July 30, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
The rain still continued this morning it was therefore unnecessary to remain as we
could not dry our baggage I Consequently set out early as usual and pursued my
rout downwards. the currant being strong and the men anxious to get on they plyed
their oars faithfully and we went at the rate of about seven miles an hour. we
halted several times in the course of the day to kill some bighorns being anxious to
procure a few more skins and skeletons of this animal; I was fortunate enough to procure
one other malle and female for this purpose which I had prepared accordingly. seven
others were killed by the party also 2 buffaloe one Elk 2 beaver with & a female brown
bear with tallons 6 1/4 inches in length. I preserved the skin of this bear also
with the tallons; it was not large and in but low order. we arrived this evening at
an island about 2 ms. above Goodriches Island and encamped on it's N. E. side. [The
map places Lewis's campsite on Goodrich's Island, below the campsite of May 25, 1805.
Ordway and Gass say the camp was on the island. Lewis's entry places the site on
the upriver side of the sharp bend above Goodrich's Island. The location is below Cow
Creek and Cow Island Crossing.] the rain continued with but
little intermission all day; the air is cold and extreemly disagreeable. nothing
extraordinary happened today
July 30, 1806
John Ordway
cloudy and wet. we Set out eairly and proceeded on verry well
our hunters killed 2 buffaloe I and willard killed a white bear. Some of the
hunters killed 4 Ibex and 2 beavers. rained all day. Camped on an Island.-- [Lewis,
in contrast to Ordway and Gass, places the camp above a nameless island a few miles below
Cow Creek.]
July 30, 1806
Patrick Gass
We embarked early in a cloudy morning with some rain. In our way through this high
range of mountains, we killed four more of the large horned animals, two buffaloe, two
beaver and a bear.
The water of the river is very thick and muddy, on account of the late falls of rain,
which wash those clay hills very much. We went down the river upwards of 70 miles to day,
and encamped on a prairie island. [Both Ordway and Gass disagree with Lewis
regarding the location of this campsite. Lewis would have it a few miles below Cow Creek.
Ordway and Gass place it on Goodrichs Island.] Heavy rain fell at intervals
during the day.
July 30, 1806
William Clark
N. 14o W. |
3 |
miles to a Lard Bluff passed an
Island and 2 gravelly bars |
N. 40o E |
6 |
miles to the enteranc of a dry Brook with Stard.
Bend Passed the enteranc of a river 100 yds wide below the Lard. Bluff at 5 miles. som
wood on this river. (rained) |
N. 30o W |
1 3/4 |
miles to a tree in Lard bend |
N 60o E. |
1 1/4 |
miles to a Bluff in a Stard. bend
passed a Shoal 2/3 across th river from the Lard. Side |
North |
1 1/2 |
mile to 3 trees in a Lard. bend
passed a large dry Creek on the Stard. at 1/2 a mile 80 yds |
N 70o E |
4 |
miles to the point of a Clift on the Stard. Side
opposit to the great Shoal quite across the riv rock dark brown
Sand. this may be run with ease and Safty in a large Canoe |
N E. |
3 |
mils to a bush in a naked point on the Lard Side
passed a large dry brook on each Side low Bluff on the Stard.
