The moring was cloudy and continued to rain as usual, tho' the cloud seemed somewhat
thiner. I therefore posponed seting out untill 9 A.M. in the hope that it would
clear off but finding the contrary result I had the horses caught and we set out biding a
last adieu to this place which I now call camp disappointment. I took my rout
through the open plains S.E. 5 ms. passing a small creek [Willow Creek, a
tributary of Cut Bank Creek.] at 2 ms. from the mountains wher I changed my
direction to S. 75 E. for 7 ms. further and struck a principal branch [Two
Medicine River.] of Maria's river 65 yds. wide, not very deep, I passed this
stream to it's south side and continued down it 2 ms. on the last mentioned course when
another branch [Badger Creek meeting Two Medicine River.] of nearly the
same dignity formed a junction with it, coming from the S.W. this last is
shallow and rappid; has the appearance of overflowing it's banks frequently and
discharging vast torrants of water at certain seasons of the year. the beds of both
these streams are pebbly particularly the S. branch. the water of the N. branch is
very terbid while that of the S. branch is nearly clear not withstanding the late rains.
I passed the S. branch just above it's junction and continued down the river which
runs a little to the N of E 1 ms. and halted to dine and graize our horses. [Approximately
one mile below the mouth of Badger Creek on Two Medicine River. The general course of the
river at this location is a little south of east.] here I found some
indian lodges which apeared to have been inhabited last winter in a large and fertile
bottom well stocked with cottonwood timber. the rose honeysuckle and redberry bushes
constitute the undergrowth there being but litle willow in this quarter both these rivers
abov their junction appeared to be well stocked with timber or comparitively so with other
parts of the country. here it is that we find the three species of cottonwood which
I have remarked in my voyage assembled together that speceis common to the Columbia
I have never before seen on the waters of the Missouri, also the narrow and broad leafed
speceis. [Lewis makes an astute ecological observation; the three major cottonwood
species typical of the plains, the Rocky Mountains, and the Pacific Coast all occur
together here in the eastern foothills of the Rocky Mountains. The Columbia species is
Black Cottonwood, the "narrow" is Narrowleaf Cottonwood, and the "broak
leafed" is Plains Cottonwood.] during our stay at this place R. Fields
killed a buck a part of the flesh of which we took with us. we saw a few Antelopes
some wolves and 2 of the smallest speceis of fox [Swift Fox, Vulpes velox.
See July 6 and 8, 1805.] of a redish brown colour with the extremity of the tail
black. it is about the size of the common domestic cat and burrows in the plains.
after dinner I continued my rout down the river to the North of East about 3 ms.
when the hills putting in close on the S side I determined to ascend them to the high
plain which I did accordingly, keeping the Fields with me; Drewyer passed the river and
kept down the vally of the river. I had intended to decend this river with it's
course to it's junction with the fork which I had ascended and from thence have taken
across the country obliquely to rose river and decend that stream to it's confluence with
Maria's river. [Lewis intended to follow Two Medicine River to its junction with
Cut Bank Creek, then head southeasterly to Teton River and follow that stream down to the
junction with the Marias.] the country through which this portion of
Maria's river passes to the fork which I ascended appears much more broken than that above
and abetween this and the mountains. I had scarcely ascended the hills before I
discovered to my left at the distance of a mile an assembleage of about 30 horses, I
halted and used my spye glass by the help of which I discovered several indians on the top
of an iminence just above them who appeared to be looking down towards the river I
presumed at Drewyer. about half the horses were saddled. this was a very unpleasant sight,
however I resolved to make the best of our situation and to approach them in a friendly
manner. I directed J. Fields to display the flag which I had brought for that purpose and
advanced slowly toward them, about this time they discovered us and appeared to run about
in a very confused manner as if much allarmed, their attention had been previously so
fixed on Drewyer that they did not discover us untill we had began to advance upon them,
some of them decended the hill on which they were and drove their horses within
shot of it's summit and again returned to the hight as if to wate our arrival or to defend
themselves. I calculated on their number being nearly or quite equal to that of
their horses, that our runing would invite pursuit as it would convince them that we were
their enimies and our horses were so indifferent that we could not hope to make our escape
by flight; added to this Drewyer was seperated from us and I feared that his not being
apprized of the indians in the event of our attempting to escape he would most probably
fall a sacrefice. under these considerations I still advanced towards them; when we
had arrived <at the distance of> within a quarter of a mile of them, one of them
mounted his horse and rode full speed towards us, which when I discovered I halted and
alighted from my horse; he came within a hundred paces halted looked at us and turned his
horse about and returned as briskly to his party as he had advanced; while he halted near
us I held out my hand and becconed to him to approach but he paid no attention to my
overtures. on his return to his party they all decended the hill and mounted their
