July 15, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
Sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the portage to see whether the large
perogue and cash were safe.-- [The "lower portage camp" on the Missouri
below the mouth of Belt Creek; See June 16, 1805. It is likely the camp of June 16-29,
1805.] Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that he had tracked
them to beyond our camp of the [The remaining section of this entry was apparently
intended to be placed in another journal as Lewis had completed this journal. There is a
note to that effect written in Clark's hand, "a part of M.L. notes to Come into the
book No. 12--".]
July 15, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
Dispatched McNeal early this morning to the lower part of portage in order to learn
whether the Cash and white perogue remained untouched or in what state they were.
the men employed in drying the meat, dressing deerskins and preparing for the reception of
the canoes. at 1 P.M. Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that after a
diligent surch of 2 days he had discovered where the horses had passed Dearborn's river at
which place there were 15 lodges that had been abandoned about the time our horses
were taken; he pursued the tracks of a number of horses from these lodges to the road
which we had traveled over the mountains which they struck about 3 ms. South of our
encampment of the 7th inst. and had pursued this road Westwardly; I have no doubt but they
are a party of the Tushapahs who have been on a buffaloe hunt. Drewyer informed
that there camp was in a small bottom on the river of about 5 acres inclosed by the steep
and rocky and lofty clifts of the river and that so closely had they kept themselves and
horses within this little spot that there was not a track to be seen of them within a
quarter of a mile of that place. every spire of grass was eaten up by their horses
near their camp which had the appearance of their having remained here some time.
his horse being much fatiegued with the ride he had given him and finding that the indians
had a least 2 days the start of him thought it best to return. his safe return has
releived me from great anxiety. I had already settled it in my mind that a whitebear
had killed him and should have set out tomorrow in surch of him, and if I could not find
him to continue my rout to Maria's river. I knew that if he met with a bear in the plains
even he would attack him. and that if any accedent should happen to seperate him
from his horse in that situation the chances in favour of his being killed would be as 9
to 10. I felt so perfectly satisfyed that he had returned in safety that I thought
but little of the horses although they were seven of the best I had. this loss great as it
is, is not intirely irreparable, or at least dose not defeat my design of exploring
Maria's river. I have yet 10 horses remaining, two of the best and two of the worst
of which I leave to assist the party in taking the canoes and baggage over the portage and
take the remaining 6 with me; these are but indifferent horses most of them but I hope
they may answer our purposes. I shall leave three of my intended party, (viz) Gass,
Frazier and Werner, and take the two Feildses and Drewyer. [The white men in
Lewis's party were Gass, Drouillard, Joseph and Reubin Field, Werner, Frazier, Thompson,
McNeal, and Goodrich. In today's journal Lewis makes no reference to the future of McNeal,
Thompson and Goodrich. However, on July 1, 1806 at Traveler's Rest Lewis stated, "I
determined to go with a small party by the most direct rout to the falls of the Missouri,
there to leave Thompson McNeal and goodrich to prepare carriages and geer for the purpose
of transporting the canoes and baggage over the portage".] by having two
spare horses we can releive those we ride. having made this arrangement I gave
orders for an early departure in the morning, indeed I should have set out instantly but
McNeal road one of the horses which I intend to take and has not yet returned. a
little before dark McNeal returned with his musquet broken off at the breech [Presumably
the U.S. Model 1795 musket, caliber .69.], and informed me that on his arrival at
willow run he had approached a white bear within ten feet without discover[ing]
him the bear being in the thick brush, the horse took the allarm and turning short threw
him immediately under the bear; this animal raised himself on his hinder feet for battle,
and gave him time to recover from his fall which he did in an instant and with his clubbed
musquet he struck the bear over the head and cut him with the guard of the gun [Likely
the trigger guard.] and broke off the breech, the bear stunned with the stroke
fell to the ground and began to scratch his head with his feet; this gave McNeal time to
climb a willow tree which was near at hand and thus fortunately made his escape. the bear
waited at the foot of the tree untill late in the evening before he left him, when McNeal
ventured down and caught his horse which had by this time strayed off to the distance of 2
Ms. and returned to camp. these bear are a most tremenduous animal; it seems that the hand
of providence has been most wonderfully in our favor with rispect to them, or some of us
