August 16, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
I sent Drewyer and Shields before this morning in order to kill some meat as neither
the Indians nor ourselves had any thing to eat. I informed the ceif of my view in this
measure, and requested that he would keep his young men with us lest by their hooping and
noise they should allarm the game and we should get nothing to eat, but so strongly were
there suspicions exited by this measure that two parties of discovery immediately set out
one on ech side of the valley to watch the hunters as I beleive to see whether they had
not been sent to give information of their approach to an enemy that they still preswaided
themselves were lying in wait for them.. I saw that any further effort to prevent their
going would only add strength to their suspicions and therefore said no more. after
the hunters had been gone about an hour we set out. we had just passed through the
narrows when we saw one of the spies comeing up the level plain under whip, the chief
pawsed a little and seemed somewhat concerned. I felt a good deel so myself and began to
suspect that by some unfortunate accedent that perhaps some of there enimies had straggled
hither at this unlucky moment; but we were all agreeably disappointed on the arrival of
the young man to learn that he had come to inform us that one of the whitemen had killed a
deer. in an instant they all gave their horses the whip and I was taken nearly a
mile before I could learn what were the tidings; as I was without tirrups and an Indian
behind me the jostling was disagreeable I therefore reigned up my horse and forbid
the indian to whip him who had given him the lash at every jum for a mile fearing he
should loose a part of the feast. the fellow was so uneasy that he left me the horse
dismounted and ran on foot at full speed, I am confident a mile. when they arrived
where the deer was which was in view of me they dismounted and run in tumbling over each
other like a parcel of famished dogs each seizing and tearing away a part of the intestens
which had been previously thrown out by Drewyer who killed it; the seen was such when I
arrived that had I not have had a pretty keen appetite myself I am confident I should not
have taisted any part of the venison shortly. each one had a peice of some discription and
all eating most ravenously. some were eating the kidnies the melt [The spleen.]
and liver and the blood runing from the corners of their mouths, others were in a similar
situation with the paunch and guts but the exuding substance in this case from their lips
was of a different discription. one of the last who att[r]acted my
attention particularly had been fortunate in his allotment or reather active in the
division, he had provided himself with about nine feet of the small guts one end of which
he was chewing on while with his hands he was squezzing the contents out at the other. I
really did not untill now think that human nature ever presented itself in a shape so
nearly allyed to the brute creation. I viewed these poor starved divils with pity and
compassion I directed McNeal to skin the deer and reserved a quarter, the ballance I gave
the Chief to be divided among his people; they devoured the whole of it nearly without
cooking. I now boar obliquely to the left in order to interscept the creek where there was
some brush to make a fire, and arrived at this stream where Drewyer had killed a second
deer; here nearly the same seene was encored. a fire being kindled we cooked and eat
and gave the ballance of the two deer to the Indians who eat the whole of them even to the
soft parts of the hoofs. Drewyer joined us at breakfast with a third deer. of
this I reserved a quarter and gave the ballance to the Indians. they all appeared
now to have filled themselves and were in a good humour. this morning early soon
after the hunters set ut a considerable part of our escort became allarmed and returned
28 men and three women only continued with us. after eating and suffering the
horses to graize about 2 hours we renued our march and towads evening arrived at the lower
part of the cove Shields killed an Antelope on the way a part of which we took and
gave the remainder to the Indians. being now informed of the place at which I
expected to meat Capt C. and the party they insisted on making a halt, which was complyed
with. we now dismounted and the Chief with much cerimony put tippets about our necks
such as they t[h]emselves woar I readily perceived that this was to
disguise us and owed it's origine to the same cause already mentioned. to give
them further confidence I put my cocked hat with feather on the chief and my over shirt
being of the Indian form my hair deshivled and skin well browned with the sun I wanted no
further addition to make me a complete Indian in appearance the men followed
my example and we were so[o]n completely metamorphosed. I again repeated
to them the possibility of the party not having arrived at the place which I expected they
were, but assured them they could not be far below, lest by not finding them at the forks
their suspicions might arrise to such hight as to induce them to return precipitately.