horses and advanced towards us leaving their horses behind them, we also advanced to meet
them. I counted eight of them but still supposed that there were others concealed as
there were several other horses saddled. I told the two men with me that I
apprehended that these were the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie and from their known
character I expected that we were to have some difficulty with them; that if they thought
themselves sufficiently strong I was convinced they would attempt to rob us in which case
be their numbers what they would I should resist to the last extremity prefering death to
that of being deprived of my papers instruments and gun and desired that they would form
the same resolution and be allert and on their guard. when we arrived within a
hundred yards of each other the indians except one halted I directed the two men with me
to do the same and advanced singly to meet the indian with whom I shook hands and passed
on to those in his rear, as he did also to the two men in my rear; we now all assembled
and alighted from our horses; the Indians soon asked to smoke with us, but I told them
that the man whom they had seen pass down the river had my pipe and we could not smoke
untill he joined us. I requested as they had seen which way he went that they would
one of them go with one of my men in surch of him, this they readily concented to and a
young man set out with R. Fields in surch of Drewyer. I now asked them by sighns if
they were the Minnetares of the North which they answered in the affermative; [Actually
these Indians were Piegans, members of one of the three main divisions of the Blackfeet
confederation, the other two being the Bloods and the Blackfeet proper.] I
asked if there was any cheif among them and they pointed out 3 I did not believe
them however I thought it best to please them and gave to one a medal to a second a flag
and to the third a handkercheif, with which they appeared well satisfyed. they
appeared much agitated with our first interview from which they had scarcely yet
recovered, in fact I beleive they were more allarmed at this accedental interview than we
were. from no more of them appearing I now concluded they were only eight in number
and became much better satisfyed with our situation as I was convinced that we could
mannage that number should they attempt any hostile measures. as it was growing late
in the evening I proposed that we should remove to the nearest part of the river and
encamp together, I told them that I was glad to see them and had a great deel to say to
them. we mounted our horses and rode towards the river which was at but a short
distance, on our way we were joined by Drewyer Fields and the indian. we
decended a very steep bluff about 250 feet high to the river where there was a small
bottom of nearly 1/2 a mile in length and about 250 yards wide in the widest part, [This
campsite was along the south side of Two Medicine River about four miles below the mouth
of Badger Creek and downstream from Kipps Coulee, about fourteen miles sosuthwest of Cut
Bank, MT.] the river washed the bluffs both above and below us and through
it's course in this part is very deep; the bluffs are so steep that there are but few
places where they could be ascended, and are broken in several places by deep nitches
which extend back from the river several hundred yards, there bluffs being so steep that
it is impossible to ascend them; in this bottom there stand t[h]ree
solitary trees near one of which the indians formed a large semicircular camp of dressed
buffaloe skins and invited us to partake of their shelter which Drewyer and myself
accepted and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front of the she[l]ter.
with the assistance of Drewyer I had much conversation with these people in the course of
the evenling. I learned from them that they were a part of a large band which lay
incamped at present near the foot of the rocky mountains on the main branch of Maria's
river one 1/2 days march from our present encampment; that there was a whiteman with their
band; that there was another large band of their nation hunting buffaloe near the broken
mountains and were on there way to the mouth of Maria's river where they would probably be
in the course of a few days. they also informed us that from hence to the
establishment where they trade on the Suskasawan river is only 6 days easy march or such
as they usually travel with their women and childred which may be estimated at about 150
ms. [Lewis's estimated distance would take one to the Bow River in Alberta, where
there was a North West Company post reportedly abandoned in 1804. However, the company's
principal post for the Blackfeet trade was Rocky Mountain House, founded in 1799 on the
North Saskatchewan River, near the site of the present Alberta community of the same name,
a distance of approximately 240 miles from Lewis's location.] that from these
traders they obtain arm amunition sperituous liquor blankets &c in exchange for wolves
and some beaver skins. I told these people that I had come a great way from the East
up the large river which runs towards the rising sun, that I had been to the great waters
where the sun sets and had seen a great many nations all of whom I had invited to come and
trade with me on the rivers on this side of the mountains, that I had found most of them
at war with their neighbours and had succeeded in restoring peace among them, that I was
now on my way home and had left my party at the falls of the missouri with orders to
decend that river to the entrance of Maria's river and there wait my arrival and that I
had come in surch of them in order to prevail on them to be at peace with their neighbours
particularly those on the West side of the mountains and to engage them to come and trade