would long since have fallen a sacrifice to their farosity. there seems to be a sertain
fatality attatched to the neighbourhood of these falls, for there is always a chapter of
accedents prepared for us during our residence at them. the musquetoes continue to
infest us in such manner that we can scarcely exist; for my own npart I am confined by
them to my bier at least 3/4th of my time. my dog even howls with the torture he
experiences from them, they are almost insupportable, they are so numerous that we
frequently get them in our thr[o]ats as we breath.--
July 15, 1806
Patrick Gass
We had pleasant weather. One of our men [McNeal] started to go down to
the other end of the portage, to see if the periogue was safe, which we had left there;
and in the afternoon the man [Drouillard] who had gone after the horses
returned unsuccessful; but as he saw some fresh Indian signs he supposes they were stolen
and taken back over the dividing ridge. Capt. Lewis therefore concluded to take fewer men
and horses with him than he had intended on his excursion up Maria's river. In the evening
the man who had started to go to the other end of the portage, returned without being
there. A white bear met him at Willow creek, that so frightened his horse, that he threw
him off among the feet of the animal; but he fortunately (being too near to shoot) had
sufficient presence of mind to hit the bear on the head with his gun; and the stroke so
stunned it, that it gave him time to get up a tree close by before it could seize him. The
blow, however, broke the gun and rendered it useless; and the bear watched him about three
hours and went away; when he came down, caught his horse about two miles distant and
returned to camp. These bears are very numerous in this part of the country and very
dangerous, as they will attack a man at every opportunity.
July 15, 1806
William Clark
N. 45d E. |
3 |
miles to the top of the gap of a mountain
passing up on the N W. Side of the branch, Some thick under brush Such as young Cotton
wood & W Thorn passing on a plain old buffalow road. the assent of the
mtn. is very gradl. |
East |
3 |
miles to the top of a dividig ridge between the
waters of the Missouri from those of the rochejhone passing down a branch and at 2 1/2
miles Crossed a branch of the Middle fork of the East branch of Galitins river about 1/2
mile above the branch we Came down. runing to the right |
S 45o E. |
1 |
miles down a Small branch a road Coms in form
the left leading over to the Easterly branch. |
N. 75o E |
8 |
Miles to the river Rochejhone passing down a
branch on the North Side through a kind of vally Passed 3 Small Streams from the
left & one at 6 ms. from the right and Struck the lower <one> 1/2 mile below the
branch we Came down & 1 1/2 miles below the plain the river Passes out of
the rocky mountains high on each Side bottom in those mountains narrow. river
about 120 yds wide bold and deep the water of a whiteish blue Colour a mountan
which is ruged N. W has Snow on parts of it. Those above & on the East Side of the
river is rugid and covered with Snow those on the West is also high abut have
no Snow. much Dead timber on its N. Side. |
|
|
From the gap of the Mtn. river |
North |
2 |
miles to a few Cotton under the bank and halted
to let our horses graze & Dine. passed a very Small branch at <1/2> a mile
below the one we Came down. I marked my <the two first letters of> my name and the
day of the year &c. on one of the Cotton trees with red paint <and Cut it in
allso.> The valley is open and extensive-- watr. 3 ms. |
North |
1 |
mile Down river to a clump of trees in a gulley
passed Som tall timber killed by fire, Saw a gang of Elk L. Killed one
psd. and Island (2 1/2 ms.) |
N. 15o E |
4 |
miles to a bend of the at a deep bend to the
West passed two Small runs and a large Isd. on which there was tall treess Several
of them would make Small Canoes Saw a large Gang of Elk feeding on an Isld
main Chanel on the E. Side Passed 11 Islands the 2 last of them large the others
Small (6 ms) |
N. 30o E |
2 |
miles to the Enterans of [blank]
river [Shields River.] 35yds wide boald Current & Deep
from the N W much timber on the Creek & beaver passed Several Islands
Small road forks one Crossing the R about a Mile about its mouth the other
passing over a high rocky hill below the Creek (2 1/2) |
N. 50o E. |
3 |
miles river passing under a high hill
rocky & Steep on the N W Side, an extensive low bottom opposit in which I Saw 3
gangues of Elk. passd Several Small Islands and Encamped on the bank of the river
opposit to an Island (5) |
July 15, 1806
William Clark
we collected our horses and after an early brackft at 8 A M Set out and proceeded up
the branch to the head thence over a low gap in the mountain thence across the
heads of the N E. branch of the [NB: Easterly] fork of Gallitins
river which we Camped near last night passing over a low dividing ridge to the head of a
water Course which runs into the Rochejhone, prosueing an old buffalow road which
enlargenes by one which joins it from the most Easterly [NB: Northerly]
branch of the East fork of Galetins R. [Clark went easterly up Kelly Creek, then
crossed Jackson Creek and went through Bozeman Pass in the Bridger Range.]