we now set out and rode briskly within sight of the forks making one of the Indians
carry the flag that our own party should know who we were. when we arrived in
sight at the distance of about 2 miles I discovered to my mortification that the party had
not arrived, and the Indians slackened their pace. I now scarcely new what to do and
feared every moment when they would halt altogether, I now determined to restore their
confidence cost what it might and therefore gave the Chief my gun and told him that if his
enimies were in those bushes before him that he could defend himself with that gun, that
for my own part I was not affraid to die and if I deceived him he might make what uce of
the gun he thought proper or in other words that he might shoot me. the men also
gave their guns to other indians which seemed to inspire them with more confidence; they
sent their spies before them at some distance and when I drew near the place [The
junction of Horse Prairie Creek and Red Rock River.] I thought of the notes which
I had left and directed Drewyer to go with an Indian man and bring them to me which he
did. the indian seeing him take the notes from the stake on which they had been
plased I now had recource to a stratagem in which I thought myself justifyed by the
occasion, but which I must confess set a little awkward. it had it's desired effect.
after reading the notes which were the same I had left I told the Chief that when I
had left my brother Chief with the party below where the river entered the mountain that
we both agreed not to bring the canoes higher up than the next forks of the river above us
wherever this might happen, that there he was to wait my return, should he arrive first,
and that in the event of his not being able to travel as fast as usual from the difficulty
of the water, that he was to send up to the first forks above him and leave a note
informing me where he was, that this note was left here today and that he informed me that
he was just below the mountains and was coming on slowly up, and added that I should wait
here for him, but if they did not beleive me that I should send a man at any rate to the
Chief and they might also send one of their young men with him, that myself and two others
would remain with them at this place. this plan was readily adopted and one of the
young men offered his services; I promised him a knife and some beads as a reward for his
confidence in us. most of them seemed satisfyed but there were several that
complained of the Chief's exposing them to danger unnecessarily and said that we told
different stories, in short a few were much dissatisfyed. I wrote a note to Capt. Clark by
the light of some willow brush and directed Drewyer to set out early being confident that
there was not a moment to spare. the chief and five or six others slept about my
fire and the others hid themselves in various parts of the willow brush to avoid the enimy
whom they were fearfull would attack them in the course of the night. I now entertained
various conjectures myself with rispect to the cause of Capt. Clarks detention and was
even fearfull that he had found the river so difficult that he had halted below the
Rattlesnake bluffs. I knew that if these people left me that they would immediately
disperse and secrete themselves in the mountains where it would be impossible to find them
or at least in vain to pursue them and that they would spread the allarm to all other
bands within our reach & of course we should be disappointed in obtaining horses,
which would vastly retard and increase the labour of our voyage and I feared might so
discourage the men as to defeat the expedition altogether. my mind was in reallity
quite as gloomy all this evening as the most affrighted indian but I affected
cheerfullness to keep the Indians so who were about me. we finally laid down and the
Chief placed himself by the side of my musquetoe bier. I slept but little as might
be well expected, my mind dwelling on the state of the expedition which I have ever held
in equal estimation with my own existence, and the fait of which appeared at this moment
to depend in a great measure upon the caprice of a few savages who are ever as fickle as
the wind. I had mentioned to the chief several times that we had with us a woman of his
nation who had been taken prisoner by the Minnetare, and that by means of her I hoped to
explain myself more fully than I could do by signs. some of the party had also told
the Indians that we had a man with us who was black and had short curling hair, this had
excited their curiossity very much. and they seemed quite as anxious to see this
monster as they wer[e] the merchandize which we had to barter for their
horses.
at 7 A M. Capt. C. set out after breakfast. he changed the hands in some of the
canoes; they proceeded with more ease than yesterday, yet they found the river still rapid
and shallow insomuch that they were obliged to drag the large canoes the greater part of
the day. the water excessively cold. in the evening they passd several bad
rapids. considerable quantities of buffaloe clover grows along the narrow bottoms
through which they passed. there was no timber except a few scatiring small pine on
the hills. willow service berry and currant bushes were the growth of the river
bottoms. they geatherd considerable quantities of service berries, and caught some
trout. one deer was killed by the hunters who slept out last night. and did
not join the party untill 10 A.M. Capt. Clark sent the hunter this evening up to the forks
of the river which he discovered from an eminence; they mus have left this place but a
little time before we arrived. this evening they encamped on the Lard. side only a
few miles below us. [Approximately four miles, by Clark's estimate, below the
forks of the Beaverhead and the present Clark Canyon Dam.] and were obliged
like ourselves to make use of small willow brush for fuel. the men were much
fatigued and exhausted this evening.