with me when the establishment is made at the entrance of this river to all which they
readily gave their assent and declared it to be their wish to be at peace with the
Tushepahs whom they said had killed a number of their relations lately and pointed to
several of those present who had cut their hair as an evidince of the truth of what they
had asserted. I found them extreemly fond of smoking and plyed them with the pipe
untill late at night. I told them that if they intended to do as I wished them they
would send some of their young men to their band with an invitation to their chiefs and
warriors to bring the whiteman with them and come down and council with me at the entrance
of Maria's river and that the ballance of them would accompany me to that place, where I
was anxious now to meet my men as I had been absent from them some time and knew that they
would be uneasy untill they saw me. that if they would go with me I would give them
10 horses and some tobacco. to this proposition they made no reply, I took the first watch
tonight and set up untill half after eleven; the indians by this time were all asleep, I
roused up R. Fields and laid down myself; I directed Fields to watch the movements of the
indians and if any of them left the camp to awake us all as I apprehended they would
attampt to s[t]eal our horses. this being done I feel into a
profound sleep and did not wake untill the noise of the men and indians awoke me a little
after light in the morning.--
Set out this morning very early proceeded on Passed Creeks [NB:
Hall's N. Side] [Named both "Halls <dry> River" and
"Little Wolf C" on one of Clark's maps, and "Halls creek" on another,
after Hugh Hall of the party. It is present Cow Gulch, meeting the Yellowstone River
approximately five miles northeast of the village of Pompeys Pillar.] very
well. the Current of the river reagulilarly Swift much divided by Stoney islands and
bars also handsome Islands civered with Cotton Wood the bottoms extensive on the Stard.
Side on the Lard. the Clifts of high land border the river, those clifts are
composed of a whitish rock of an excellent grit for Grindstones. The Country back on each
Side is wavering land with Scattering pine. passed 2 Small Brooks on the Stard. Side
and two large ones on the Lard. Side. I shot a Buck from the Canoe and killed one other on
a Small Island. and late in the evening pased a part of the river which ws rock under the
lard. Clifts fortunately for us we found an excellent Chanel to pass down on
the right of a Stony Island half a mile below this bad place, we arived at the enterance
of Big Horn River on the Stard. Side. [The Bighorn river reaches the Yellowstone
River a mile or so above the present village of Bighorn, MT.] here I landed
imediately in the point which is a Sof mud mixed with the Sand and Subject to overflow for
Some distance back in between the two rivers. I walked up the big horn 1/2 a mile
and crossed over to the lower Side, and formed a Camp on a high point. [The camp
was above the junction of the Bighorn River with the Yellowstone and on the stream's east
side.] I with one of my men Labeech walked up the N E Side of Big horn
river 7 miles to th enterance of a Creek which falls in on the N E. Side and is 28 yds
wide Some running water which is very muddy this Creek I call Muddy Creek [Tullock
Creek. It is "Muddy Creek" on two of Clark's maps as it is in his journal,
however on Clark's map of 1810 it is "Horse River."] Some fiew miles
above this creek the river bent around to the East of South. The Courses as I assended it
as follows Viz:
| S 35o E. |
3 |
miles to a low Clift on the right
passed a point on the right at 1 1/2 Ms. an island Situatd. close to the left hand Shore.
under this Clift is Some Swift rapid water and high waves |
| S. 61o E. |
3 |
miles to a high bank of a Second bottom in the
left hand bend passed head of the isld. |
| S. 38o W. |
4 |
miles to a right hand bend, passing a large
Creek of muddly water on the left side at 1 mile, opposit a Sand bar from the right. |
The bottoms of the Big Horn river are extencive and Covered with timber
principally Cotton. it's Current is regularly Swift, like the Missouri, it washes
away its banks on one Side while it forms extensive Sand bars on the other. Contains much
less portion of large gravel than the R: Rochjhone and its water more mudy and of a
brownish colour, while that of the rochejhone is of a lightish Colour. the width of
those two rivers are very nearly the Same imediately at their enterances the river
Rochejhone much the deepest and contains most water. I measured the debth of the bighorn
quit across a 1/2 a mile above its jundtion and found it from 5 to 7 feet only while that
of the River [NB: roche jaune] is in the deepest part 10 to 12
feet water on the lower Side of the bighorn is extencive boutifull and leavil
bottom thinly covered with Cotton wood under which there grows great quantities of rose
bushes. [Western Wild Rose.] I am informed by the Menetarres
Indians and others that this River takes its rise in the Rocky mountains with the heads of
the river plate and at no great distance from the river Rochejhone and passes between the
Coat Nor or Black Mountains and the most Easterly range of Rocky Mountains. [Gary
E. Moulton: Both main branches of the Platte rise in the Colorado Rockies; some
tributaries of the North Platte, such as the Sweetwater River, are relatively close to the
upper Bighorn River in Wyoming. Some tributaries of the Bighorn rise in the Absaroka
Range, which is east of the upper Yellowstone. The "Black Mountains" in this
case may be the Big Horn and Rosebud mountains, in agreement with Lewis and Clark's
grouping of various outlying ranges of the Rockies as part of the Black Hills.]