proceeding down the branch a little to the N. of East keeping on the North Side of the
branch to the River rochejhone at which place I arrived at 2 P M. [He went east
down the north side of Billman Creek, reaching the Yellowstone River at Livingston, MT.]
The Distance from the three forks of the Easterly fork of Galletines river (from
whence it may be navigated down with Small Canoes) to the river Rochejhone is 18 Miles on
an excellent high dry firm road with very inco[nsi]derable hills.
from this river to the nearest part of the main fork of Gallitine is 29 miles mostly
through a leavel plain. from the head of the Missouri at the 3 forks 48 miles
through a leavel plain the most of the way as may be seen by the remarks
[Here Clark inserts his cumulative courses and distances from the Three Forks
to the Yellowstone for July 13-15, 1806.]
Course Distance
& Remarks from the Three forks of Missouri to the Rive |
Rochejhone where
it enters the Rocky Mounts. |
S 85o E |
6 |
Miles through an open plain crossing a ridge to
galletines river, it haveing made a bend to the S W. campd. the hill Sides
over which we passed contain a hard white rock which lies in an inclined position and
shows only in Stratus. [The strata described here was the limestone observed on
July 13, 1806.] Several roads leading to the Gap in the mountain to my
left. |
S. 78o E. |
6 |
Miles to a part of the river which is divided by
numbers of beaver dams on one channel of the river. passed through an open leavel
butifull plain covered with low grass. river makeing a bend to the N.E. from the
place I crossed it this morning. passed numbers of buffalow roads which do not
appear to be very old leading to the before mentioned gap. |
S. 70o E. |
6 |
Miles to the main principal Stream of the river
which we crossed having crossed Several Streams near the Crossing. a leavel firm
plain on the Island. |
S. 78o E. |
12 |
Miles to the most Southerly of the three
easterly branches of the Easterly for of Galletines river. passed through an open
leavel plain in which there is three Small Streams of water from the Snow Mountains to the
South. [Hyalite, McDonald, and Baxter Creeks, west of Bozeman, coming from the
Gallatin Mountains.] Great quantities of Snow yet remains on the Mountains
to the S. E South, S W. West, and at a distance to the N W. a very small quantity is
also to be Seen on a nacked mountain to the East marked my W. C July 14th. 1906 with
powder on a cotton tree at the river. |
N. 80o E. |
3 |
Miles to the enterance of a Small branch which
falls into the Middle branch of the East fork of Galletine River having Crossed the middle
branch at 2 miles, passed great numbers of beaver dams and ponds on the branch, and
encamped. here the mountain forms a kind of half circle in which the three branches
enter them. from which the mountains appear to run N W. from one extremity and w.
