June 17, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
We collected our horses and set out early; we proceeded down hungry creek about
seven miles passing it twice; we found it difficult and dangerous to pass the creek
in consequence of its debth and rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek by
ascending a very steep rocky and difficult hill. beyond this creek the road ascends
the mountain to the high of the main leading ridges which divides the Waters of the
Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers [At this point the Kooskooske is the Lochsa River
and the Chopunnish is the North Fork of the Clearwater (Kooskooske)]. this
hill or reather mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped in
snow from 12 to 15 feet deep even on the south sides of the hills with the fairest
exposure to the sun; here was winter with all it's rigors; the air was cold, my hands and
feet were benumbed. we knew that it would require five days to reach the fish wears
at the entrance of Colt Creek [Colt Killed Creek, "Killed Colt Creek" on
Clark's map; present White Sand Creek, See September 14, 1805.], provided we were
so fortunate as to be enabled to follow the proper ridges of the mountains to lead us to
that place; <of this Drewyer our principal dependance as a woodsman and guide was
entirely doubtfull;> short of that point we could not hope for any food for our horses
not even underwood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in snow. if we proceeded
and should get bewildered in these mountains the certainty was that we should loose all
our horses and consequently our baggage instruments perhaps our papers
and thus eminently wrisk the loss of the discoveries which we had already made if we
should be so fortunate as to escape with life. the snow boar our horses very well
and the travelling was therefore infinitely better that the obstruction of rocks and
fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall when the snow lay on this
part of the ridge in detached spots only. under these circumstances we conceived it
madnes in this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who
could certainly conduct us to the fish wears on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not
possibly sustain a journey of more than five days without food. we therefore came to the
resolution to return with our horses while they were yet strong and in good order and
indevour to keep them so untill we could procure an indian to conduct us over the snowey
mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could procure such a guide, knowing from the
appearance of the snows that if we remained untill it had desolved sufficiently for us to
follow the road that we should not be enabled to return to the United States within this
season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit for
all the baggage which we had not immediate use for [The baggage was cached on what
is now called Willow Ridge, just west of Sherman Saddle. It was a mile or more northeast
of Clark's "Encamped 18th Septr 1805" on his map.], and also all the
roots and bread of cows which they had except an allowance for a few days to enable them
to return to some place at which we could subsist by hunting untill we procured a guide.
we left our instruments papers &c. beleiving them safer here than to wrisk them on
horseback over the roads and creeks which we had passed. our baggage being laid on
scaffoalds and well covered we began our retrograde march at 1 P.M. having remained about
3 hours on this snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had come to hungry
creek, which we ascended about 2 miles and encamped. [On the south side of Hungery
Creek, the site lies between Clark's "encamped 18th Septr 1805" and the main
party's "Campd 19th."] we had here more grass for our horses than
the preceeding evening yet it was but scant. the party were a good deel dejected
tho' not as much so as I had apprehended they would have been. this is the first time
since we have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat or make a
retrograde march. it rained on us most of this evening.--
June 17, 1806
William Clark
We Collected our horses and Set out early; we proceeded down hungary Creek about 7
miles passing it twice; we found it dificuelt and dangerous to pass the creek in
consequence of it's debth and rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek, by
assending a Steep rockey and difficuelt hill. beyond this Creek the road assends the
mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges, which divides the waters of the
Kooskooske and Chopunnish Riv's. This mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we
found ourselves invelloped in snow from 8 to 12 feet deep even on the South Side of the
mountain. I was in front and Could only prosue the derection of the road by the
trees which had been peeled by the nativs for the iner bark of which they Scraped and
eate, as those pealed trees were only to be found Scattered promisquisley, I with great
difficulty prosued the direction of the road one mile further to the top of the mountain
where I found the Snow from 12 to 15 feet deep, but fiew trees with the fairest exposure
to the Sun; here was Winter with all it's rigors; the air was cold my hands and feet were
benumed. we knew that it would require four days to reach the fish weare at the
enterance of Colt Creek, provided we were So fortunate as to be enabled to follow the