it is very long and Contains a great perpotion of timber on which there is a variety of
wild animals, perticularly the big horn which are to be found in great numbers on this
river. [NB: 2 large forks come in on Sth. & 1 on North] [The two
southern (more properly eastern) branches of the Bighorn are probably the Little Bighorn
River, associated with Custer's defeat by the Sioux and other Indians in 1876 and Nowater
Creek. The principal tributaries on the western side are the Shoshone River, Greybull
River and Wind River all originating in Wyoming.] Buffalow, Elk, Deer and
Antelopes are plenty and the river is Said to abound in beaver. it is inhabited by a
great number of roveing Indians of the Crow Nation, the paunch Nation [NB: a
band of Crows] [The Hidatsas referred to the Crows as "the people who refused
the paunch. See November 12, 1804.] and the Castahanas [NB: a band of
Snake In.] [Gary E. Moulton: They are described as speaking the same language as the
"Me na ta re (or big belly)" and are also called "Gens des Vache." The
latter term commonly referred to the Arapahoes, who spoke Algonquian tongue. The captains
used "Minitare," "Big Belly," and "Gros Ventre" to refer
either to the Hidatsas or to the Atsinas. The latter are linguistically related to the
Arapahoes. If their principal hunting ground was on the upper Bighorn River, we might
assume them to be a division of the Crows, whose Siouan language was similar to that of
the Hidatsas. "Gens des Vache" might be a mistake for "Gens de Panse"
or Paunch Indians, which would make them Crows. Since Clark did not meet them, his
information may have derived either from Sacagawea or from his sources for the Estimate of
Eastern Indians, that is, from the Mandans, Hidatsas, and white fur traders. Hyde
speculates that they were a Shoshonean group (hence "Snakes") who had been
driven from the upper Bighorn by the time of Lewis and Clark, and identifies them with the
Kwahari, or Kwadadi, Camanches.] all of those nations who are Subdiveded
rove and prosue the Buffalow of which they make their principal food, their Skins together
with those of the Big horn and Antilope Serve them for Clothes. This river is Said to be
navagable a long way for perogus without falls and waters a find rich open
<200 yds wide> Country. it si 200 yds water & 1/4 of a Me. wd. I returned
to Camp a little after dark, haveing killed one deer, finding my Self fatigued went to
bead without my Supper. Shields killed 2 Bull & 3 Elk.
|
Courses distances &
remarks July 26th 1806 |
M |
| N. 18o E. |
to a point on the Stard. Side, passed a low
narrow island on the Stard. and Som bars near the lard. Side |
6 |
| N. 57o E. |
to a point on the Stard Side. passed an
island and 4 Stoney bars. also a large Creek 40 Yds wide I call Halls R on the Lard.
Side at 4 miles. but little water |
6 |
| East |
4 Miles to a Clift under a high pine hill on the
Stard. Side. passed a Small Creek on the Stard. at 1 mile and the Lard Clift
opsd. the had of an Isld. at 2 Miles on this course |
4 |
| N. 12o E. |
to a clift of white rocks on the Lard. Side,
passed the island and 2 Stoney bars |
3 1/2 |
| East |
to clift of rocks on the Stard Side passd
several bars or islands |
5 |
| N. 45o E. |
to a high clift on the Lard. Side opposit
Several Small islands. Chanel of the river much divided. passed 2 Small Islands.
low bottoms on the Stard Side rocky Clifts on Lard side |
2 1/2 |
| East |
to a Stard. Bend passed an island & a
Stony bar |
2 1/2 |
| N. 10o E. |
to a clift on the Lard Side Island on
Stard. Side. |
1 1/2 |
| N. 54o E. |
to the lower point of the island near the Stard.
Side. passed the upper point of an island |
1 1/2 |
| North |
to a high White Clift on the Lard. Side haveing
passed two Stoney Islands |
4 |
| East |
to the enterance of a Small brook on the Stard.
passed 3 islands and the upper point of the 4th near Lard. |
6 |
| North |
to the lower point of an island Close to the
lard. Side back of which a large Creek falls in on the Lard Side Island brook |
4 |
| N. 60o E. |
to a tree under a Lard. Clift passed a
Std. Clift |
3 |
| East |
to a large tree in the Stard. Bend |
4 |
| N. 35o E. |
to a Lard. Bend passed the Stard. Clift at
2 Miles. |
4 |
| East |
to the lower [SW?] point of an
island |
1 1/2 |
| N. 35o E. |
to a clift in a lard. Bend under which there is
a rapid. a gravelly bar opposit on the S. E of which there is a good Chanel. |
2 1/2 |
| East |
to the junction of Big horn River on the Stard.
