked himself with three whifs and held the pipe untill I took as many as I
thought proper; he then held it to each of the white persons and then gave it to be
consumed by his warriors. this pipe was made of a dense simitransparent green stone very
highly polished about 2 1/2 inches long and of an oval figure, the bowl being in the same
direction with the stem. a small piece of birned clay is placed in the bottom of the bowl
to seperate the tobacco from the end of the stem and is of an irregularly rounded figure
not fitting the tube purfectly close in order that the smoke may pass. this is the form of
the pipe.

their tobacco [Nicotiana quadrivalvis] is of the same kind of
that used by the Minnetares Mandans and Ricares of the Missouri. the Shoshonees do not
cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians and some of the bands
of their own nation who live further south. I now explained to them the objects of our
journey &c. all the women and children of the camp were shortly collected about the
lodge to indulge themselves with looking at us, we being the first white persons they had
ever seen. after the cerimony of the pipe was over I distributed the remainder of the
small articles I had brought with me among the women and children. by this time it was
late in the evening and we had not taisted any food since the evening before. the Chief
informed us that they had nothing but berries to eat and gave us some cakes of
serviceberries and Choke cherries which had been dryed in the sun; of these I made a
hearty meal, and then walked to the river, which I found about 40 yards wide very raid
clear and about 3 feet deep. the banks low and abrupt as those of the upper part of the
Missouri, and the bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Cameahwait informed me that this
stream discharged itself into another doubly as large at the distance of half a days march
which came from the S. W. [Salmon River] but he added on further enquiry
that there was but little more timber below the junction of those rivers than I saw here,
and that the river was confined between inacessable mountains, was very rapid and rocky
insomuch that it was impossible for us to pass either by land or water down this river to
the great lake where the white men lived as he had been informed. this was unwelcome
information but I still hoped that this account had been exagerated with a view to detain
us among them. as to timber I could discover not any that would answer the purpose of
constructing canoes or in short more than was bearly necessary for fuel consisting of the
narrow leafed cottonwood and willow, also the red willow Choke Cherry [The
"red willow" is Red Osier Dogwood, Cornus sericea; "Choke
Cherry" is Prunnus virginiana melanocarpa.] service berry and a few
currant bushes such as were common on the Missouri. these people had been attacked
by the Minetares of Fort de prarie this spring and about 20 of them killed and taken
prisoners. on this occasion they lost a great part of their horses and all their lodges
except that which they had erected for our accomodation; they were now living in lodges of
a conic figure made of willow brush. I still observe a great number of horses feeding in
every direction around their camp and therefore entertain but little doubt but we shall be
enable to furnish ourselves with an adiquate number to transport our stores even if we are
compelled to travel by land over these mountains. on my return to my lodge an indian
called me in to his bower and gave me a small morsel of the flesh of an antelope boiled,
and a peice of a fresh salmon roasted; both which I eat with a very good relish. this was
the first salmon I had seen and perfectly convinced me that we were on the waters of the
Pacific Ocean. the course of this river is a little to the North of west as far as I can
discover it; and is bounded on each side by a range of high Mountains. tho' those on the
E. side are lowest and more distant from the river.-- [The Lemhi Range lay to the
west and the Beaver head Mountains to the east.]
This evening the Indians entertained us with their dancing nearly all night. at 12
O'Ck. I grew sleepy and retired to rest leaving the men to amuse themselves with the
Indians. I observe no essential difference between the music and manner of dancing among
this nation and those of the Missouri. I was several times awoke in the course of the
night by their yells but was too much fortiegued to be deprived of a tolerable sound
night's repose.
This morning Capt Clark set out early having previously dispatched some hunters ahead.
it was cool and cloudy all the forepart of the day. at 8 A.M. they had a slight rain. they
passed a number of shoals over which they were obliged to drag canoes; the men in the
water 3/4ths of the day, the[y] passed a bold runing stream 7 yds wide on
the Lard. side just below a high point of Limestone rocks. this stream we call McNeal's
Creek after Hugh McNeal one of our party [Blacktail Deer Creek which reaches the
Beaverhead at Dillon, Montana]. this creek heads in the Mountains to the East and
forms a handsome valley for some miles between the mountains. from the top of this
limestone Clift above the creek The beaver's head boar N 24o E. 12 Ms. the
course of Wisdom river [Big Hole River] or that which the opening of it's
valley makes through the mountains is N. 25 W. to the gap through which Jefferson's river
enters the mountains above is S 18o W 10M. they killed one deer only today. saw
a number of Otter some beaver Antelopes ducks gees and Crains. they caught a number of
fine trout as they have every day since I left them. they encamped on Lrd. in a smooth
level prarie near a few cottonwood trees, [A few miles southwest of Dillon, in
Beaverhead County, and north of where Montana Highway 41 crosses the Beaverhead and joins
Interstate Highway 15.] but were obliged to make use of the dry willow brush for
fuel.--
Courses and distances travelled by Capt. Clark. August 13th
1805.
South |
1 |
to a point of rocks about 70 feet high on Stard. distance by water 4 Mt
passing the head of the Island. at 2 1/2 Ms. opposite to which we encamped last evening.
also the entrance of a bold Creek 7 Yds wide on lard. behind an Isld. this we called
McNeal's Creek, after Hugh McNeal of our party.-- |
S. 30o W. |
4 |
to a Clift of high rocks on the Stard. side distance by water 12 M.
passing several islds. and bayous on either side the river very crooked and bends
short. |
Miles |
5 |
|
August 13, 1805
William Clark
a verry Cool morning the Thermometer Stood at 52 a o all the fore part of the day.