Side |
N. 20o E |
1 |
mile to the head of an Island low
bluff on Std. no wood on either side Passed a Brook on Stard. Side |
N. 10o W. |
2 1/2 |
miles to the enterance of a large dry Creek on
the Lard Side above a bluff passed 1 on the Stard. |
N 70o E |
1 |
mile to Brook on the Stard Bend
passed a high bluff on the Lard. for 1/2 ml. |
North |
1 1/2 |
miles to the enteranc of a <large> small
dry Creek in the Lard. Bend near a high Bluff |
N. 20o E |
1 |
mile to a large dry Brook in Std. bend |
N. 5o W. |
2 |
miles the Center Lard Bend rocks on
both Sides in the bottom but little wood |
N. 30o E. |
2 |
miles to a Stard. point |
East |
2 |
miles to a Stard Bend passd. a Brook
on each Side but little wood |
N. 20o E. |
1 1/2 |
miles on the Stard. Bend passed a
Brook on Stard Side low bluff Lard. |
North |
1 <2> 1/2 |
miles to a few bushes in a Lard Bend |
N. E |
1 |
miles to a Brook which discharges itself on the
Stard. Side in the Center of a rapid I call Bear rapid not bad a
god Chanel on the Lard. Side |
N. W |
3.4 |
of a m. to a bluff in the Lard Bend
passed a dry river 88 yds chanel and nearly 1/4 of a mile when high-- |
N.E. |
2 <3> 1/4 |
miles to a Bluff in a Stard. Bend
passed a bar on Stard. point |
North |
4 <5> 1/2 |
miles passed a low bluff on each
Side a <large Brook> at 3 River 100 yards wide Shallow & very muddy
I take this to be the [blank] River, it discharges a great deel of mud and red
stones has latterly been high-- at 4 ms. passed large dry Brook a
Lard. low bluff on each side. |
|
45 |
|
July 30, 1806
William Clark
Set out early this morning at 12 miles arived at the Commencement of Shoals
the Chanel on the Stard Side near a high bluff. passed a Succession of those Shoals
for 6 miles the lower of which was quit across the river and appeared to have a decent of
about 3 feet. here we were Compeled to let the Canoes down by hand for fear of their
Strikeing a rock under water and Splitting. This is by far the wost place which I have
Seen on this river from the Rocky mountains to this place a distance of 694
miles by water. a Perogu or large Canoe would with Safty pass through the worst of
those Shoals, which I call the Buffalow Sholes [Buffalow Shoals are just below the
mouth of Sand Creek, "Little dry River" on Clark's map.] from the
Circumstance of one of those animals being in them. the rock which passes the river
at those Sholes appear hard and gritty of a dark brown Colour. the Clifts on the
Stard. Side is about 100 feet in hight, on the Lard Side the Country is low and the bottom
rises gradually back. here is the first appearance of Birnt hills which I have Seen
on this river they are at a distance from the river on the Lard Side. I landed at the
enterance of a dry Creek [Muster Creek near Kinsey; it appears on Clark's map as
"Dry creek."] on the Lard side below the Shoals and took brackfast.
Those Dry Rivers, Creeks &c are like those of the Missouri which take their
rise in and are the Conveyance of the water from those plains. they have the
appearanc of dischargeing emence torrents of water. the late rains which has fallen
in the plains raised Sudenly those Brooks which receive the water of those plains on which
those Suden & heavy Showers of rain must have fallen, Several of which I have Seen
dischargeing those waters, whiles those below heading or takeing their rise in the Same
neighbourhood, as I passed them appears to have latterly been high. those Brrods
discharge emencely of mud also, which Contributes much to the muddiness of the river.
after Brackfast proceeded on the river much narrower than above
from 3 to 400 yards wide only and only a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on
the banks. at 20 miles below the Buffalow Shoals passed a rapid which is by no means
dangerous, it has a number of large rocks in different parts of the river which Causes
high waves a very good Chanel on the Lard. Side. this rapid I call Bear
rapid [Bear Rapid is above the mouth of Custer Creek, MT.] from the
Circumstance of a bears being on a rock in the Middle of this rapid when I arived at it.
a violent Storm from the N.W. obliged us to land imediately below this rapid, draw
up the Canoes and take Shelter in an old Indian Lodge above the enterance of a river which
is nearly dry it has laterly been very high and Spread over nearly 1/4 a mile
in width. its Chanel is 88 yards and in this there is not more water than could pass
through an inch auger hole. I call it Yorks dry R. [Custer Creek.]
after the rain and wind passed over I proceeded on at 7 Miles passed the enterance
of a river [Powder ("War har sah") River.] the water of which
is 100 yds wide, the bead of this river nearly 1/4 of a mile this river is
Shallow and the water very muddy and of the Colour of the banks a darkish brown. I
observe great quantities of red Stone thrown out of this river that from the appearance of
the hills at a distance on its lower Side induced me to call this red Stone river. [NB:
By coincidence I found the Indian name Wa ha Sah] [The Indian
name is "War-rah-sash" probably learned from the Mandans or Hidatsas. Biddle
suggests the translation is "red stone river" but it is closer to a Mandan word
meaning "powder."] as the water was disgreeably muddy I could not
Camp on that Side below its mouth. however I landed at its enteranc and Sent out and
killed two fat Cows, and took as much of the flesh as the Canoes would conveniently Carry
and Crossed the river and encamped at the enterance of a Brook on the Lard. Side under a
large Spredding Cotton tree. [This camp was below and opposite the mouth of Powder
River ("War har sah"), at the mouth of Crooked Creek.] The river
on which we passed to day is not So wide as above containing but fiew islands
with a Small quantity of Cotton timber. no timber of any kind to be Seen on the high
lands on either Side.