from the othr |
N. 45o E |
3 |
Miles to the top of the mountain in a low gap
passing up the branch on which we encamped last night, on a well beaten buffalow road,
through Some thick under growth Such as young Cottonwood & thorn. Several beaver dams
across this branch. the assent gradual. |
East |
3 |
Miles to the top of the dividing ridge between
the waters of the Missouri form those of the river Rochehone. passing down a Small
branch and at 2 1/2 miles crossing a larger branch of the middle fork of the East fork of
Galletins about 1/2 a Mile above the branch I came down, running to the right a road
coms in from the left, which passes through a low gap of the mtn. from the most easterly
branch of the East fork. |
S. 45o E. |
1 |
Miles down a Small branch crossed two runs from
the left [Quinn Creek and an unnamed stream.] passing on the hill Side to
the left of the branch. the road firm and through an open country. high
mountins on each side partially Covered with pine. |
N. 75o E |
8 |
Miles to the River Rochejhone passing down on
the Northerly side of the Same branch across which there is Several beaver dams. Crossed
three Small Streams from the left with running water one of which is crouded with beaver
dams. [Flynn Creek, Area Creek, and an unnamed stream.] a Small
stream coms in on the right at 6 ms. [Miner Creek.] Struck
the Rochejhone 1/2 a mile below the branch we came down & 1 1/2 ms. below where it
passes out of the Rocky mountains. river 120 yds wide bold, rapid and deep. |
ms. |
48 |
|
in the evening after the usial delay of 3 hours to give the horses time
to feed and rest and allowing our Selves time also to Cook and eate Dinner, I proceeded on
down the river on an old buffalow road at the distance of 9 miles below the
mountains Shield River discharges itself into the Rochejhone on it's N W. side above a
high rocky Clift, this river is 35 yards wide deep and affords a great quantity of water
it heads in those Snowey Mountains to the N W with Howards Creek [Shields
River heads in the Crazy Mountains near there is the had of Sixteenmile Creek, the
captians' Howard's Creek, which flows west to meet the Missouri River.], it
contains some Timber Such as Cotton & willow in it's bottoms, and Great numbers of
beaver the river also abounds in those animals as far as I have Seen. passed
the creek and over a high rocky hill and encamped in the upper part of a large bottom. [Clark
camped on the north side of the Yellowstone River south of Sheep Mountain and
approximately three miles below the mouth of Shields River.] The horses
feet are very sore many of them Can Scercely proceed on over the Stone and gravel in every
other respect they are Sound and in good Sperits. I saw two black bear on the side of the
mountains this morning. Several gangs of Elk from 100 to 200 in a gangue on the
river, great numbers of Antelopes. one Elk only killed to day.
The Roche passes out of a high rugid mountain covered with snow. [From this
location the Yellowstone emerged from between the Gallatin Range on the west and the
Absaroka Range on the east.] the bottoms are narrow within the mountains
but widen from 1/2 a m. to 2 ms. in the Vally below, those bottoms are Subject to over
flow, they contain Some tall Cotton wood, and willow rose bushes & rushes Honey suckle
&c. a Second bottom on the N E. Side which rises to about 20 feet higher the
first & is 1 m. wide this bottom is coars gravel pebils & Sand with Some
earth on which the grass grow very Short and at this time is quit dry this 2d bottom
over flows in high floods on the opposit Side of the river the plain is much
higher and extendes quite to the foot of the mountain. The mountains to the S.S.E on
the East side of the river is rocky rugid and on them are great quantities of Snow. [The
Absaroka Range and the Beartooth Mountains to the east of them.] a bold
Snow mountain which bears East [This is impossible from Clark's position on the
Yellowstone, but if he means "west," then Saddle Peak in the Bridger Range could
be the mountain.] & is imediately at & N W of the 3 forks of the East
fork of Gallitins river may be Seen, there is also a high rugid Mtn. on which is Snow
bearing North 15 or 20 Miles [The Crazy Mountains.] but fiew
flowers to be Seen in those plains. low grass in the high plains, and the Common
corse grass, rushes and a species of rye [This area is dominated by Blue Grama, Bouteloua
gracilis and Buffalo-Grass, Buchloe dactyloides. The rye is probably
Basin Wildrye, Elymus cinereus.] is the growth of the low bottoms.
the mountains have Some scattering pine on them, and on the Spurs and hill Sides
there is some scrubby pine. I can See no timber Sufficient[ly]
large for a Canoe which will Carry more than 3 men and Such a one would be too Small to
answer my purpose
July 15, 1806
John Ordway
a fair morning. we Set out at light and proceed on verry well
overtook Collins who had killed three deer about 9 A.M. we halted for breakfast
& Collins killed a fat buck & P.Cruzatte killed a goat or antelope. we
proced. on verry well the currents are common & ripe. Colter killed a panther a
deer and a rattle Snake. in the evening we Camped in the mountains. Collins killed 4
Elk. the Musquetoes verry troublesom in deed.--
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