Courses and distances traveled by Capt. Clark August 16th 1805.
S. 18o W. |
3 |
to a lard. bend under a low bluff, distance by water 7 M. the river
bending to the Stard. under some high land, very crooked narrow shallow and small.
passed several Islands 4 of which were opposite to each other. called this service
berry Valley, from the great abundance of that fruit found here. |
S. 12o W. |
2 |
to a high Clift on the Stard side, distance by water 4 M. passd several
Islds. and bayous on either Side. |
S. 50o E. |
1 |
to the entrance of a bold running stream on lard. side, distance by water
2 1/2 M. at this place there is a very considerable rapid and clifts near on both
sides |
S. 45o W. |
1/2 |
mile to the lower point of an Island near the center of the Valley and
river. |
Miles |
6 1/2 |
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August 16, 1805
William Clark
as this morning was cold and the men fatigued Stiff and Chilled deturmined me to detain
& take brackfast before I Set out. I changed the hands and Set out at 7 oClock
proceeded on Something better than yesterday for the fore part of the Day passed
Several rapids in the latter part of the day near the hills river passed between 2
hills I saw a great number of Service berries now ripe. the Yellow
Current are also Common I observe the long leaf Clover [Clark's "long
leaf Clover" is the same as Lewis's "buffaloe clover" of this day and of
August 8.] in great plenty in the vallie below this vallie-- Some fiew
tres on the river no timber on the hills or mountn. except a fiew Small Pine &
Cedar. The Thmtr. Stood at 48o a. o at Sunrise wind S W. The
hunters joined me at 1 oClock, I dispatched 2 men to prosue an Indian roade over the hills
for a fiew miles, at the narrows I assended a mountain from the top of which I could See
that the river forked near me the left hand appeared the largest & bore
S.E. the right passed from the West thro' an extensive Vallie, I could See but three
Small trees in any direction from the top of this mountain. passed an Isld. and
Encamped ion the Lard. Side the only wood was Small willows
August 16, 1805
John Ordway
a clear morning but verry cold. the Thurmometer Stood at 47o. the
water so cold that we delayed until after we took breakfast. one hunter out this morning.
2 hunters Stayed out last night. we proceeded on as usal. passed a
hundsom Spring run [Possibly "bold run" or todays Gallagher Creek]
on the Stard. Side 10 yds. on L. Side. Some timber on it. we find the current
Swift the river Shallow we are oblidged to hall the large canoes the most of the
time. Capt Clark our Intrepter & wife walked on Shore and found a great quantity of
Servis berrys the largest & best I ever saw. they gethered a pale full &. C. Gave
them out to the party at noon where we halted to dine at a grove of cotton trees on L.
Side. Saw a nomber of bald & grey Eagles &C. our hunters who went out
this morning killed a verry large buck. the bottoms on the River narrow we
name this place Servis berry valley. the hunters who Stayed out last night joined us here
and informed us that the River forks [This the party's East Fork Jefferson and
West Fork Jefferson which is todays Red Rock River and Horse Prairie Creek, respectively]
again only about 6 miles by land from this & that each fork was Shallow. 2
hunters sent on to the forks to hunt we proceeded on passed up Sholes &
rapids towards evening we passed up a verry bad rockey rapid which was difficult to
pass over. we were oblidged to waid and hale the canoes over the large rocks &C.