Course distance and Remarks 30th July
|
|
M |
N. 32o E. |
to the lower part of a wood in the Stard. Bend
opposit the head of an island near the Lard Side |
2/1/2 |
N. 14o W. |
to a Lard. Bluff passed an island
and 2 bars |
3 |
N. 40o E. |
to the enterance of a dry brook [Jones
Creek just above Tusler. On Clark's map it is unnamed and opposite the mouth of Sunday
Creek ("Big dry River").] in the Stard Bend passed the enterance of a [EC:
Dry] river [Sunday Creek ("Big dry River") and shown
as 125 yards wide on Clark's map.] below the Lard Bluff 100 yards wide nearly dry
at 5 miles on this River there appears to be Some Cotton wood |
6 |
N. 30o W. |
to a tree in the Lard. Bend |
1 3/4 |
N. 60o E. |
to a Bluff in the Stard. Bend pass a
rocky Shoal 2/3 of the river from the lard Side |
1 1/4 |
North |
to 3 trees in the Lard Bend passed a
large dry Creek 60 yards wide on the Stard. side [An unknown stream, unless Clark
meant "larboard", in which case it could be Sand Creek above Buffalo Shoals,
"Little dry River" on Clark's map.] |
1 1/2 |
N. 70o E. |
to the point of a clift on the Stard. Side
opposit to the great Shoal. a dark brow rock quit across passeable |
4 |
N. 45o E. |
to a bush on the Lard point passed a
dry brook [EC: Sand Cr.] on each side. [Muster Creek on
the larboard and Dixon Creek on the starboard. They are"Dry creek 40 yards wide"
and "dry brook," on Clark's map.] a low bluff on the Stard. Side |
3 |
N. 20o E. |
to the head of an island. passed a brook [Deep
Creek.] on the Stard. Side and a low bluff, no wood on either Side |
1 |
N. 10o W. |
to the enterance of a large dry Creek [EC:
Muster Cr.] [Harris Creek west of Shirley.] on the Lard. Side above a
bluff. passed one on the Stard. Side [Hay Creek, opposite and above Harris
Creek.] |
2 1/2 |
N. 70o E. |
to a Brook [Dead Horse Creek, empties
into Buffalo Rapids Ditch.] in the Stard. Bend passed a high
bluff on the Lard. Side for 1/2 a mile |
1 |
North |
to the enterance of a Small dry Creek [Cabin
Creek.] in the Lard Bend near a high bluff |
1 1/2 |
N. 20o E. |
to a large dry brook [EC: Cottonwood]
[Cottonwood Creek, meeting the Yellowstone south of Bonfield.] in a Stard. Bend |
1 1/2 |
N. 5o W. |
to the Center of a Lard. Bend rocks on both
Sides |
2 |
N. 30o E. |
to a Stard. point |
2 |
East |
to a Stard. Bend passed a dry brook [EC:
Wolf Cr (N.)] [Mack Creek on the starboard and unnamed on the larboard.]
on each Side |
2 |
N. 20o E. |
to a hollow in the Stard. Bend
passed a Brook [Williams Creek.] on the Stard. Side. low bluffs [EC:
Devil's Backbone] [A name used at that time for the larboard bluffs.] on
the Lard. Side |
1 1/2 |
North |
to a fiew bushes in a lard. Bend |
1 1/2 |
N. 45o E. |
to a Brook [Camp Creek nearly opposite
the mouth of Custer Creek ("Yorks dry River" on Clark's map.] which
discharges itself on the Stard. Side at white Bear island rapids. not bad |
1 |
N. 45o W. |
to a Bluff in the Lard. Bend, below the
enterance of a dry river [EC: York's] 88 yard Chanel, and when
it is high spreads over nearly 1/4 of a mile in width York |
3/4 |
N. 45o E. |
to a Bluff in the Stard. Bend passed
a bar Std. pt. |
2 1/4 |
North |
to the Center of a Lard. bend low
bluffs on each Side at 3 miles passed redstone river [EC: Powder R.]
on the Stard. Side 100 yards water & near 1/4 of a mile Chanel very muddy; at 4 Miles
encamped at the enterance of a large dry brook on the Lard. |
4 1/2 |
|
Miles |
48 |
In the evening below the enterance of redstone river I
observed great numbers of Buffalow feeding on the plains, elk on the points and antilopes.
I also Saw Some of the Bighorn animals at a distance on the hills. Gibson is now
able to walk, he walked out this evening and killed an antilope.
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