poper ridge of the mountains to lead us to that place; of this all of our most expert
woodsmen and principal guides were extreemly doubtfull; Short of that point we could not
hope for any food for our horses not even under wood itself as the whole was covered many
feet deep in Snow. if we proceeded and Should git bewildered in those Mountains the
Certainty was that we Should lose all of our horses and consequencely our baggage
enstrements perhaps our papers and thus eventially resque the loss of our discoveries
which we had already made if we Should be So fortunate as to escape with life. the
Snow bore our horses very well and the traveling was therefore infinately better than the
obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall
when the snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached spops [spots]
only. under these Circumstances we Conceived it madness in this stage of the
expedition to proceed without a guide who Could Certainly Conduct us to the fishing wears
on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly Sustain a journey of more than 4 or 5
days without food. we therefore Come to the resolution to return with our horses
while they were yet strong and in good order, and indeaver to keep them So untill we could
precure an indian to conduct us over the Snowey Mountains, and again to proceed as soon as
we could precure Such a guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we
remained untill it had disolved Sufficiently for us to follow the road that we Should not
be enabled to return to the United States within this Season. having come to this
resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit of all the baggage which we had not
imediate use for, and also all the roots and bread of Cows which they had except an
allowance for a fiew days to enable them to return to Some place at which we could Subsist
by hunting untill we precured a guide. we left our instrements, and I even left the
most of my papers believing them Safer here than to Wrisk them on horseback over the road,
rocks and water which we had passed. our baggage being laid on Scaffolds and well
covered, we began our retragrade march at 1 P.M. haveing remain'd about three hours on
this Snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had advanced to hungary Creek,
which we assended about 2 miles and encamped. we had here more grass for our horses
then the proceeding evening, yet it was but scant. the party were in good deel
dejected, tho' not as much So as I had apprehended they would have been. this is the
first time Since we have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to
retreat or make a retragrade march. it rained on us the most of this evening.
on the top of the Mountain the Weather was very fluctiating and uncertain snowed cloudy
& fair in a few minets.
June 17, 1806
John Ordway
we Set out as usal the morning chilley and cloudy. we proceeded on down Sd Creek
about 6 miles then took up a high mountain. when we got about half way up it the
ground was covred with Snow 3 or 4 feet deep as we ascended higher it got
deeper untill we got to the top of the mountain where it was 12 or 15 feet in general even
on the South Side where the Sun has open view but is So Settled so that it bears up our
horses.-- here is not a sign of any green Shrub or any thing for our horses to eat,
and of course no better for 4 days march a head. if we could even find the
road which is impossable without a guide as their is no Sign of a road or trail here So we
halted on the top of this mountain and our officers consulted on what was best to do.
at length determined to our Sorrow to return to where we might git feed for
our horses. So we Scaffelled up all our baggage [At Willow Ridge, just
west of Sherman Saddle] we could do a Short time with out. Set in to
hailling & raining at this time verry cold and disagreeable. So we turned back much
against our expectations when we Started went back on hungry creek &
followed up it about 2 miles & Camped [On the south side of Hungery Creek]
for the night.--
June 17, 1806
Patrick Gass
There was a cloudy morning, but without rain. We early continued our march; took down
Hungry creek about six miles, and then took up a large mountain. When we got about half
way up the mountain the ground was entirely covered with snow three feet deep; and as we
ascended it still became deeper, until we arrived at the top, where it was twelve or
fifteen feet deep; but it in general carried our horses. Here there was not the appearance
of a green shrub, or any thing for our horses to subsist on; and we know it cannot be
better for four days march even could be find the road or course, which appears almost
impossible, without a guide perfectly acquainted with the mountains. We therefore halted
to determine what was best to be done, as it appeared not only imprudent but highly
dangerous to proceed without a guide of any kind. After remaining about two hours we
concluded it would be most adviseable to go back to some place where there was food for
our horses. We therefore hung up our loading on poles, tide to and extended between trees,
covered it all safe with deer skins, and turned back melancholy and disappointed. At this
time it began to rain; and we proceeded down to Hungry creek again: went up it about two
miles, and encamped for the night where our horses could get something to eat. The grass
and plants here are just putting out, and the shrubs budding. It rained hard during the
afternoon.
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