August 03, 1806
Meriwether Lewis
I arrose early this morning and had the perogue and canoes loaded and set out at half
after 6 A.M. we soon passed the canoe of Colter and Collins who were on shore
hunting, the men hailed them but received no answer we proceeded, and shortly after
overtook J. and R. Fields who had killed 25 deer since they left us yesterday; deer are
very abundant in the timbered bottoms of the river and extreemly gentle. we did not
halt today to cook and dine as usual having directed that in future the party should cook
as much meat in the evening after encamping as would be sufficient to serve them the next
day; by this means we forward our journey at least 12 or 15 miles Pr. day. we saw
but few buffaloe in the course of this day, tho' a great number of Elk, deer, wolves, some
bear, beaver, geese a few ducks, the party coloured covus [The Black-billed
Magpie, Pica Pica.], one Callamet Eagle [Golden Eagle, Aquila
chrysaetos.], a number of bald Eagles [Bald Eagle, Haliaeetus
leucocephalus.], red headed woodpeckers &c. we encamped this
evening on the N.E. side of the river 2 ms. above our encampment of the 12th of May 1805. [On
the north side of the Missouri River below the mouth of Cattle Creek. This campsite is
beneath Fort Peck Reservoir.] soon after we encamp Drewyer killed a fat
doe. the Fieldses arrived at dark with the flesh of two fine bucks, besides which
they had killed two does since we passed them making in all 29 deer since yesterday
morning. Collins and Colter did not overtake us this evening.
August 03, 1806
John Ordway
a fair morning. we loaded the canoes and proced. on Soon came
to the Camp of the two Fields they had killed 24 deer. we procd.
on verry well Saw buffaloe in a bundance [Lewis & Gass
report seeing a few buffalo this day.] and Some white bear. we Camped
on N. S. [Below the mouth of Cattle Creek about two miles above the camp of May
12, 1805, now beneath Fort Peck Reservoir.] having made 73 miles this
day.
August 03, 1806
Patrick Gass
We had a fine morning, and at 6 o'clock got under way and proceeded on. Having
gone ten miles we came up with the hunters, who had killed twenty four deer. We went
on very rapidly and saw great gangs of elk feeding on the shores, but few buffaloe. [Ordway
reports seeing buffalo "in a bundance".] At sunset we encamped
having gone 73 miles
August 03, 1806
William Clark
West |
1/4 |
along the Std. Bluff |
North |
1 3/4 |
to the Lowr pat of the Std. Bluff. Comincment of
a large timbered bottom Std Passed an Island |
N. 20o W. |
3 1/2 |
m. to a Lard point passed a Sand bar
on Lard. and one below the Std. pont. bottoms of wood extince |
N. 40o w. |
2 |
miles to a Stard. point passed a
Deep bend to the Stard. an extencve Sand bar from the Lard |
N.W.Point |
1 1/2 |
miles to the Point at the junction of the
Missouri an extence Sand bar opposit on the Std sd |
August 03, 1806
William Clark
last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that no one of the party Slept half the
night. for my part I did not Sleep one hour. those tormenting
insects found their way into My beare and tormented me the whole night. they are not
less noumerous or troublesom this morning. at 2 miles passed the enterance of
Jo. Field's Creek [Charbonneau Creek, ND.] 35 yds wide imediately above a
high bluff which is falling into the river very fast. on the Side of this bluff I
saw Some of the Mountain Bighorn animals. I assended the hill below the Bluff.
the Musquetors were So noumerous that I could not Shute with any Certainty and therefore
Soon returned to the Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw a large
gangue of ewes & yearlins & fawns or lambs of the bighorn, and at a distance alone
I saw a ram. landed and Sent Labeech to kill the ram, which he did kill and brought
him on board. this ram is not near as large as maney I have Seen.
however he is Sufficiently large for a Sample I directed Bratten to Skin him
with his head horns & feet to the Skin and Save all the bones. I have now the
Skin & bone of a Ram and Ewe & a yearlin ram of those big Horn animals. at
8. A.M. I arived at the Junction of the Rochejhone with the Missouri, and formed my Camp
imediately in the point between the two river at which place the party had all encamped
the 26th of April--1805. at landing I observed Sevral Elk feeding on the young
willows in the point among which was a large Buck Elk which I shot & had his flesh
dryed in the Sun for a Store down the river. had the Canoes unloaded and every
article exposed to dry & Sun. Maney of our things were wet, and nearly all the Store
of meat which had been killed above Spoiled. I ordered it to be thrown into the
river. Several Skins are also Spoiled which is a loss, as they are our
principal dependance for Clothes to last us to our homes &c.