220 yards wide from 5 to 7 feet deep quit across, and encamped on the lower
side bottom subject to floods |
1/2 |
|
Miles |
62 |
[Speech prepared for Yellowstone Indians]
Children. The Great Spirit has given a fair and bright day for us to meet together in
his View that he may inspect us in this all we say and do.
Children I take you all by the hand as the children of your Great father the President
of the U. States of America who is the great chief of all the white people towards the
riseing sun.
Children This Great Chief who is Benevolent, just, wise & bountifull has sent me
and one other of his chiefs (who is at this time in the country of the Blackfoot Indians)
to all his read children on the Missourei and its waters quite to the great lake of the
West where the land ends and the [sun] sets on the face of the great
water, to know their wants and inform him of them on our return.
Children We have been to the great lake of the west and are now on our return to my
country. I have seen all my read children quite to that great lake and talked with them,
and taken them by the hand in the name of their great father the Great Chief of all the
white people.
Children We did not see the [blank space in MS.] or the nations to the
North. I have [come] across over the high mountains and bad road to this
river to see the [blank space in MS.] Natn. I have come down the river
from the foot of the great showey mountain to see you, and have looked in every derection
for you, without seeing you untill now
Children I heard from some of your people [blank space in MS.] nights
past by my horses who complained to me of your people haveing taken 4 [24]
of their cummerads.
Children The object of my comeing to see you is not to do you injurey but to do you
good the Great Chief of all the white people who has more goods at his command than could
be piled up in the circle of your camp, wishing that all his read children should be happy
has sent me here to know your wants that he may supply them.
Children Your great father the Chief of the white people intends to build a house and
fill it with such things as you may want and exchange with you for your skins & furs
at a very low price. & has derected me [to] enquire of you, at what
place would be most convenient for to build this house. and what articles you are in want
of that he might send them imediately on my return
Children The people in my country is like the grass in your plains noumerous they are
also rich and bountifull. and love their read brethren who inhabit the waters of the
Missoure
Children I have been out from my country two winters, I am pore necked and nothing to
keep of[f] the rain. when I set out from my country I had a plenty but
have given it all to my read children whome I have seen on my way to the Great Lake of the
West. and have now nothing.
Children Your Great father will be very sorry to here of the [blank space in
MS.] stealing the horses of his Chiefs & warrors whome he sent out to do good
to his red children on the waters of Missoure.
[Two lines in MS. so worn and torn as to be illegible.]
... their ears to his good counsels he will shut them and not let any goodds & guns
be brought to the red people. but to those who open their Ears to his counsels he will
send every thing they want into their country. and build a house where they may come to
and be supplyed whenever they wish.
Children Your Great father the Chief of all the white people has derected me [to]
inform his red children to be at peace with each other, and with the white people who may
come into your country under the protection of the Flag of your great father which you.
those people who may visit you under the protection of that flag are good people and will
do you no harm
Children Your great father has derected me to tell you not to sufffer your young and
thoughtless men to take the horses or property of your neighbours or the white people, but
to trade with them fairly and honestly, as those of his red children below.
Children The red children of your great father who live near him and have opened their
ears to his counsels are rich and hapy have plenty of horses cows & Hogs fowls bread
&c. &c. live in good houses, and sleep sound. and all those of his red children
who inhabit the waters of the Missouri who open their ears to what I say and follow the
counsels of their great father the President of the United States, will in a fiew years be
a[s] hapy as those mentioned &c.
Children It is the wish of your Great father the Chief of all the white people that
some 2 of the principal Chiefs of this [blank space in MS.] Nation should
Visit him at his great city and receive from his own mouth. his good counsels,a nd from
his own hands his abundant gifts, Those of his red children who visit him do not return
with empty hands, he [will] send them to their nation loaded with
presents
Children If any one two or 3 of your great chiefs wishes to visit your great father and
will go with me, he will send you back next Summer loaded with presents and some goods for
the nation. You will then see with your own eyes and here with your own years what the
white people can do for you. they do not speak with two tongues nor promis what they can't
perform
Children Consult together and give me an answer as soon as possible your great father
is anxious to here from (& see his red children who wish to visit him) I cannot stay
but must proceed on & inform him &c.