we passed a fine Spring on S. Side and a run [Possibly Clark Canyon Creek]
on L. Side high clifts of rocks & hills on each Side found pleanty of
currents on the banks. the water not So Swift above the bad rapid. we Came [blank]
miles and Camped on a narrow bottom on L. Side no timber. we gethered Small
willow Sticks only to boil our venison. the veaver verry pleanty &C--
August 16, 1805
Patrick Gass
We did not set out till after breakfast, and while here one of the men went out and
killed a fine buck. We proceeded through rapid water; the river is very narrow, crooked
and shallow. This morning we passed a place where the hills come close to the river for a
short distance, and then open on each side of a small valley, which, on account of the
great quantity of service berries in it, we called Service-berry Valley. We passed over a
rapid of about a quarter of a mile, and encamped on the South side, having come 15 miles.
August 16, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
a clear but verry cold morning. the Thurmometer Stood at 47 degrees. the water So
cold that we delayed untill after breakfast. one hunter out on a head. we
proceeded on as usal the current Swift passed a hansom Spring run [Possibly
Gallagher Creek] on L. Side on which is a fiew cotton trees. Capt.
Clark our Intrepter & wife walked on Shore and found a great nomber of fine berrys
which is called Servis berrys. our Ints. wife gethered a pale full & gave
them to the party at noon where we halted at a grove of cotton trees on L. S.
our hunter who went out this morning killed a verry large buck. two of our
hunters Stayed out last night, & have not returned yet we name this place
Servis valley, from the abundance of these berrys along under the hills
&c. the 2 hunters joined us here & Informed us that the River forks [The
forks of the Beaverhead.] in about 5 miles a Strait course by land & they
think we can go no further than the forks with the crafts. 2 hunters Sent on
to the forks to kill meat. we proceeded on over verry Shallow & Swift
water passed up a verry bad rockey rapid where we had to waid up to our middle
& hale the canoes over the rapids. Saw Several fine Springs & a run
above the bad rapid passed high clifts of rocks and high hills on each Side.
fund pleanty of currents. the water not So bad above the rapid.
Came [blank] miles this day and Camped [About 4 miles below the
forks of the Beaverhead and Clark Canyon Dam.] on a narrow bottom on L.
Side. no timber we could Scarsely find any but Small willow to
boil our venison.
August 16, 1805
Joseph Whitehouse
We had a Clear, but very cold morning, the Thermometer stood at 47o-- from
0, and the water in the River so cold, that we delayed starting 'till after breakfast; One
of our hunters was sent on a head, We proceeded on our Voyage at 8 o'Clock A. M. the
Current of the River running very strong,-- We passed a handsome spring run, lying
on the South side of the River, near to which was a few Cotton wood trees. Our
interpreters Wife (the Indian Woman) went on shore & found a great number of fine
berries, which is call'd service berries. the Indian Woman gathered a pailfull
of those berries, which she brought to our party at noon, where we halted which was at a
Grove of Cotton trees lying on the South side of the River. Our hunter that
went out this morning, killed a very fine buck Deer, which he brought to us.
Two of our Hunters that went out Yesterday had not yet returned. This place
being in a Valley, Captain Clark name <this place> it Service Valley, on account of
the number of berries, that grew in it called Service berries, Our two hunters that were
out came to us, just as we were starting; and informed us that the River forked about 5
Miles ahead, on a strait Course by land, and that it is their opinion, that we can go no
further than those forks with our crafts, Captain Clark dispatch'd two of our hunters off,
to thise forks, to provide some Meat for us, against we arrived there. We
proceeded on at 2 oClock P. M. & found the River running very Rapid &
shallow. We passed up a bad Rapid which was very Rockey; the party had to wade
up to their middles in Order to hall the Canoes over it.--
We saw several fine springs, & a run which lay above this bad rapid, and high
Clifts of rocks & high hills lying on both sides of the River; We found a great
pleanty of currants, growing along the Shore, The current of the River did not run so
strong, nor the River is not so shallow above the rapids, as it was for some distance
below.-- We came 13 Miles this day, and encamped in a narrow bottom, lying on the
South side of the River. We found no timber here, and was obliged to use small dry
Willow bushes, for fuel to boil our meat
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