Course distance & Remarks Augt. 3rd 1806
West |
along the Stard. Bluff to a point opposit to a
low extencive timbered bottom on the Lard Side |
1/4 |
North |
to the lower part of the Stard. Bluff at the
Commencement of a large timbered bottom. passed an island |
1 3/4 |
N. 20o W. |
to a Lard point passed a large bar
on the Lard Side, and one below the Stard. point bottoms on each Side extenciv &
covered with wood |
3 1/2 |
N. 58o W. |
to the junction of the Rochejhone with the
Missouri, passed a Stard. point at 1 1/2 miles above which there is a deep bend to the
Std. and an extenciv Sand bar from the above Lard. point. also an extencive Sand bar
below the Stard. point |
2 1/2 |
|
Miles |
8 |
The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I struck the River
Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri 837 Miles 636 Miles of this distance I
decended in 2 Small Canoes lashed together in which I had the following Persons. John
Shields, George Gibson, William Bratten, W. Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & child
& my man York. The Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but
fiew obstructions quite into the rocky mountains. and probably <to-head> near it's
source. The Country through which it passes from those Mounts. to its junction is
Generaly fertile rich open plains the upper portion of which is roleing and the high hills
and hill Sides are partially covered with pine and Stoney. The middle portion or from the
enterance of Clarks Fork as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands Contain Some
Scattering pine on the Lard. Side. on the Stard. or S.E. Side is Some hills thickly
Supplied with pine. The lower portion of the river but fiew pines are to be Seen the
Country opens into extencive plains river widens and Contains more islands and bars; of
corse gravel sand and Mud. The Current of this river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2
pr. hour from the rocky Mts. as low as Clarks Fork, at 3 1/2 Miles pr. hour from thence as
low as the Bighorn, at 3-- Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the Tongue river, at 2 3/4
Miles pr. hour from thence as low as Wolf rapid and at 2 1/2 miles pr. hour from thence to
its enterance into the Missouri
The Colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it being of a yellowish
brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a deep drab Colour containing a greater portion
of Mud than the <Missouri> Rochejhone. This delighfull river from indain
information has it's extreem sources with the North river in the Rocky mountains on the
confines of New Mexico. [GM: The North River is the Rio Grande del Norte, whose
sources in Colorado are hundreds of miles southeast of those of the Yellowstone and the
Snake (the southerly branch of Lewis's River) in northwest Wyoming. The Willamette
(Multnomah) heads in western Oregon. Biddle took extra notes on the Yellowstone's sources
in conversation with Clark after the expedition.] it also most probably has it's
westerly sources connected with [NB: those of] the Multnomah and
those the main Southerly branch of Lewis's river while it's Easterly brances head with
those of Clark's R. [Clark's Fork Yellowstone River; See July 24, 1806.]
the bighorn and River Platte and may be said to water the middle portion of the Rocky
Mountains from N W to S.E. for several hundred miles. the indians inform us, that a
good road passes up this river to it's extreem source from whence it is buta short
distance to the Spanish Settlements. [The closest confirmed "Spanish
Settlements" were in New Mexico, considerably farther than Clark was led to believe.]
there is also a considerable fall on this river within the mountains [NB: no]
but at what distance from it's source we never could learn [The Falls of the
Yellowstone are within Yellowstone National Park, south of Livingston, MT. where Clark
first reached the Yellowstone River. It appears that Biddle did not believe "a
considerable fall" existed.] like all other branches of the Missouri which
penetrate the Rocky Mountains all that portion of it lying within those mountains abound
in fine beaver and Otter, it's streams also which issuing from the rocky mountian and
discharging themselves above Clark's fork inclusive also furnish an abundance of beaver
and Otter and possess considerable portions of small timber in their vallies. to an
establishment on this river at clarks Fork the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky
Mountains would willingly resort for the purpose of trade as they would in a great measure
be relived from the fear of being attacked by their enimies the blackfoot Indians and
Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which would most probably happen were they to visit any
establishment which could be conveniently formed on the Missouri. [The Missouri
Fur Company led by Manuel Lisa built Fort Raymond (Fort Lisa, Fort Manuel Lisa) at the
confluence of the Bighorn and Yellowstone Rivers in 1807. This same company attemped
to establish a trading post at the Three Forks of the Missouri in 1810 but was abandoned
after intense hostility from the Blackfeet; See July 28, 1805. In 1831 the American
Fur Company established Fort McKenzie on the Missouri near the mouth of the Marias for the
purpose of trading with the Blackfeet.] I have no doubt but the same regard to
personal safety would also induce many numerous nations inhabiting the Columbia and
Lewis's river West of the mountains to visit this establishment in preference to that at
the entrance of Maria's river, particularly during the first years of those Western
establishments. the Crow Indians, Paunch Indians castahanah's and other East of the
mountains and south of this place would also visit this establishment; it may therefore be
looked to as one of the most important establishments of the westen fur trade. at
the entrance of Clark's fork there is a sufficiency of timber to support an establishment,
an advantage that no position possesses from thence to the Rocky Mountains. The banks of
the yellowstone river a bold not very high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for
a few miles immediately below where the river issues from the mountain. the bed of this
river is almost entirely composed of loose pebble, nor is it's bed interrupted by chains
of rock except in one place and that even furnishes no considerable obstruction to it's
navigation. as you decend with the river from the mountain the pebble become smaller
and the quantity of mud increased untill you reah Tongue river where the pebble ceases and
the sand then increases and predominates near it's mouth. This river can be
navigated to greater advantage in perogues than any other craft yet it possesses suficient
debth of water for battauxs [French bateau, generally larger and heavier
than canoes. The name was generally for describing Keelless, flat-bottomed, plank craft
with each end tapered, commonly forty feet in length. They were more mobile and lighter
than a pirogue.] even to the mountains; nor is there any of those moving sand
bars so formidable to the navigation of many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn R and
Clark's fork may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues and canoes. Tongue river
is also navigable for canoes a considerable distance.
[That section above describing the Yellowstone River and repeated here is in
Lewis's handwriting.] ... to an establishment on this river at clarks Fork
the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains would willingly resort for the
purposes of trade as they would in a great measure be relived from the fear of being
attacked by their enimies the blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which
would most probably happen were they to visit any establishment which could be
conveniently formed on the Missouri. I have no doubt but the same regard to personal
safety would also induce many numerous nations inhabiting the Columbia and Lewis's river
West of the mountains to vist this establishment in preference to that at the entrance of
Maria's river, particularly during the first years of those Western establishments. ... it
may therefore be looked to as one of the most important establishments of the western fur
trade.
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