Cloudy at 8 oClock a mist of rain we proceeded on passed inumerable Sholes obliged to haul
the boat 3/4 of the Day over the Shole water. passed the mouth of a bold running Stream 7
yards wide on the Lard Side below a high Point of Limestone rocks on the Stard Side this
Creek heads in the mountains to the easte and forms a Vallie between two mountains. Call
this stream McNeal Creek From the top of this rock the--
Point of the Beaver had hill bears N. 24o E 12 ms.
The Course of the Wisdom river is-- N. 25o W.
The gap at the place the river passes thro' a mountain in advance is--
S. 18o W. 10 ms.
proceeded on and Encamped on the Lard side no wood except dry willows and them Small,
one Deer killed to day. The river obliges the men to undergo great fatigue and labour in
hauling the Canoes over the Sholes in the Cold water naked.
August 13, 1805
John Ordway
Cloudy. we Set out as usal and proceeded on. Several hunters to hunt.
passed a handsome Spring run [Probably Blacktail Deer Creek at Dillon. Lewis &
Clark called it McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal] which came in on L. Side
the hills make nearer the River. the valley not So wide as below & a little
higher. Smooth plains covred with grass & Sun flowers &C. Saw Some pine timber on
the high hills back from the River. we halted and took breakfast at a high clift of
rocks on L. Side the hills above make near the River on the L. Side. we
proceeded on the current rapid. the plains continues on the L. Side and hills
along the Stard. Side. a fiew Scattering cotton trees along the River. in the
afternoon the current more gentle. we had caught a nomber of fine Trout this Several
days passed high clifts of rocks and fine Springs on S. Side Saw a nomber of
large otter diveing in the River before us. Saw bald eagles ducks &.C. we took
on board a deer the hunters had killed. Came 15 miles this day and camped on the Smooth
prarie on L. Side Capt Clark Shot a duck. considerable of flax in these
praries. Some of the party Saw Some of the Seed. 2 of the hunters have not joined us
this evening. the mountains appear near a head of us.--
August 13, 1805
Patrick Gass
A cloudy morning. We set out early, through rapid water; the river being crooked and
narrow, and passed a small creek on the south side. [Blacktail Deer Creek]
The Weather was cold during the whole of this day. We went 16 miles and
encamped in a beautiful plain on the South side.
August 13, 1805
Joeseph Whitehouse
cloudy. we Set out as usal & proceeded on. Several hunters
out a hunting. passed a handsom Spring run [Blacktail Deer Creek,
named McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal of the party, which reaches the Beaverhead River at
Dillon.] on the L. Side. the hills make a little nearer the River.
the valley not So wide & a little higher dry and Smoth. Sun
flowers & grass Some places high & other places Short. Some pine
timber back on the high hills. we halted & took breakfast near a high
clift of rocks on L. Side above which the hills make near the River. proceeded
on. the current rapid the plain continues on L. Side and hills on
S. Side. Some Scattering cotton trees along the River. we have caught a
nomber of Trout in this Stream. in the afternoon we passed fine Springs &
clifts of rocks on s. Side. the current not So rapid in the afternoon Saw a
nomber of large otter along the River. Saw bald eagels [Bald Eagle, Haliaeetus
leucocephalus] ducks & c. took on board a Deer which the
hunters killed. Came 15 miles this day and Camped [A few miles
southwest of Dillon] on the Smooth prarie on L. S. Capt. Clark Shot a
duck. considerable of flax in these praries. Some of the men Save
Some of the Seed. 2 hunters did not join us this evening.--
August 13, 1805
Joeseph Whitehouse
This morning we had Cloudy weather, We set out Early, and proceeded on our Voyage, We
sent several of our hunters out a hunting; We passed a handsome spring run, lying on the
South side of the River; The hills make in nearer to the River, as we came along this day,
& the Valleys are not so wide, the Valleys laying, higher, and are dryer, than they
have been for several days past, & lay level, producing Sun flowers, high Grass
&ca-- The Hills which lies a small distance back from the River, having
some Pine timber growing on them.-- We halted & took break fast, near a
high Clift of Rocks, lying on the South side of the River, <near to which lay a high
Clift of rocks,> The current of the River running very rapid, the whole of the way,
since we started this morning, and we passed by many very rapid places. We
proceeded on a 9 oClock A. M <we> & contined on our way, the current still
continuing the same, the Plalins lying on the South side of the River, and some scattering
Cotton wood trees growing along its banks; we caught a number of fine trout, by gigging
them & with the hook & line-- In the afternoon we passed a fine spring,
& high Clifts of rocks, which lay on the South side of the River; The current did not
run so rapid, as it had done this morning, We saw a number of Bald eagles & Ducks the
latter were in the River; We stopped and took in a deer, which our Hunters had left on the
bank of the River, which they had killed. We came 15 Miles this day, and
encamped on a smooth priari, lying on the South side of the River, where Captain Clark
shot a Duck, <in this Prairie> we found fine flax growing here. 2 of our
hunters did not join us this evening.--
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